Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

[dn010]

Along with cork tape for the job you'll also want to buy some foam tape to replace your now non-existent old foam on/in the heat/ac box.

I have done this job twice now - if there is any reasonable way, do try to save the existing evaporator; you can flush it out etc. Once you're removing the dash you'll wish you had salvaged it.

The first time I did this, I removed the entire dash and entire box. The latest time, I removed the dash and only half the box, leaving the heater core in place and connected to the cooling system saving a ton of time that would otherwise be spent draining, refilling, bleeding, etc. Be careful removing your dash & bannicle, if it is old and brittle you may crack things, you can also tear up your A-post trim removing the dash if you're not careful. If the dash is old and sunburned, now is the perfect time to fill cracks & spray them down with vinyl paint and make them look new.

Cork tape on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049MM5BM
Foam tape on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SYQ3VNA

There is more than enough of each tape to complete the job.

[jangell]

I thought the top of the dash and the binnacle were two of the few things that didn't have to come off, and that it was mostly the center console, center stack various passenger side elements that had to be removed. I want to do some custom dash work, so learning how to remove all that won't be a horrible thing to do, even if it is a PITA.

Unfortunately, after 33 years of being garaged, I started storing the car outside, and in the first year of constant sun exposure the binnacle finally cracked. I'll be replacing that at some point too (not just now, though). The dash itself is still intact (for now...).

I admit that I did just fill the coolant system as I got ready to test the 3.0L conversion, although I haven't actually bled it yet, so I only have to do 90% of the coolant work for the heater core. Of course, I've taken off the rear fascia three times since I put it back on due to mistakes I made with some wiring in the tail lights, and the center console out twice more, and took out the relay strips again. That's the problem with doing a bunch of things and then trying to test them all at the same time (mostly it was other things to do while I waited for engine swap parts).

Thanks for the links -- I've added both to my Amazon cart.

-- Joe

[Andrew]

I thought the top of the dash and the binnacle were two of the few things that didn't have to come off, and that it was mostly the center console, center stack various passenger side elements that had to be removed. I want to do some custom dash work, so learning how to remove all that won't be a horrible thing to do, even if it is a PITA.

Unfortunately, after 33 years of being garaged, I started storing the car outside, and in the first year of constant sun exposure the binnacle finally cracked. I'll be replacing that at some point too (not just now, though). The dash itself is still intact (for now...).

I admit that I did just fill the coolant system as I got ready to test the 3.0L conversion, although I haven't actually bled it yet, so I only have to do 90% of the coolant work for the heater core. Of course, I've taken off the rear fascia three times since I put it back on due to mistakes I made with some wiring in the tail lights, and the center console out twice more, and took out the relay strips again. That's the problem with doing a bunch of things and then trying to test them all at the same time (mostly it was other things to do while I waited for engine swap parts).

Thanks for the links -- I've added both to my Amazon cart.

-- Joe

The dash pad and binnacle do not need to come out. No access advantage will be gained from removing them as the underbody that the dash bolts to remains in the way of the HVAC box.The center console, glove box liner, and the passenger side knee pad need to come off. Having had the interior apart, I can attest to the fact that spending a couple bucks on a set of gear wrenches (or at the very least a 10 mm) with a flex head is a wise investment :-)

[jangell]

Great — that lines up with the other information I’ve found about what to take apart. Luckily, I have a whole bunch of wrenches of different lengths and shapes from when I did the engine swap. At one point I had to use a series of adaptors to get the transmission bolts out. Hopefully I’ll have the right once’s for his, or be able to assemble something. I even have a set of gear wrenches.
Thanks

— Joe

[jangell]

After sitting for a week with penetrating oil, I was able to clamp vice grips onto the stubborn line, and after a few hard twists it actually spun, and I was able to pull it free! Thanks everyone for the help.

I also got the lower hose off of the accumulator, and started draining the radiator (have to do that anyway for the heater core) and dropping it and the condenser, which I'll also be replacing (not the radiator, though; that's already new-ish). Next weekend I'll remove the trunk access and see about separating the evaporator from the accumulator, and then the next week I can start putting the new parts in.

Thanks again!

-- Joe

[DMC5180]

As I recall the heater core does not drain all that well.
You may want too blow the core out with low pressure air or cap the brass tubes. When I disconnected the lines from the core, I found the brass tubes partially collapsed from beings over tightened at some point, possibly the factory.


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[jangell]

Good to know -- thanks. I'm planning on removing the passenger side carpet to keep the mess to a minimum, just in case.

-- Joe

[DMCMW Dave]

When I disconnected the lines from the core, I found the brass tubes partially collapsed from beings over tightened at some point, possibly the factory.

I've seen that often enough that I tend to agree. Doesn't really seem to cause problems, but apparently someone at the factory was pretty aggressive on those particular clamps.

[ritztoys]

Sorry for this OT question, I figured you guys with the experience who have had your ac/heater box out or partially disassembled could help me here.

My heater/ac temperature control is 'stuck' in ac mode, currently my center console is removed as well as both seats.

Does the 'control door' inside the heater/ac box rest against foam or other sealing material? (that this door could be stuck too?)

I have penetrating oil on the cable to be sure it isn't the problem(rusted in place?)

Do you guys think I can fix this without removing the heater/ac box?

Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.......

[DMC5180]

Are you saying the control is Stuck as in it doesn’t move period? It should be noted that the knob can be installed on the shaft in 6 positions. Perhaps the shaft all the way Hot but the knob is positioned to point Cold. Trying to move it to Hot would make you think it is stuck In Cold.


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