SpecialTAuto New Battery Ground Cables

[1batt4u]

Is it ok to put a S/S bolt there, since the battery cable will be bolted on there?

[EdR5150]

If it were me, I would use steel (not stainless) since it'a a better conductor. Plated steel would be best to avoid corrosion. If that new cable grounds in two spots instead of this one spot, that maybe stainless is ok. Either way, use some anti seize.

[1batt4u]

How to get the rubber piece on the body after new wire installed? An easier way to get it on?

[1batt4u]

Anyone know how to remove the snapped bolt??

Was fighting all day, but nothing!!

REALLY need help with this!!!

[DeLorean03]

Hey everyone,

Sorry to bring up old threads, but I created a quick (and shaky) video of what I did to install the cables. I'll take some photos for reference so everyone can clearly see what I did. Enjoy!

http://youtu.be/O82Mn2jhyRs

[Domi]

Nice video, thanks for sharing

[sdg3205]

Would there be any benefit to running a ground from the alternator bolt to the transmission bolt (where it meets the cable from the battery) then on to the frame as usual? Just curious. Perhaps the stock ground from the block to the lower cross member is enough for back there, but I've heard that bolt can corrode or get dirty over time and build resistance.

[Kenny_Z]

I run a cable from the alternator's (GM alternator) ground to the engine block side of the engine to frame connection. Probably not needed but I had an extra cable so I figured it couldn't hurt.

[DeLorean03]

I will admit, since I did this - my car takes....man...maybe 0.5 a second to crank now. It is nearly instantaneous. My car has always cranked fast, strong, and well - but now - it almost seems like it has more power when the engine turns over - like it's not so hard on the battery now. Definitely worth taking the time to do, and it's not so bad if you do the same setup I did (as an auto trans owner). Thanks again, Kenny, for the help!

Would there be any benefit to running a ground from the alternator bolt to the transmission bolt (where it meets the cable from the battery) then on to the frame as usual? Just curious. Perhaps the stock ground from the block to the lower cross member is enough for back there, but I've heard that bolt can corrode or get dirty over time and build resistance.

Kenny actually suggested something similar to this before I installed the wire end on my exhaust bracket. I was considering installing the cable end on the alternator's pivoting bolt - the one that connects the top of the alternator to the rest of the engine block (for me, it is a 17 mm). I didn't really want to go through the trouble of doing a job with a socket and a wrench - one in each hand and cranking down on the grounding wire there - so I opted for the exhaust bracket.

Although, if you did install a ground there at the laternator pivoting bracket, you'd never "wonder" if your alternator had a good ground ever again.

[chris williams]

Another thumbs up for this product, just installed it (TAB's trailing arms Etc Out) so not to bad a job. Before I had to rev the car a bit to get the voltmeter to read above 11v now reads 13+ volt from initial start up rather than having to 'blip' the throttle. So must be an improvement somewhere!
Chris