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Thread: Not this $#!* again! (Coolant leak at rear of engine)

  1. #101
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
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    After greasing the spring on the microswitch lever it's now idling pretty consistently around 1200. Something else I discovered while playing around with it this morning was that if I opened the throttle slowly by hand while idling, it would stick at around 1700 but if I snapped it fast it would drop back down around 1000. The lever seems to be sitting where it should be when the engine is off which I assume is why it will idle below 1000 when I first start up. So I guess I'm still looking for something between the spool and the switch? Or is it time to adjust the screws? Something else I noticed while driving around, if the RPM was below 1000 because I was slowing down, it would go up above 1000 when I put the clutch in to stop.

    I may have to pick this back up in the spring because it's supposed to snow on Monday and rain tomorrow, but I put about 40 miles on it just driving around in circles today and I'm down to a little over 1/4 tank so by the time I get home from work I should be pretty well set to park it for a couple months if I have to...

  2. #102
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Try shortening the rod end linkage 2-3 turns. If that doesn’t do it, adjust the micro-switch screw in a couple turns.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  3. #103
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    ^ Additionally, how free is your throttle cable? I wonder if perhaps the cold temperatures are causing a little bit of water in the sheath to freeze and make it stick.
    Dana

    Delorean status: CECF 2017 Platinum Award winner. Still tinkering...

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  4. #104
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Try shortening the rod end linkage 2-3 turns. If that doesn’t do it, adjust the micro-switch screw in a couple turns.
    I think that did the trick. I took it out for a spin and it stayed comfortably below 1000. 20171203_101850.jpg Maybe still a smidge high, but I can live with it. I don't spend a ton of time in stop and go traffic anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    ^ Additionally, how free is your throttle cable? I wonder if perhaps the cold temperatures are causing a little bit of water in the sheath to freeze and make it stick.
    What other symptoms would I see if that were the case? It seems pretty normal when I'm actually driving.

  5. #105
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Not this $#!* again! (Coolant leak at rear of engine)

    Quote Originally Posted by DaraSue View Post
    I think that did the trick. I took it out for a spin and it stayed comfortably below 1000. 20171203_101850.jpg Maybe still a smidge high, but I can live with it. I don't spend a ton of time in stop and go traffic anyway.



    What other symptoms would I see if that were the case? It seems pretty normal when I'm actually driving.
    If the cable were to freeze, you would know it. The pedal wouldn’t move or you would have stiff pedal when applying initial pressure that suddenly releases.

    I think in your case, you disrupted the configuration when removed all of the components to access to VOD. Reassembly was not exactly in the original positions.

    You said, idles below 1000. It should be 775 +\- 25 unless the guys at one the service shops tweaked it up a little. What are you actually seeing?
    Last edited by DMC5180; 12-03-2017 at 02:19 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #106
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    I thought I read somewhere earlier saying you obtained an inspection camera / bore scope - you should use it to confirm you have the pipe of agony installed and sealed correctly, very easy for that washer to pop out of the intake and the o-ring to get crunched. Silicone spray is your friend when installing that pipe. Odd question but how did it feel when you installed the pipe into the intake? If it went right in with no resistance maybe it is damaged and that is why it had tape on it - and now you've got a vacuum leak causing your increased RPM at idle.
    Last edited by dn010; 12-03-2017 at 02:46 PM.
    -----Dan B.

  7. #107
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    At the end of the day, You took on the challenge of going into the VOD to fix the problem yourself. THAT IMO is totally awesome

    You go girl
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  8. #108
    Delorean Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Try shortening the rod end linkage 2-3 turns. If that doesn’t do it, adjust the micro-switch screw in a couple turns.
    That was my suggestion back at post #79!
    David Teitelbaum

  9. #109
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2016

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    If the cable were to freeze, you would know it. The pedal wouldn’t move or you would have stiff pedal when applying initial pressure that suddenly releases.

    I think in your case, you disrupted the configuration when removed all of the components to access to VOD. Reassembly was not exactly in the original positions.

    You said, idles below 1000. It should be 775 +\- 25 unless the guys at one the service shops tweaked it up a little. What are you actually seeing?
    The pic of the gauge that I posted above is about where it sits at a warm idle. It fluctuates a little bit but it stays below 1000 now.

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    I thought I read somewhere earlier saying you obtained an inspection camera / bore scope - you should use it to confirm you have the pipe of agony installed and sealed correctly, very easy for that washer to pop out of the intake and the o-ring to get crunched. Silicone spray is your friend when installing that pipe. Odd question but how did it feel when you installed the pipe into the intake? If it went right in with no resistance maybe it is damaged and that is why it had tape on it - and now you've got a vacuum leak causing your increased RPM at idle.
    This pic isn't from today but I took it after reinstallation. 20171129_185123.jpg I did notice when I took it out originally that it came out very easily. I thought it went in pretty easily unless it's not actually in all the way but I had to stick the borescope in and nudge it around to even see where it was going. I take it that it should have taken more effort to get it stuck in there?

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    At the end of the day, You took on the challenge of going into the VOD to fix the problem yourself. THAT IMO is totally awesome

    You go girl

    It was definitely a learning experience. Our own opethmike who wrote the how-to said he could do it in 45 minutes but it took me like a day on either side. Hopefully the next time will be faster now that I have a slightly better idea what not to do. Good practice if I ever need to do it in a Motel 6 parking lot in Nebraska, LOL.

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    That was my suggestion back at post #79!
    I actually did try adjusting the rod yesterday but I guess the problem was actually that the spring was sticky and I needed to adjust it back again to get it in the ballpark? Maybe I need to keep fine tuning it (in the springtime).

    It was 55 and partly sunny this morning so I got to take it out for one last cruise, at least. I'm down to about 2 needlewidths above empty so at least now I don't have 3/4 tank sitting there getting sludgy for the next couple months.

    20171203_100523.jpg

  10. #110
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Hello! I'm very glad that my guide continues to be useful. It could stand to be refined, but I am happy that it has helped several people. True, I can do it in < 45 minutes nowadays, but the first time took me a whole day too.

    It's a very good project to do as one of your first bigger tasks. You should be proud of yourself, diving this deep can be intimidating, and you did just fine. Some small things at the end, but it sounds like you've overcome the problems.

    Congratulations! Next up, LS swap!
    -Mike
    1981 DeLorean, heads/cams/exhaust, EFI
    1999 Corvette, heads/cam/exhaust, 440 BHP
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

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