Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

[ritztoys]

DMC5180,

Thanks for your reply. Yes, it is stuck period! I understand that it can be mounted in six positions, but I can clearly see that nothing is moving to the point I can almost twist the radio console in its' mounting.

I try to use the control knob as well as 'pulling'(with long nose needle-nose pliers) on the cable leading to the heater/ac door lever .......and nothing moves! The gear assembly in this control is at its' maximum position, so I can see I'm pulling in the correct direction as opposed to 'pushing' this cable control. (if stuck in heater mode)

This is why I suspect either the cable is rusted in place or the heater/ac door is stuck internally?

[DMC5180]

It would be pretty weird to have rust in that relatively short cable. But anything is possible I guess. Can you unmount the rotary control mechanism and fish it out the Passenger footwell area too get a better look to see if it is jammed in some way?


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[ritztoys]

It would be pretty weird to have rust in that relatively short cable. But anything is possible I guess. Can you unmount the rotary control mechanism and fish it out the Passenger footwell area too get a better look to see if it is jammed in some way?


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The only reason I mentioned rust is, I can see the lower cable(next to the door lever) with rust between the cable sheath and its' attachment to the lever.

I'll take your suggestion to heart and remove said mechanism to check for any kind of binding. I don't think the 'gear assembly' is at fault as it does try to rotate, meshing with the smaller gear from the control knob shaft.

This check may take a few days to complete, temperature is in the teens today, garage isn't very friendly when its' this cold!

Until then I'll keep applying penetrating oil to cable and the rotate point of the heater/ac door lever where it exits from the heater/ac box bottom. (hard place to work in, but what isn't a hard area to work in on this car?)

My other question hasn't been answered yet, does the "control door" rest against any kind of foam, rubber or other sealant, which it could stick against?

[jangell]

I got the accumulator out completely today. Surprisingly, the nut to the evaporator came off quite easily, which was nice. I also got the coolant lines off the heater core while I was there.

I wound up giving up on the condenser and cutting off the upper hose, which is fine since I'm replacing it anyway. It turns out only one of the four brackets that secure it to the radiator were still attached, and the last one was about to give out.

I also pulled off the shield protecting the fuel tank, just in case I needed access there (I don't think I do, but it was pretty dirty under there). I managed to break all but one bolt along the front edge, but the bolts along the two other sides came out easily. Of course, since this shield slides under another piece of meta at the frontl, I still can't actually remove it from the car because it's stuck on what's left of those broken bolts. I'm probably just going to put it back up and re-install the bolts along the other two sides (and the one good bolt on the front edge). I seriously doubt there is any chance that it's going to come loose while driving.

All I have to do now is remove the old compressor hoses from under the car, and that's it for the exterior. All my replacement parts are arriving this week, and then I can tackle actually getting the evaporator out next weekend.

One thing that I did find curious was two metal lines that appear to have been cut and crimped right at the edge of the shield. Anyone know what these are? I haven't tried tracing them back yet, but I couldn't find them in the manuals. It's the two brass-looking ones that are zip-tied to the coolant pipe.

IMG_0357.jpg

Thanks!

-- Joe

[DMC5180]

Those lines look like they were an attempt to the re-route the heater lines.

Is your car an Auto or Manual?


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[jangell]

Auto.

-- Joe

[DMC5180]

Possibly an attempt at running a separate transmission cooler to the front of the car.


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[jangell]

Makes sense. Zip ties aren't actually factory for this sort of thing. I do have PJ Grady's heat exchanger things wrapped around my transmission pipes for a similar reason, but I never thought to try running a dedicated cooler/radiator setup.

If I trace the lines and find out where they go, I'll report back. Thanks.

-- Joe

[David T]

Looks like copper pipes, definitely not original. Could be for the heater, fuel, or transmission. I would remove them. As for the evap coil, I would do everything possible to try not to have to replace it. R & R ing that heater box is one of the biggest jobs you can do on a Delorean. If you don't munch up the ends of the pipes, make a hole in the pipe trying to replace the orifice, and the coil isn't leaking, you should use the old coil. Test it, flush it out and seal it up till you can finish the rest of the A/C system. if you do have to replace the evap coil you should rebuild/replace EVERYTHING in the heater box so you never have to go in there again. To remove the heater box you have to remove just about all of the interior to do it.

[DMC5180]

Makes sense. Zip ties aren't actually factory for this sort of thing. I do have PJ Grady's heat exchanger things wrapped around my transmission pipes for a similar reason, but I never thought to try running a dedicated cooler/radiator setup.

If I trace the lines and find out where they go, I'll report back. Thanks.

-- Joe

If the lines just end up Doing a Trombone U-turn, I’d say it was an attempt at a trans cooler. That is the Cold return side from the radiator they are tied to.


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