Auto trans shift computer seals - o-ring (103726) that is NLA... options?

[Jonathan]

http://store.delorean.com/p-8910-o-ring.aspx

The main o-ring seal behind the shift computer box itself is NLA on Houston's page. It's a reasonably big one around 2" in diameter.

What are the options if you wanted to redo that seal to stop or prevent a leak and you don't have a replacement o-ring?

I have not removed my own shifter computer recently and it has been in place for around seven years since it got rebuilt. A mechanic helped me with this project and did the install so I'm not sure if there is an o-ring in there or some sort of sealing goop. I think I may have a bit of ATF coming out of that seal drip by drip and thought I'd go in and fix it properly.

Can you loosen just that portion of the shift computer (and harness) enough to pull it off and redo the seal or does the whole harness need to come out? Is that going to let the majority of the ATF come pouring out or is it high enough up to only lose a little bit of the fluid level? Any other precautions before removing the shift computer, like needing to know what position the gear teeth are in so you can put it back exactly as it came out (is that even a concern for this part)?

Thanks! (10 year anniversary of getting my car today!)

[PJ Grady Inc.]

http://store.delorean.com/p-8910-o-ring.aspx

The main o-ring seal behind the shift computer box itself is NLA on Houston's page. It's a reasonably big one around 2" in diameter.

What are the options if you wanted to redo that seal to stop or prevent a leak and you don't have a replacement o-ring?

I have not removed my own shifter computer recently and it has been in place for around seven years since it got rebuilt. A mechanic helped me with this project and did the install so I'm not sure if there is an o-ring in there or some sort of sealing goop. I think I may have a bit of ATF coming out of that seal drip by drip and thought I'd go in and fix it properly.

Can you loosen just that portion of the shift computer (and harness) enough to pull it off and redo the seal or does the whole harness need to come out? Is that going to let the majority of the ATF come pouring out or is it high enough up to only lose a little bit of the fluid level? Any other precautions before removing the shift computer, like needing to know what position the gear teeth are in so you can put it back exactly as it came out (is that even a concern for this part)?

Thanks! (10 year anniversary of getting my car today!)

We have this oring, as well as entire reseal kits, in stock.
Rob

[David T]

Nothing really special about that seal. You should be able to find a replacement if you look. You can try reusing the old one if it isn't flat or cut up. Use some silicone if you have to. There is no special position for the gear. You can remove and reseal without taking the whole harness out but you may need to get some slack. Make sure the wiring is nowhere near the exhaust pipes where it could get damaged by heat and strap-tied neatly so it doesn't flap around. If you are doing a transmission service you may want a pan gasket and filter too.

[DMC-81]

We have this oring, as well as entire reseal kits, in stock.
Rob

I can vouch for Rob Grady's seal kits as being high quality and complete (at least on a manual). Very satisfied.

I have not removed my own shifter computer recently and it has been in place for around seven years since it got rebuilt. A mechanic helped me with this project and did the install so I'm not sure if there is an o-ring in there or some sort of sealing goop. I think I may have a bit of ATF coming out of that seal drip by drip and thought I'd go in and fix it properly.

Nothing really special about that seal. You should be able to find a replacement if you look. You can try reusing the old one if it isn't flat or cut up. Use some silicone if you have to. There is no special position for the gear. You can remove and reseal without taking the whole harness out but you may need to get some slack. Make sure the wiring is nowhere near the exhaust pipes where it could get damaged by heat and strap-tied neatly so it doesn't flap around. If you are doing a transmission service you may want a pan gasket and filter too.

I wouldn't suggest reusing the old seal or silicone when Jonathan specifically said what is bolded above. I suggest getting the right seal to fix it properly.

[Jonathan]

Thanks guys.

Rob, how much for just this o-ring (on its own)? And what all is in the entire sealing kit and how much does it cost?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Thanks guys.

Rob, how much for just this o-ring (on its own)? And what all is in the entire sealing kit and how much does it cost?

The NOS Oring #103726 is $1.88 A new oblong profile Oring #103726G is $3.23. The NOS kit #103500 $122.60 consists of all the paper and cork gaskets needed for a complete rebuild of the auto trans and differential.
Rob