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Thread: That smoke looks cool.... WAIT!

  1. #1
    Senior Member Nuclearbacon's Avatar
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    That smoke looks cool.... WAIT!

    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Most importantly, the car is fine and no fire. (deep breath of relief)

    I was literally a mile away from home after a 250+ mile drive (the furthest I've gone in years) when my lovely girlfriend says that exact quote:

    "That smoke looks really cool how the sun is.... WAIT!"

    I look behind her and I see the smallest tuft of white smoke and I smell a popcorn type smell. I turn off my radio (the only electronics I recently installed) and it does not change. I turn the car off at the stop light. smoke stops. Fire it up and race home but the smoke had basically stopped. I get home safe.

    Before I tell you what I find, let me tell you of another weird thing that I believe are pieces to this puzzle.

    The drive was in the middle of the day, but I drive over the Santa Cruz Mountains and it's semi dark and I use headlights for safety, right? (headlights were only used on the 20 mile stretch of the SC mountains)

    When I was coming home over the same mountain, it was high 70's outside, but not hot. I had my headlights on and after about 10 minutes or so (maybe less) I needed to go into the right hand lane, so I use my blinker, but my dash blinker light wasn't coming on. I can see the turn signal in the reflection of the car in front of me so they're working, but my dash light isn't. Ok I think, new bulb, no worries. (it functioned all day before failing the first time)

    At one point I turn my headlights off (at the summit, where its bright) and I had just been using turn signals as usual knowing they functioned (left turn signal light never failed), but then my turn signal dash light came back! Weird!

    Going back to the night before, we took a little drive (headlights on) and I thought I smelled popcorn. We had also had a rainstorm recently and I thought it was something that had gotten wet but was now drying with a weird smell, who knows. So when I smelled it before I saw the smoke, I figured it was a reoccurring smell, but not an issue, but I was still ever mindful of my cars vital systems.

    Back to current time, I get the car home safe and pull the rear passenger electrical wood cover off, and instantly I can smell the popcorn. I poke around and my fan fail fix wires had melted together and almost shorted. The smell was the wires getting hot and melting! (see below for pictures)

    Both my fans were working, I have not added anything besides my radio, and I am using the radio circuit (green wire behind the Craig radio), I don't think it has anything to do with my radio.

    It seems to have been when my headlights were on and the fans kicked on. The fan fail wires were tucked back and over themselves in a tight configuration, but they shouldn't have melted...right??

    Now my amazing DeLorean detectives, has something failed? Was my electrical overloaded somehow? Did my wires...fail? old?

    Both fans functioned and always have. The electrical was "revamped" in 2011 with new relays, but nothing has been touched otherwise. Car is factory. I leave my fuse cover on my fuses, but I've heard to remove it. None of my fuses or sockets look melted

    To recap, my main points are:

    -Only happened when headlights were on
    -Only happened when fans were running
    -Right turn signal bulb not functioning then functioning? (possibly after fans turned back off?)
    -Right turn signal bulb non functioning when headlights were on

    Would Dave's Solid-State Fan Relay help with the heat? Is there always a large amount of heat and it finally got too hot? (I know it gets warm but!)

    Slightly worried but also curious!

    Thank you for reading!



    -Luigi-
    Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!

    1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81

  2. #2
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    That pin on the fan fail jumpers carries the current of both fans. It could have been a bad connection but I've seen so many of those jumpers fail when your still running OEM fans. I don't think your headlights had anything to do with the jumper burning.

    Your socket may also have melting damage.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #3
    Senior Member Nuclearbacon's Avatar
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    Dave! Ok! Since I'm here, what is the best replacement for my situation? Bigger gauge wire? Your Solid state Fan Relay?

    I do have OEM fans
    -Luigi-
    Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!

    1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81

  4. #4
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    I would verify what amperage those fans are pulling before you troubleshoot any further.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nuclearbacon View Post
    Dave! Ok! Since I'm here, what is the best replacement for my situation? Bigger gauge wire? Your Solid state Fan Relay?

    I do have OEM fans

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmcnc View Post
    I would verify what amperage those fans are pulling before you troubleshoot any further.
    Yes check the fan voltage if you can but be aware the fan fail link link was never intended as a permanent fix.
    They need to be inspected annually at least-especially before the summer season. A loose or deteriated connection here will always cause a meltdown over time. This was one of the issues that the Fanzilla module developed in the 90's addressed and solved with better connections and even teflon coated wires. The other was sequencing the fans and compressor engagement into three separate events to reduce voltage spikes. They were almost bulletproof. No need for wimpy fan fail links back then.
    Rob

  6. #6
    Senior Member Nuclearbacon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    Yes check the fan voltage if you can but be aware the fan fail link link was never intended as a permanent fix.
    They need to be inspected annually at least-especially before the summer season. A loose or deteriated connection here will always cause a meltdown over time. This was one of the issues that the Fanzilla module developed in the 90's addressed and solved with better connections and even teflon coated wires. The other was sequencing the fans and compressor engagement into three separate events to reduce voltage spikes. They were almost bulletproof. No need for wimpy fan fail links back then.
    Rob
    That sounds great! I would love to pick one of these up! If these are not available what can I do instead? Just make good quality fail link and check it regularly? If that's the fix... but not a fix... ?
    -Luigi-
    Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!

    1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81

  7. #7
    Senior Member Chris 16409's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nuclearbacon View Post
    That sounds great! I would love to pick one of these up! If these are not available what can I do instead? Just make good quality fail link and check it regularly? If that's the fix... but not a fix... ?
    I would get Dave's solid state fan and fan fail relays. They are the modern fix for the original wiring. Getting new fans wouldn't hurt either. Most vendors sell low current fans, Toby, Josh, Hervey, etc.
    Chris Miles

    For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
    1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California

  8. #8
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nuclearbacon View Post
    Dave! Ok! Since I'm here, what is the best replacement for my situation? Bigger gauge wire? Your Solid state Fan Relay?

    I do have OEM fans
    You can check the current but I would bet you will read around 15 amps each when the engine is running. You would need a clamp on type DC amp meter. So as Rob said, that pin connection has to be very good with 30 amps of fan current.

    I always recommend getting a vendors lower power fans which about drops the current in half.

    Larger wire will just increase the currents because it provides less voltage drop.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #9
    Senior Member Nuclearbacon's Avatar
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    Ok. So the fix is to get low draw fans, even though mine cool very well, they draw too much and need to go.

    Then I should get Daves solid state fan relay.

    Until then, I will check out my socket and make sure it is not melted and make a new fan fail link.

    I wonder if getting a new strong battery like I did recently stressed a weak link? IE: melty melty?
    -Luigi-
    Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!

    1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81

  10. #10
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jennietodd141 View Post
    Many thanks for your input.
    In soviet Russia, thanks input you!
    Dave

    Here, somewhere.


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