A few weeks ago I had the chance to look at a perfectly restored delorean and took a bunch of photos, randomly. And bingo, look what I found. It’s definitely connected!
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A few weeks ago I had the chance to look at a perfectly restored delorean and took a bunch of photos, randomly. And bingo, look what I found. It’s definitely connected!
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Posts: 4,807
My VIN: 3937
More info on mystery connectors here:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?18...ires-Need-Help!
Your original connector is mentioned in #2 in that thread and is used on automatic transmissions only. I just looked at my car and it is plugged in, although the wiring colours don't look the same as yours so maybe there's more to it than that...
You also pointed out another unplugged connector and you can see it in this other thread's #6 photo in the first post. It is used with the diagnostic plug, which may also be auto trans related. I don't know though as I haven't used that diagnostic plug for anything recently and don't remember much about it.
The guys in that old thread also mention the plugs on top of the W pipe and incorrectly mention them as only for the auto trans. That's partially true only. Those are the "Tetris" piece connectors and every car comes with both wiring harness ends, but only auto trans cars use both opposite ends for the WOT (wide open throttle) switches. Manual trans cars use the fuel enrichment switch only while the auto trans cars use that same fuel enrichment switch PLUS a second switch mounted directly on top of the first switch and use it as a kickdown switch that tells the shift computer to kick it down one gear when floored. You can plug the wrong switch into the wrong receiver end though so be conscious of the wiring colours on those.
Whose car did you take the recent photos of? Almost looks to me like their O2 sensor ground reference wire isn't connected. It's the one with the red solid colour and black quick connector end. I can't tell if that other black connector off in the distance is the opposite end or not.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Wierd! GTX/1920x1080/16.7 million colors?
I wasn't sure at first so I pasted the lower wire next to the upper like this:
wire.jpg
Colors don't look the same.
BUT, when I look at them in the 2nd pic, post 7, they are plainly the same..
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Back to the mystery plug...
From the 1st pic in post 7, I'd say that plug hasn't been connected for a long time.
In the schematic I posted above:
The Vacuum Solenoid has a Green wire on one side and an unlabeled wire joining a black/blue wire at a connector* on the other side.
The connector has a red wire coming in from its the other side, which goes to a capacitor.
The other side of the capacitor is grounded -- Ground wires are black.
* The symbol is for a contact connector which does not have to show other connections for the plug it may be in...
So, I'm staying with the plug being for that 1uF capacitor.
(It's purpose is to reduce electrical noise from the micro switch.)
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Jonathan, you are right about different colors...it's not the plug in the other thread's pic #2:
The automatic trans only (Kickdown) switch uses LGG wire (and the fuel enrichment (Full Throttle) switch uses LG wire.
They both activate at the same time and supply ground. So it shouldn't hurt if they are swapped. Not so for the Idle Speed Switch.)
The plug in post 7 has a P and a O wire. They are for Fuse 12 and CO Dwell.
Both do tie into the big engine diagnostic plug (if equipped...).
Location: Middleburg Heights, OH
Posts: 1,939
ColorMunki Display. USB calibration device, does a fantastic job getting it to display correctly was my point, and only a hundred bucks (not cheap, but for my line of work, sometimes critical -- also, blue next to blue, I promise, grab another monitor you'll see a difference).
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Something I found on the intraweb... Any clues regarding the white one in the right of the picture?
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Hehe...I think I got your point and believe you...I just don't understand how poor color calibration would make two items of the same color, in the same photograph, be displayed as different colors. IE it seems they would both appear as the same color, correct color or not.
Not that it has anything to do with your display colors necessarily, but to keep all the colors straight:
There are no light blue wires/stripes on a D. (faded??)
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Gruffalo,
If you have a multi-meter, unplug the Vacuum Solenoid and see which of its 2 plug wires has 12v on it. Now, check to see if its other wire has continuity (near zero ohms) to the mystery plugs Black/Blue wires. If it does, you've confirm that the unlabeled wire in the schematic is Black/Blue on your car and that the mystery plug is for a capacitor, which is all but useless and you can forget about it (unless you like AM radio).
Or, go get a cheap probe light...
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Posts: 64
Aha, great, thanks!
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Location: Middleburg Heights, OH
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Your eyes are fooling you. Monitors gravitate heavily toward blue because it looks futuristic, this makes them both harder to pick out and less accurate on the entire scale. It's like saying "Purple? Nope, blue now! Green? HA, nice try, blue! Oh yellow? Okay we'll let it go green but that's it!" -- point is, it actively shifts other colors towards blue that were not blue at all. Also never helps if you've ever adjusted levels on your own, don't do that.
Post-calibration, monitors look immediately orange. This is good, otherwise why did you calibrate at all?
(By the way, modern phones have gotten the memo by sheer default of blue LED's being a PITA to work with and fading faster than red and green, so they have gravitated away from heavy reliance. Slowly, but surely -- I have a pic somewhere of the effects of LED brightness half-lives).
(Also, most likely faded, it matches the all-blue wire higher in the white envelope shot, which to me says it's OEM, but lots of things faded from heat rather than sunlight)