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Thread: Crank pulley nut removal during engine part out

  1. #1
    Not a DeLorean Guru
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    Crank pulley nut removal during engine part out

    I am presently parting out my old PRV as I am putting an LS into my car. I've dealt with some pretty stuck on crank pulley nuts on all sorts of cars, including DeLoreans, but nothing so diabolical as this.

    My 1,200 lb/ft impact wrench won't budge it. I bent a six foot breaker bar cranking on it. I've tried both said impact and breaker bar after MAP gas torching the nut for several minutes, but still to no avail.

    Any suggestions for getting this thing off of here?
    -Mike
    1981 DeLorean, heads/cams/exhaust, EFI
    1999 Corvette, heads/cam/exhaust, 440 BHP
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  2. #2
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
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    longer breaker bar!

  3. #3
    Not a DeLorean Guru
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    ...that's what she said?
    -Mike
    1981 DeLorean, heads/cams/exhaust, EFI
    1999 Corvette, heads/cam/exhaust, 440 BHP
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    longer breaker bar!
    I wedged a screwdriver into the flywheel to keep the engine from rotating while I used a 6' pipe on the end of my wrench to force off the main pulley nut. I actually bent my flywheel before I got the nut off. Just a warning about using a bigger breaker bar.

    I did not try heat at first, because I thought I'd damage the gaskets or something because I forgot how good of a heat sink the metal would be. I tediously cut off the nut with a Dremel and a series of cutting discs, finally got bored, hit it with a MAP torch, at which pint it spun right off. I did put some cuts on the threads of the shaft, but nothing that compromises how well a new nut holds the pulley in place. But opethmike already tried heat, so I'm not sure what to suggest. I'd leave cutting as a last resort.


    On an unrelated note (and not to sidetrack the thread), I'm probably going to be bothering both of you in the coming weeks about EFI conversions, as I finally plan to turn the key on my 3.0L PRV/Megasquirt/EDIS conversion on Saturday. I think I have everything set up properly... I'll start a thread once I start having problems.

    -- Joe

  5. #5
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Try to hit it with more heat, longer duration.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    -----Dan B.

  6. #6
    Delorean Guru
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    A big part of getting that nut loose is to hold the crankshaft VERY solidly. if you don't have the special tool that locks the flywheel with a section of teeth you need to make one. Then the shock of an impact wrench will not get absorbed by something holding the flywheel and flexing. A longer breaker bar doesn't apply the shock necessary to break that nut loose.
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #7
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post

    On an unrelated note (and not to sidetrack the thread), I'm probably going to be bothering both of you in the coming weeks about EFI conversions, as I finally plan to turn the key on my 3.0L PRV/Megasquirt/EDIS conversion on Saturday. I think I have everything set up properly... I'll start a thread once I start having problems.

    -- Joe
    I look forward to it!

  8. #8
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
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    I also had lots of issues with my pulley nut. 3/4" drive vreaker bar with 5ft extention. Also used a mapp gas torch. It was a full hour ordeal.

  9. #9
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
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    The key is to only ever torque it finger tight to begin with.
    Dave

    Here, somewhere.


  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    "Finger Tight"

    Quote Originally Posted by sdg3205 View Post
    The key is to only ever torque it finger tight to begin with.
    Correct the manual says torque to finger tight....then "Torque to 135# with Loctite"!
    Rob

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