Not this $#!* again! (Coolant leak at rear of engine)

[DaraSue]

After greasing the spring on the microswitch lever it's now idling pretty consistently around 1200. Something else I discovered while playing around with it this morning was that if I opened the throttle slowly by hand while idling, it would stick at around 1700 but if I snapped it fast it would drop back down around 1000. The lever seems to be sitting where it should be when the engine is off which I assume is why it will idle below 1000 when I first start up. So I guess I'm still looking for something between the spool and the switch? Or is it time to adjust the screws? Something else I noticed while driving around, if the RPM was below 1000 because I was slowing down, it would go up above 1000 when I put the clutch in to stop.

I may have to pick this back up in the spring because it's supposed to snow on Monday and rain tomorrow, but I put about 40 miles on it just driving around in circles today and I'm down to a little over 1/4 tank so by the time I get home from work I should be pretty well set to park it for a couple months if I have to...

[DMC5180]

Try shortening the rod end linkage 2-3 turns. If that doesn’t do it, adjust the micro-switch screw in a couple turns.

[DMC-81]

^ Additionally, how free is your throttle cable? I wonder if perhaps the cold temperatures are causing a little bit of water in the sheath to freeze and make it stick.

[DaraSue]

Try shortening the rod end linkage 2-3 turns. If that doesn’t do it, adjust the micro-switch screw in a couple turns.

I think that did the trick. I took it out for a spin and it stayed comfortably below 1000. 20171203_101850.jpg Maybe still a smidge high, but I can live with it. I don't spend a ton of time in stop and go traffic anyway.

^ Additionally, how free is your throttle cable? I wonder if perhaps the cold temperatures are causing a little bit of water in the sheath to freeze and make it stick.

What other symptoms would I see if that were the case? It seems pretty normal when I'm actually driving.

[DMC5180]

I think that did the trick. I took it out for a spin and it stayed comfortably below 1000. 20171203_101850.jpg Maybe still a smidge high, but I can live with it. I don't spend a ton of time in stop and go traffic anyway.



What other symptoms would I see if that were the case? It seems pretty normal when I'm actually driving.

If the cable were to freeze, you would know it. The pedal wouldn’t move or you would have stiff pedal when applying initial pressure that suddenly releases.

I think in your case, you disrupted the configuration when removed all of the components to access to VOD. Reassembly was not exactly in the original positions.

You said, idles below 1000. It should be 775 +\- 25 unless the guys at one the service shops tweaked it up a little. What are you actually seeing?

[dn010]

I thought I read somewhere earlier saying you obtained an inspection camera / bore scope - you should use it to confirm you have the pipe of agony installed and sealed correctly, very easy for that washer to pop out of the intake and the o-ring to get crunched. Silicone spray is your friend when installing that pipe. Odd question but how did it feel when you installed the pipe into the intake? If it went right in with no resistance maybe it is damaged and that is why it had tape on it - and now you've got a vacuum leak causing your increased RPM at idle.

[DMC5180]

At the end of the day, You took on the challenge of going into the VOD to fix the problem yourself. THAT IMO is totally awesome

You go girl

[David T]

Try shortening the rod end linkage 2-3 turns. If that doesn’t do it, adjust the micro-switch screw in a couple turns.

That was my suggestion back at post #79!

[DaraSue]

If the cable were to freeze, you would know it. The pedal wouldn’t move or you would have stiff pedal when applying initial pressure that suddenly releases.

I think in your case, you disrupted the configuration when removed all of the components to access to VOD. Reassembly was not exactly in the original positions.

You said, idles below 1000. It should be 775 +\- 25 unless the guys at one the service shops tweaked it up a little. What are you actually seeing?

The pic of the gauge that I posted above is about where it sits at a warm idle. It fluctuates a little bit but it stays below 1000 now.

I thought I read somewhere earlier saying you obtained an inspection camera / bore scope - you should use it to confirm you have the pipe of agony installed and sealed correctly, very easy for that washer to pop out of the intake and the o-ring to get crunched. Silicone spray is your friend when installing that pipe. Odd question but how did it feel when you installed the pipe into the intake? If it went right in with no resistance maybe it is damaged and that is why it had tape on it - and now you've got a vacuum leak causing your increased RPM at idle.

This pic isn't from today but I took it after reinstallation. 20171129_185123.jpg I did notice when I took it out originally that it came out very easily. I thought it went in pretty easily unless it's not actually in all the way but I had to stick the borescope in and nudge it around to even see where it was going. I take it that it should have taken more effort to get it stuck in there?

At the end of the day, You took on the challenge of going into the VOD to fix the problem yourself. THAT IMO is totally awesome

You go girl

It was definitely a learning experience. Our own opethmike who wrote the how-to said he could do it in 45 minutes but it took me like a day on either side. Hopefully the next time will be faster now that I have a slightly better idea what not to do. Good practice if I ever need to do it in a Motel 6 parking lot in Nebraska, LOL.

That was my suggestion back at post #79!

I actually did try adjusting the rod yesterday but I guess the problem was actually that the spring was sticky and I needed to adjust it back again to get it in the ballpark? Maybe I need to keep fine tuning it (in the springtime).

It was 55 and partly sunny this morning so I got to take it out for one last cruise, at least. I'm down to about 2 needlewidths above empty so at least now I don't have 3/4 tank sitting there getting sludgy for the next couple months.

20171203_100523.jpg

[opethmike]

Hello! I'm very glad that my guide continues to be useful. It could stand to be refined, but I am happy that it has helped several people. True, I can do it in < 45 minutes nowadays, but the first time took me a whole day too.

It's a very good project to do as one of your first bigger tasks. You should be proud of yourself, diving this deep can be intimidating, and you did just fine. Some small things at the end, but it sounds like you've overcome the problems.

Congratulations! Next up, LS swap!