Engine Turns over, but no start, suspect Fuel Pump

[smcguiga]

OK, so a few months ago on a REALLY hot day everything was just fine and then when I was about to pull into a parking deck, the car just quit. I tried to start it back up but the engine would just turn over and not fire. A few hours later it fired up just fine and ran for another 15-20 minutes and then just died....right in the middle of the road when stopping at a light. Again, a few hours later it fired up just fine and I was able to drive it home. Over the weekend I took it out again, fired up just fine and ran perfectly, until I turned if off to go into a store. Coming back out I had the same problems, however this time, after letting it sit for a few hours, it wouldn't start up. After towing it home and sitting for a few days... it will not start at all. I've gone through various troubleshooting steps and determined that I am not getting any fuel. I jumped the RPM relay, pulled an injector, pressed on the plate, and no gas. I can't hear the fuel pump running.

I put meter from battery + to -B and got 12V
I put meter from battery - to +A and got 12V
I Put meter between A and B and got 12V
So...I AM GETTING POWER.

Looking at the picture, I have labeled the wires.
A=White/Purple, +12 from RPM Relay (Verified 11.99 Volts with key off and RPM jumped)
B=Ground (verified good ground from battery and Continuity to another ground)
C=Ground wire going to filler neck

D,E, and F, plug into the control box for the new fuel pump but what kind of voltage should I be getting here?

Seeing as how I am getting +12 when I meter across A, and B, I appear to be getting power to the pump. Since I have the new pump that was installed by a PO about 8 years ago, which parts do I need here? Surely not the entire kit again? Only 8 years seems kinda short for the pump to have already died.

MyFuelPumpWires.jpg

Thanks for any suggestions or assistance.

--Steven

[David T]

I would suspect a kinked or collapsed fuel pick-up hose. Inspect the fuel tank and the internal components and if the hose is soft replace it or put a spring in it. If you have the new style fuel pump there is no hose but maybe the fuel pump is bad and is not running. You should be able to hear the pump when it is running (or not!). From the picture it appears you DO have the newer style so listen for the pump when you apply power to it.

[smcguiga]

So I pulled the pump/sender out of the tank and put 12 volts straight to the pump and getting nothing. So it looks like I need to replace it. From what I can tell you have to purchase the whole kit from DMC for $419. Does anyone have experience with the fuel pump system from SpecialT/DeloreanAutoParts? This looks to be the same setup as the one from DMC. I'm trying to get an idea on the best replacement.

Thanks!

--Steven

[David T]

Call DMCH and see if there is any warranty. They may sell parts and not make you buy the whole assembly.

[smcguiga]

Got the new fuel pump from DMCH along with the hoses and pliers to put the hoses on (boy is that a fun experience). Now the car fires right up but the Fuel Gauge stopped working. I points straight up and then when I turn the key on, after a few seconds it goes to Empty, then as soon as I start the car it goes straight up again. I opened the tank to be able to see the float and pressed it down with a dowel and the empty light comes on but the gauge never moves. Before I put the combo unit back in, everything looked to be connected just fine. If I disconnect the three wire plug, the gauge never goes to empty when I start the car. So with it connected something is getting to the gauge to tell it to go to empty but then immediately its going to 12 oclock after starting the car.

What am I missing here?

Thanks!

--Steven