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Thread: Center Console Removal - Accumulator Access

  1. #11
    Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2016

    Location:  Cardiff

    Posts:    93

    My VIN:    11789

    Quote Originally Posted by WHO1DMC View Post
    Well
    That tray has to come out there are two nuts holding the console on under there. It might become attached to something so if you removed the two screws take a hair dryer or heat gun and warm it up. Because it should just lift right out. Had mine out this spring.

    Dave B.
    Brilliant, thanks Dave.

    I was under the car last night and the accumulator has been bypassed! - it's not in there! It currently sits in the box of bits that came with the car - so it looks like I need a new accumulator - so much money for just a small component.

    I don't know if anybody else has come across the accumulator being by passed?

    Spud
    Currently resurrecting Vin # 11789 - One of the batch of 50 exported to the Middle East in 1982.

  2. #12
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    2,092

    My VIN:    5003 Never placed Concourse

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Removing the console tray most certainly WILL allow you to access the hard lines - I'm guessing this is a little known fact about the car. This cutout helped me greatly save time compared to removal or line work when I did not know about this access. I only learned about this cutout when changing frames-I was cleaning the underbody and I saw it cut out on the underbody as posted below. I thought to myself, damn, I wish I knew about this sooner! This gives you access to the two long holes in the top of the frame, as you can see in your pictures by the bottles of water. You can also see the cover in your picture of the fiberglass-console removed, under the single black plastic line - not sure if that is vac or throttle cable. You can access the lines, break the connections and not kink anything, all without feeling like you're delivering a baby from under the car. You'll still need to go under to unbolt the accumulator, etc. Just remove the tray, pry the access cover up with a screwdriver and seal it back down once work is complete.





    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Removing the centre console will not help you access the fuel accumulator. There is fiberglass and steel (frame) in the way from above. You access it from underneath. The opening is just in front of the automatic transmission fluid pan. That opening is about the size of a DVD case and you are trying to work on something the size of a pop can. This job sucks the big one like few others (IMO).

    See pics:

    Attachment 53931Attachment 53932Attachment 53933Attachment 53934Attachment 53935Attachment 53936Attachment 53937
    Last edited by dn010; 10-12-2017 at 11:29 AM.
    -----Dan B.

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,807

    My VIN:    3937

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    Removing the console tray most certainly WILL allow you to access the hard lines - I'm guessing this is a little known fact about the car. This cutout helped me greatly save time compared to removal or line work when I did not know about this access. I only learned about this cutout when changing frames-I was cleaning the underbody and I saw it cut out on the underbody as posted below. I thought to myself, damn, I wish I knew about this sooner! This gives you access to the two long holes in the top of the frame, as you can see in your pictures by the bottles of water. You can also see the cover in your picture of the fiberglass-console removed, under the single black plastic line - not sure if that is vac or throttle cable. You can access the lines, break the connections and not kink anything, all without feeling like you're delivering a baby from under the car. You'll still need to go under to unbolt the accumulator, etc. Just remove the tray, pry the access cover up with a screwdriver and seal it back down once work is complete.

    Thanks for explaining that Dan. I didn't realize there was some practical access to the fuel accumulator from above. I had assumed since it wasn't enough to get the accumulator in and out through that hole, it wasn't important. I'm glad you chimed in about how to hold on to the hardlines from above, as that is important. I stand corrected. Thanks.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  4. #14
    Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2016

    Location:  Cardiff

    Posts:    93

    My VIN:    11789

    I'm learning guys I'm learning!!

    Thanks ever so much for the contributions to this thread - and at least it's clear that other owners were unaware of this fact?

    On a completely separate issue, I was researching mirror repairs on the net and there was nothing I could see on my particular aspect
    - so if you haven't seen it go here

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...with-pictures)
    Currently resurrecting Vin # 11789 - One of the batch of 50 exported to the Middle East in 1982.

  5. #15
    Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2016

    Location:  Cardiff

    Posts:    93

    My VIN:    11789

    For completeness, in case people are searching for the console removal process it's as follows:-

    • It is held down by 6 bolts.
    • 2 are at he back of the console and are accessed via removal of the coin tray
    • Mine is automatic, and the other 4 bolts are located under the shift plate.
    • remove the auto stick and shift plate
    • Under the shift plate, remove the four bolts, which attach to 2 metal brackets, riveted either side of the console.
    • note that the 2 main wiring looms run within the above 2 metal brackets, be careful when you raise the console up, and just ease them off the brackets
    • raise the console up slightly, and peep underneath - there are many connectors to the switches cigar lighter etc. take pictures and tag them
    • my centre console had some internal damage to the section that mounts the cigar lighter - it's a central (cardboard?) brace that adds rigidity to the whole structure.
    • I made a bracket out of aluminium, made a cut out for the cigar lighter in the aluminium and used gorilla glue to glue it in place - also gluing the bracket that is pop riveted in place onto the cardboard
    • I refitted it (temporarily last night and the console is 10 x better.



    When I get home tonight I'll try and post some pics.
    Currently resurrecting Vin # 11789 - One of the batch of 50 exported to the Middle East in 1982.

  6. #16
    Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2016

    Location:  Cardiff

    Posts:    93

    My VIN:    11789

    Just an update on this.

    I managed to replace the accumulator, and thankfully no damage was done to the hardlines.

    After doing a heap more work on the car, it fired up for the first time and then started first time everytime.

    The oil pressure was good but the oil light was on - this was caused by the oil light sensor having it's "can" stuck inside the oil gallery.

    I tapped it with an M14 tap ready to take an M14 bolt converted to a mini slide hammer. The can came loose as I tapped it and out it came.

    But I'd like to pass on this little "nugget".....

    An old mechanic told me ....
    "When you are wrenching on fuel hardlines that either go to flexible lines, or even if they are joined to another hardline, DO NOT use a spanner in each hand. Use two spanners of the same length, line them up so you can grip them in one hand and squeeze them together - do this to loosen and tighten them"

    I followed his instructions and had no leaks thank goodness!

    I've seen experienced mechanics struggling with both hands and the above tip, although simple enough is often forgotten, yet works really well.
    Currently resurrecting Vin # 11789 - One of the batch of 50 exported to the Middle East in 1982.

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