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Thread: Car will not crank

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  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Posts:    448

    Car will not crank

    Car will not crank. So far I have checked the obvious things.
    1. The solenoid and starter work (I can jumper 12 volts to the solenoid input and it will turn engine over).
    2. Power from the ignition switch start circuit is getting to the start inhibit relay (I can measure 12 volts at the relay socket coil connections, 85 – 86, when turning the key to engine start position). I also hear the relay clicking when it is installed and the key is turned to start.
    3. Checked the relay on the work bench and the contacts close (30 – 87) when energized.
    4. I have continuity from the relay socket (87) to the starter solenoid.
    5. Also have good ground on solenoid (as I said I can jumper 12 volt to the solenoid and it will crank)
    What I don’t have is +12 on the relay socket pin 30 when I turn the key to start. And that seems the problem. It needs +12 on 30 to send it out on pin 87 when the relay pulls in.
    Here’s where I need help. There are some conflicts between the wiring schematic and the workshop manual.
    Here the workshop manual seems to show pin 30 connected to N (always powered) circuit:
    Workshop M.02.04 Start Cicuit Diagram.JPG
    But the wire schematic is different:
    Wire Schematic Start Relay 105.jpg
    Here I’ve zoomed in on the start relay and it seems to show the WR ignition start wire connected to both pin 86 (relay coil) and pin 30 (I've added the relay connection numbers):
    Wire Schematic Start Relay 105 Zoomed.JPG
    I’ve checked continuity between pin 86 and 30 and there is none. Is the wire schematic correct? Should the WR start circuit connect to pin 30 then cascade to pin 86?

    I realize the workshop schematic may be simplified for, well, simplification purposes, but most devices on the “always powered N” circuits go through a fuse. Is the workshop manual correct here and is there a fuse involved?

    Any advice would be appreciated. Set me straight if my troubleshooting logic is off.

    By the way, if I go by the workshop manual the only real reason for the start inhibit relay is for automatic transmissions. If that's true, couldn't I just remove the relay and jumper from 86 to 87?
    Thanks, Ron
    Last edited by DMC-Ron; 12-14-2017 at 05:24 AM.

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