A post trim

[Jim D]

I am trying to figure out a way to install new interior A post trim units without removing the windshield. I have done this on a car with the windshield removed and it is pretty easy. But in this case I don’t want to disturb the windshield and hope there is a way to install the 2 trim pieces. Anyone tried this with success?
Jim

[WNY1983]

The A post covers are held in by the windshield. You need to have someone ( with experience) take the windshield out. ***Before this is done, the roof has to be supported from the inside of the cabin.***
The windshield is a structural component for the top end of the vehicle. If roof is not supported from the inside your roof box could be compromised.

[Jim D]

Had anyone out there replaced these covers without removing the windshield?

[Shep]

Depends on VIN -- early VIN's didn't wrap around windshield, later ones did. Is the issue removal or installation? If it's installation, and you bought a new unit rather than a used, ask the vendor how to adjust it to make it an early VIN style. If it's removal, yeah windshield needs to come off and that's pretty involved.

[dn010]

When I replaced my windshield I replaced the trim by gluing the fabric under the windshield like it came from the factory (vin 5003). Prior to this, I did experiment with the replacements and old windscreen and you can either cut the material or fold it around inside the trim post fiberglass (if you're not using DMCH replacements then it will be a plastic material inside the post trim) in order to install them but it doesn't look as good. I am sure vendors can elaborate since I am sure they all don't remove windshields just to replace this post trim.

[Shep]

(if you're not using DMCH replacements then it will be a plastic material inside the post trim)

From the threads I just found on the subject, the opposite is true, which is news to me: if it's a DMCH A-pillar then it will be plastic, otherwise it will be fiberglass -- I thought DMCH was selling fiberglass from the time they ran out of NOS?! Hopefully someone can clear this up, but it's also dated info. OEM was plastic, but I can't fathom DMCH actually sold any reproduction plastic ones. Regardless, if you're replacing it, fiberglass is a must here, plastic just doesn't age well and before long won't hold up to the heat like it used to, and you'll replace it yet again. Fiberglass is about the same price anyhow, why not do it right the first time?

Here's the threads I found on the subject where a vendor weighed in, hope they help:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...a-pillar-trims
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?36...-A-pillar-trim

One additional one on the windshield:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?60...ld-replacement

If your windshield is removed, you need a jig. I've seen the results of not having said jig, the end product is roof sag. Doors closed still has this problem, the windshield is structural. It's not hard to make, actually a regular car jack and some lumbar is sufficient, but it will avoid any warping issues and also allow you to safely and comfortably get in and out of the car without crawling in through where the windshield once was. It's not a terribly noticeable sag until things start not fitting like they used to, and with the natural heat/cool cycles of just being outdoors, over time you'll notice it.

[dn010]

All I can tell you is I removed the original A post trim pieces and they were plastic. I received replacements in 2016 and they were fiberglass.

I replaced my own windshield, kept the height of the roof the same from prior removal to after replacement and never used a jig. Maybe I got lucky but I don't have any problems as a result. I would suggest you use a jig though.

From the threads I just found on the subject, the opposite is true, which is news to me: if it's a DMCH A-pillar then it will be plastic, otherwise it will be fiberglass -- I thought DMCH was selling fiberglass from the time they ran out of NOS?! Hopefully someone can clear this up, but it's also dated info. OEM was plastic, but I can't fathom DMCH actually sold any reproduction plastic ones. Regardless, if you're replacing it, fiberglass is a must here, plastic just doesn't age well and before long won't hold up to the heat like it used to, and you'll replace it yet again. Fiberglass is about the same price anyhow, why not do it right the first time?

Here's the threads I found on the subject where a vendor weighed in, hope they help:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...a-pillar-trims
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?36...-A-pillar-trim

One additional one on the windshield:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?60...ld-replacement

If your windshield is removed, you need a jig. I've seen the results of not having said jig, the end product is roof sag. Doors closed still has this problem, the windshield is structural. It's not hard to make, actually a regular car jack and some lumbar is sufficient, but it will avoid any warping issues and also allow you to safely and comfortably get in and out of the car without crawling in through where the windshield once was. It's not a terribly noticeable sag until things start not fitting like they used to, and with the natural heat/cool cycles of just being outdoors, over time you'll notice it.

[Shep]

All I can tell you is I removed the original A post trim pieces and they were plastic. I received replacements in 2016 and they were fiberglass.

Glad to hear that, I did a double-take when I read that, I'll chalk it up to "dated info". DMCH is pretty good about phasing out quickly when they upgrade materials and such.

[dn010]

My point by writing if you are not using replacements they will be plastic, is if you take out the originals to recover them. They will be plastic. They can be reused if you’re gluing them under the windshield, but if you are not going to support them by using the windshield I would change them to fiberglass.

EDIT: To clarify, the fiberglass replacements I purchased were from DMCH.


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[Jim D]

Thanks for all the help! I have ordered the replacement covers and hope that they are fiberglass! I was told of another suggestion to “hide” the raw edge of the cover under the windshield.
That was to “tint” the windshield side edge perhaps 1/2” from the edge, that way, the cover joint cannot be seen. I suppose that works well with the Fiberglas covers, (no warping). When the covers arrive, I’ll see what I have to work with and give it a try.
Thanks!!