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Thread: 3.0L MegaSquirt w/ EDIS, starts and idles... what next?

  1. #51
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
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    It would work the same series or parallel so long as the same cylinders are paired together. It is hardwired, so if there is an error in the firing order you cannot simply swap around plug wires. It does not take much power to drive the coils.

    Its looking like this is a tuning issue, the engine is running lean.

    I will get you the tune file tonight, but it will require work for the bigger injectors. For simplicity's sake if you have the original injectors that were in the lost package, I would use them. The tune will need adjustments still though.
    Last edited by Josh; 12-05-2017 at 07:09 PM.

  2. #52
    Senior Member
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    Thanks. Iím sure I have the 19 lb injectors around somewhere... Iím willing to go through the tuning process from scratch, just to learn it and understand the conditions that require tuning which properties, but Iím also curious how your tune works with my engine, and to be able to compare the two. And I might just be lazy and use your tune and then auto-tune on top of that anyway.

    ó Joe

  3. #53
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    Thanks. Iím sure I have the 19 lb injectors around somewhere... Iím willing to go through the tuning process from scratch, just to learn it and understand the conditions that require tuning which properties, but Iím also curious how your tune works with my engine, and to be able to compare the two. And I might just be lazy and use your tune and then auto-tune on top of that anyway.

    ó Joe
    Honestly that will probably get you 90% of the way there. Check your email, I sent you the tune.

  4. #54
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
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    Which injectors do you have in there now?
    New & Improved V3 S/S Alternator Tensioning Bracket - $39.99
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  5. #55
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drive Stainless View Post
    Which injectors do you have in there now?
    the tune was based on 19s, he has 21s (ford pink tops)

  6. #56
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    the tune was based on 19s, he has 21s (ford pink tops)
    Ah, OK. I am using 24s currently.
    New & Improved V3 S/S Alternator Tensioning Bracket - $39.99
    New & Used DeLorean Parts on eBay HERE.
    S/S Upper Alternator Bracket for Saturn/Autozone Alternator - $39.99
    QA1 Coil-Over Suspension Kit - Complete Kit - $1,149.99 w/ FREE SHIPPING
    QA1 "DIY" Coil-Over Suspension Kit - $99.99
    Mirror switch rebuilding service w/ new springs & ball bearings - $49.50
    HEI Performance Ignition Module (Exchange) - $149.99
    Welding services also (all metals)!
    http://www.drivestainless.com

  7. #57
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drive Stainless View Post
    Ah, OK. I am using 24s currently.
    Thats a lot of injector!

    Something i learned from LS-land. The stock LS1 Injectors drop right in (same plug and everything) and are rated at 29#

  8. #58
    Not a DeLorean Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    Thanks. Iím sure I have the 19 lb injectors around somewhere... Iím willing to go through the tuning process from scratch, just to learn it and understand the conditions that require tuning which properties, but Iím also curious how your tune works with my engine, and to be able to compare the two. And I might just be lazy and use your tune and then auto-tune on top of that anyway.

    ó Joe
    Be very sure to not let autotune adjust more than one step either lean or rich. It has a habit of going bonkers and going far too lean or far too rich. Don't expect it to get it perfect either, just close. Once close, turn on EGO correction.
    -Mike
    1981 DeLorean, heads/cams/exhaust, EFI
    1999 Corvette, heads/cam/exhaust, 440 BHP
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  9. #59
    '82 T3 Turbo FABombjoy's Avatar
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    I usually use autotune with cell change resistance on "hard" or "very hard" to limit excessive table massaging. I know some of y'all don't like AT but I find it a useful solo cruise-state fine-tuning option. But usage is definitely more complex than the street name implies and is only a companion to common sense. That's partially my own fault due to scheduling, I might only be able to squeeze in 30 minutes of tuning & data capture here and there.

    One comical autotune situation: if you have an excessive peak or valley in the VE table, you will create a cell that cannot exist functionally, and this will confound AT.

    For example, if somehow your 2800 RPM @ 85KPa has a number that's 10 points lower than the surrounding cells, the engine will never be able to operate at that point and you'll orbit the cell instead of passing through it. In this case, AT will never gather proper data for that region. If you try to drive around in "very easy" mode these peaks can happen and can exacerbate themselves. It's like trying trying to iron flat a piece of tinfoil with a rock under it. Or, I once put a stalactite in my table through some combo of the Tuner Studio interface, trying to wrangle a laptop in the car, and a sensitive touchpad.

    Realistically a VE table for a 2.8 or 3.0 will be pretty pedestrian. Get a helper, hit the back roads, gather data at a few steady states, then interpolate. There will be a bump near peak torque. IMHO you'll probably spend more time trying to get WUE / ASE / AE correct.

    Just as a funny aside, on the return trip of the maiden voyage, I would occasionally encounter these oscillations on the highway. I thought for sure I had some goof-up in either the fuel or timing tables. But it would come and go, it was very strange. My wife was watching the laptop and relaying the numbers to me but it just didn't add up as to why I could feel this pulsing, and the indicator was doing laps around a section of VE and timing with reasonably similar numbers so it didn't seem to be fuel or spark. It would go away under load so it wasn't a mechanical or injector issue. Looking at the data afterward I discovered that I had engine states misconfigured (TPS-low calibration was too high) and it was going into idle mode at 80MPH. I was feeling the effects of the idle valve opening and closing. Sitting on my workbench now is a set of round-head axle bolts and geartooth sensor for VSS, which will put a permanent stop to any such misconfigurations
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 1982 Grey 5-Speed :: Single T3 .60/.48 Watercooled :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

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