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Thread: My Stewardship of 10439

  1. #51
    Gess dodint's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2015

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    245

    My VIN:    10439

    The garage is heated, it's been at a more or less steady temp for 12 days.

    I am going to get it up and inspect and probably replace all the hoses for sure either way. Just wondering if there is anything else I should do while I'm in there. The fact the coolant took 12 days to leak is just really curious to me. I need to do some reading and see what opens and closes with the spin of the climate control dial.

  2. #52
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,054

    My VIN:    01049

    Old as heck hoses and clamps can behave in strange ways in the cold. You're on the right path; replace all of the hoses and clamps. There are a few hoses underneath the intake manifold that you should change as well.
    -Mike
    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
    1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  3. #53
    Gess dodint's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2015

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    245

    My VIN:    10439

    No where else really to put this but I find it quite annoying that DeloreanGo in the UK can ship me two pounds of parts with free shipping, and DMC charges $15 to ship a few ounces of speedo parts. $55 in parts becomes a $71 invoice.

    Anyway, with that order I'll have assembled everything I need to do my [first] angle drive replacement, lambda delete, and swap back to the stock speedo. I'll shoot a video for it since the ones that are out there are pretty crudely done and camera technology has improved a bit in the last few years.
    While I'm in there I'm going to replace the gauge cluster lights with LEDs, already have those LEDs in my parts pile.

    Everything seems pretty straightforward with these small projects. The only thing I'm not sure of and won't be able to see until I pull it is how to get the odometer mileage display from the speedo that is coming out of the car back into the stock speedo. I'm hoping it looks obvious when I have them side by side.

    Do any of the vendors buy 170mph speedos as cores? Or am I better off selling it outright? It works, I just don't like the scale.

  4. #54
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    6,553

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Make sure you test all of the bulbs before reassembling the binnacle. The odometer has a tiny clip that holds it in, you pull the clip out and the odometer will slide out. How much do you want for the 170 speedo? I could be interested.
    David Teitelbaum

  5. #55
    Gess dodint's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2015

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    245

    My VIN:    10439

    Thanks for the tip!

    I have no idea what to charge. Not looking to make a profit, if I can keep the part in the community where it's being used for something rather than on a top shelf in the garage I'll be happy. Let me get everything swapped and back in and then I'll let you know. I'll be looking to help knock down the cost of a complete silicon cooling hose kit as that's my project after this one.

    I'm spending this weekend in a salvage yard trying to find a 3.46 differential to replace the 2.93 differential in my BMW so it won't be immediately.

  6. #56
    Senior Member Jonathan's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Canada

    Posts:    4,185

    My VIN:    3937

    Just a reminder that the battery warning light needs to remain a regular bulb as the charging system won't work if you put an LED in that spot. Assume you already know this, but it's important and a pain in the rump if you have to go back in there just to swap out one bulb.

    Consider yourself fortunate that DMCH's prices are at least in the same currency for you. The exchange rate and shipping/customs fees are murder on overall cost. Everything on the parts page is x2 by the time you pay for everything to get it to your front door.

  7. #57
    Gess dodint's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2015

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    245

    My VIN:    10439

    Yeah, I didn't buy a bulb for the brake light.

    Leaning on Ozzie's website at http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/201...good-idea.html and recommendations I ended up at SuperBrightLeds.com but most of the part numbers have changed. I ordered:

    5 194-NW5: Natural White $3.49
    1 194-B4-90: Blue Wide $2.59
    1 194-A4-90: Amber Wide $1.59
    3 194-G4-90: Green Wide $2.59
    5 194-R4-90: Red Wide $1.59
    1 E10-WHP: E10 Edison Base Bulb $9.95

    The last one is for the glovebox. Natural White was a personal choice, I preferred that neutral white light over the blue(ish) light or the softer yellow(ish) light.

  8. #58
    Gess dodint's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2015

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    245

    My VIN:    10439

    I'm about to install LED lighted window switches and a Mattaligner. Earlier I was poking around looking for a ready-made ashtray replacement as I can't think of anything more useless in this car than the sliding ash tray, and I came across Mark Hershey's blog and this picture:



    I'd like to do the same, and move my window switches to the outboard locations. Is there enough slack wiring there to just move them over or do I have to splice in a small extension?

    Is anyone selling an ashtray drop-in, similar to the Porsche club one that is no longer available? I would be happy to put my garage door opener in the stock ashtray but the metal enclosure blocks the signal.

  9. #59
    Gess dodint's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2015

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    245

    My VIN:    10439

    For some reason I have an issue where when heat gets into the 5-speed transmission after about 30 minutes of driving Reverse and First get really hard to shift into. I thought it might be the plastic clutch line but I went and checked and it already has been upgraded to the SS braided hose. I'm going to change the transmission fluid to Red Line 75W90NS tonight and see if that helps. There was clutchwork done in 2015, parts list in the picture below.



    I'd be surprised if it was a legit clutch issue. I drove it a good bit and had no problem at all, but the last two or three times I've driven it this has happened. The only variable is the ambient temperature is much higher now.

    I also bought a QuickJack lift system and it's being delivered today. This will probably be the first use for it, excited to try it out.
    Attached Images

  10. #60
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    1,471

    My VIN:    5003

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    FWIW it has always been difficult for me to shift into first gear in my car until I reach a certain speed, which is very slow and almost to a stop - at this low speed I feel I still have to put some force into the shift lever for it to go into first. When shifting into reverse, I need to shift into first prior to shifting into reverse otherwise it will grind if I go straight into reverse. 16 years it has been this way, new clutches, hydraulics, fluids, bushing kit etc has not changed this. Anxious to know how Redline works for you, I have not tried anything other than usual gear oil.
    -----Dan B.

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