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Thread: Outer Drive Shaft hub

  1. #1
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Outer Drive Shaft hub

    What socket size it the outer drive shaft hub (the one that requires 270 ft/lbs). I need to have that socket and an extension for my 3/4 torque wrench on hand.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  2. #2
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    What socket size it the outer drive shaft hub (the one that requires 270 ft/lbs). I need to have that socket and an extension for my 3/4 torque wrench on hand.
    My understanding is it could be 32mm or 36mm, both were used. The book says 32mm in the torque spec section.

    You could remove the center cap from the wheel and then you'll see the nut. If you don't have either 32mm or 36mm sockets, try a 1 1/4" socket. If that's about the right size then you have a 32mm nut.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

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  3. #3
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    My understanding is it could be 32mm or 36mm, both were used. The book says 32mm in the torque spec section.

    You could remove the center cap from the wheel and then you'll see the nut. If you don't have either 32mm or 36mm sockets, try a 1 1/4" socket. If that's about the right size then you have a 32mm nut.
    Thanks. Stopped in Harbor Freight and they don't have much for 3/4" drive unless you what to buy a full set. I just picked up a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter and a 32 mm 1/2" drive impact socket. You would need 3/4" to get a 36 mm socket. I would think 1/2" drive can take 270 ft/lbs.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #4
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Yeah my torque wrench doesn't go up that high so the last time I went in for an alignment I had them check the nuts for me. They had a nice big torque wrench and it was 1/2" drive.

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    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  5. #5
    Senior Member r00b's Avatar
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    I use a long breaker bar, one for tractors, with a bath scale. Torque = force X length of the lever arm.

  6. #6
    Senior Member r00b's Avatar
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    Here's the bar I use https://www.northerntool.com/product...-67330-2567330
    You can use any kind of scale with it, you just need to know the force you are applying how far from the middle of the socket.

    It's also useful for adjusting the torsion bars.
    Last edited by r00b; 03-05-2024 at 01:51 PM.

  7. #7
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    I believe the fronts could be 32 or 36, but the rears were always 32mm, or 1-1/4"

    I usually get it decently tight while the wheel is off and the car is in the air. Give it a little hit with the impact but nothing crazy.
    Then i pop out the center cap, bolt the wheel back on, put the car on the ground, put it in gear and handbrake on. Then set the torque wrench to 250ft lbs and tighten it to 270.
    Most 1/2" torque wrenches only go to 250, but mine reads higher. With a mechanical one you could also just go to 250 then give it a "little more" with your calculated elbow.

    The drivers size rear hub nut is prone to loosening as it is tightened the opposite way the wheel spins. For this reason i would never suggest reusing the stock stover lock nuts. They are a distorted hex and relax over time losing their "bite".
    I have had very good luck with these nuts from mcmaster carr, initially suggested by Josh at DPI. I am extra paranoid so i give them a little red loc tite as well.

    https://www.mcmaster.com/93520A217/

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