Starting my rebuild, a few questions

[txdmc]

Well the time has come and I am now starting my rebuild. I had a machine shop repair the damaged portion of the block where the cylinder liner met up with the block. I ordered a new liner and piston kit from through delorean go, I am aware that it comes from delorean europe.

So a few questions before I begin that I have not found an affirmative answer to:

1) I have both the DMC service manual and the volvo rebuilder manual for our engine. What tool can I use to check the liner height protrusion vs. the block height as the manual states to do? reading the manual I understand why you need to and what to do but I just dont know the technical tool name to buy. Yes i am buying a proper straight edge for use in the rebuild as the manual states.

2) Can you just use the "yellow" shim? I know not to stack shims from previous post research.

3) My block was washed in a dishwasher type machine (not a real dishwasher but a professional parts washer). It still looks kind of dingy, do people powder coat the actual block or can you hot tank it? Yes i know there is a certain kind of hot tank for aluminum, let me know what to look for/ask about.

I guess any other insights let me know, thanks in advance.

[vwdmc16]

Check out the first post on this page

#301

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?37...of-1768/page31

I show how I made a quick tool to measure the cylinder height using the machinist straight edge, vice grip, and a simple dial indicator. It served very well for the job and you should have all three of those tools for a rebuild anyway.


I also used one of those parts cleaners but was not fully content with the result. I removed all the oil and water galley plugs then bead blasted the block with walnuts. Manual scrapping and wire wheeling was still needed in the roughest spots.

I opted to paint as I worried the 450' temp from powdercoat might warp something.

[txdmc]

great info! I just ordered a straight edge and dial gauge. what paint did you use? POR 15 system?

[vwdmc16]

No POR 15. I did that years ago and it did not last.

I used very high temp engine paint, baked it in the oven a 200' for a while.

[txdmc]

alright sounds good.

[DMCMW Dave]

No POR 15. I did that years ago and it did not last.

I used very high temp engine paint, baked it in the oven a 200' for a while.

I agree - POR15 works pretty well on the frame, but it's not good at all on the engine. It's really hard to get anything to stick to the aluminum short of powder coating, and I don't think I'd try to powder coat an engine block unless I was turning it into a coffee table.

[David T]

If you insist on painting the engine under the intake manifold try Glyptol. Clean the metal as good as you can first. You can get Glyptol at Eastwood (.com) or at a local shop that rebuilds electric motors.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I agree - POR15 works pretty well on the frame, but it's not good at all on the engine. It's really hard to get anything to stick to the aluminum short of powder coating, and I don't think I'd try to powder coat an engine block unless I was turning it into a coffee table.

I used Rust-Oleum paint brush on right from the can for my engine components. It seems to hold up fine (intake and valve covers) but I have not had the intake off to see how the valley is holding up. The paint will remove with a solvent so you can't use a cleaner with solvent.