Idle Speed RPM Issue - Video Attached

[Jonathan]

The AC bump wire goes to the pink wire available on a diode in the relay compartment. That pink wire runs to the AC compressor clutch. Yes that is the blue wire from my idle ECU.

You do not cut the WOT wire unless you don't want your WOT to enrich the engine at full throttle.

Yes you need to let it learn so it optimize when your foot comes off the gas. That is the only thing it learns so you can test the idle first and let it learn later if you want. The RPM set change makes those learned tables change a little. It learns when you have a stable idle so the hot engine will learn that temp always. You do the cold start to warm engine idle so it learns all the engine temps even though you may never need those temps optimized.

It should not matter if your car is an auto or manual.

It shouldn't.

It does mean there are two WOT microswitches though and the potential for the connectors to be crossed up or otherwise inadvertently telling the engine to add extra fuel when it shouldn't be.

[dn010]

Probably not related but when how old is your AC system? I had a tired compressor that would cause the engine to really struggle when it was on / idle.

[DeLorean937]

The AC bump wire goes to the pink wire available on a diode in the relay compartment. That pink wire runs to the AC compressor clutch. Yes that is the blue wire from my idle ECU.

You do not cut the WOT wire unless you don't want your WOT to enrich the engine at full throttle.

Yes you need to let it learn so it optimize when your foot comes off the gas. That is the only thing it learns so you can test the idle first and let it learn later if you want. The RPM set change makes those learned tables change a little. It learns when you have a stable idle so the hot engine will learn that temp always. You do the cold start to warm engine idle so it learns all the engine temps even though you may never need those temps optimized.

It should not matter if your car is an auto or manual.

Ok this is all great thank you. I had the blue wire from your box hooked into a 12V source. I hope this didn't hurt anything inside the unit as I was confused on the instructions via the site. I will run it to the diode found in the relay compartment I will just have to find a wiring diagram to show where it is.

Also compressor is a new unit and correctly filled with refrigerant. Should I get the Lambda system working first or just try to get everything set in open loop first with the RPM system? Will report back with results.

[DeLorean937]

It shouldn't.

It does mean there are two WOT microswitches though and the potential for the connectors to be crossed up or otherwise inadvertently telling the engine to add extra fuel when it shouldn't be.

Ok sounds great. I have the plug plugged in for the WOT micro switches and kick down I think they fit together one way? I remember pressing the switches in and the idle seem like it climbs and gets richer.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ok this is all great thank you. I had the blue wire from your box hooked into a 12V source. I hope this didn't hurt anything inside the unit as I was confused on the instructions via the site. I will run it to the diode found in the relay compartment I will just have to find a wiring diagram to show where it is.

Also compressor is a new unit and correctly filled with refrigerant. Should I get the Lambda system working first or just try to get everything set in open loop first with the RPM system? Will report back with results.

That did not hurt anything. It would have set the idle 100 RPM higher than what you had set on the DIP switch. You have two diodes in the harness on the right side of your relay compartment (looking down at it). One of those diodes has a pink wire which is where you want to tap into with my blue wire.

You don't have to get the lambda working first unless your mixture is way rich or lean.

[DeLorean937]

That did not hurt anything. It would have set the idle 100 RPM higher than what you had set on the DIP switch. You have two diodes in the harness on the right side of your relay compartment (looking down at it). One of those diodes has a pink wire which is where you want to tap into with my blue wire.

You don't have to get the lambda working first unless your mixture is way rich or lean.

Update:

So I found reconnected the ground wire off the harness that I found that it displays the still the same conditions. I got the car to idle without the idle fluctuation by running it way lean. I looked at the WOT switch and they are connected properly and not stuck thinking that it might be stuck adding extra fuel making it run rich. I did not reconnect the idle bump wire as the car started fluctuation again while it was connected. All in all it seems like when I enriched the mixture the issue starts and that's while running open loop to cure it I have to lean it out. I will cold start today and report back.