Clutch stuck? Pedal will not depress - Suggestions?

[dn010]

I am sorry, brain dead moment, in neutral it will roll regardless. You will still need to get a functioning hydraulic clutch system in order to see what is going on.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The fact that you can't press the pedal down probably means the hydraulic system is holding pressure therefore the plate is frozen. On very early cars the T/O bearing has no plastic sleeve and it can rust to the clutch tube with the same effect. I just pulled the transmission on a 500 series car with this exact problem. I have never seen a frozen master cylinder but once you get it free I guarantee your hydraulic cylinders will start leaking under these circumstances.
Rob

[dn010]

He has a 10,XXX vin- in order to rule out the clutch MC, couldn't he just pop the plastic clutch line off to see if he gets fluid to push through? Probably make a mess but then you'd know where the problem is. Agreed even if nothing is frozen 34 year old cylinders along with the throw out bearing will probably need to be replaced so I guess it doesn't really matter which one is the issue.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

He has a 10,XXX vin- in order to rule out the clutch MC, couldn't he just pop the plastic clutch line off to see if he gets fluid to push through? Probably make a mess but then you'd know where the problem is. Agreed even if nothing is frozen 34 year old cylinders along with the throw out bearing will probably need to be replaced so I guess it doesn't really matter which one is the issue.

The master has a resevoir check/cut off seal to keep fluid from backing up into it when the clutch is depressed. When that fails the pedal goes to the floor but the clutch doesn't release. In that instance taking off the cap is not a good idea. That is not the case here. The only time I've seen this was to my previous garage queen!
Rob

[Ron]

$.02
Remove the slave cylinder bleeder (since they can be clogged after sitting a long time, etc.) and try it.
If the pedal will then move, remove the slave cylinder and see if its piston is seized up.
If the slave is ok, it's probably clutch kit time.
If the pedal will not move, remove the line at the master cylinder and try it.
If the pedal will now move, the line has a problem.
If the pedal will not move, pull the MC....

[David T]

My $0.02 If the fluid looks dark and thick the hydraulics are shot. Replace the master cylinder, the slave cylinder and the plastic clutch line. If the pedal still won't move the clutch is coming out.

[Ron]

He has a 10,XXX vin- in order to rule out the clutch MC, couldn't he just pop the plastic clutch line off to see if he gets fluid to push through? Probably make a mess but then you'd know where the problem is. Agreed even if nothing is frozen 34 year old cylinders along with the throw out bearing will probably need to be replaced so I guess it doesn't really matter which one is the issue.

I missed ^this^ somehow...

I have to say that's what I would wind up doing instead because I am lazy and if the clutch has to come out, it ALL would anyway.