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Thread: Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

  1. #11
    Senior Member
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    I should have remembered that location of the fuel lines and tank before trying the MAP torch. I have fire extinguishers handy. I also have a couple of fiberglass fiber blankets; I might try to secure some of them around the whole area to keep some of the heat off, along with some wet rags, before I try again tomorrow.

    I'll wrap a cold rag around the steel pipe to cool it down while heating up the , too -- that's a good idea. If all else fails, I'll try vice grips as suggested.

    As for why I'm replacing the evaporator: The last time the car was on the road (a few years ago now), it was running through an entire charge of R12 in about 3 months. A local A/C shop put in dye and recharged it, but couldn't find any problems, so they theorized that there was a leak at the evaporator. My entire A/C system is probably original, and I already have half of the interior out (including the center console and radio), so if I'm going to do the evaporator, I might as well do it now. The whole system has been exposed to air for at least 3 years now, too (although that probably just means the orifice tube and accumulator need to be replaced, if I understand things properly). I'll do the heater core too, although I kind of wish I hadn't filled the coolant system already. Oh well. My condenser has some warped aluminum near near the pipes (someone torqued the hose wrong at some point), and two of the mounting tabs are broken, so I figure it's not a bad idea to replace it as well.

    On another note, I don't suppose anyone has any 3.0L mounting brackets for an A/C compressor, do they? My engine is only an engine, and didn't come with a compressor, and the 2.8L brackets won't fit on the 3.0L valve covers. I suppose I could always fabricate something, if it comes to that, and if eBay is a bust...

    Thanks again!

    -- Joe

  2. #12
    '82 T3 Turbo FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    A job I never wish to do again.
    Haha, that's why when I gouged the inside of the tube, I was willing to try some "alternative therapies" before proceeding into HVAC surgery.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

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  3. #13
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

    3.0L uses a direct bolt onto rocker cover configuration

    Here is Farrarís

    3.0L engine swap
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...5&share_type=t


    Also the hose end fittings from DPI are 90 deg elbows so you wouldnít need to space it up aa high as Farrarís is.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by DMC5180; 01-27-2018 at 05:15 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    3.0L uses a direct bolt onto rocker cover configuration

    Here is Farrarís

    3.0L engine swap
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...5&share_type=t
    I was looking at the valve cover today, and noticed that those four bolt holes looked a lot liken they might line right up with the holes on the compressors I was looking at. That saves me a lot of trouble. Good to know about using spacers so the A/C lines will clear the filler, too.

    Thanks!

    -- Joe

  5. #15
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

    See edit too my previous post



    DPI hoses

    My compressor uses Vertical port configuration instead of the Original horizontal configuration. I liked it better that way.

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    Last edited by DMC5180; 01-27-2018 at 05:38 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #16
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Hi there,

    Here's a picture of the inside of the fitting in case that helps visualize what is in there:



    I agree with the advice. Penetrating fluid, gently and with caution, heat the aluminum evaporator pipe, and cool the metal pipe on the hose ( perhaps using ice cubes?). I've had good luck with the heat and cooling technique on the DeLorean, especially the exhaust. Here's an example just this week on my DD Hemi project. I wanted to remove an OEM dust shield from my old harmonic balancer as apparently the new ones never come with one, and you generally destroy the ring trying to remove it:

    Old ring, new balancer:
    image.jpg

    New balancer with old dust ring installed:
    image.jpg

    In this case, I put the old balancer in the freezer overnight ( much to my wife's chagrin) and then heated the ring a bit and pried it off.

    I use a micro butane torch for these delicate jobs:
    https://www.harborfreight.com/butane...rch-63170.html

    You shouldn't need much heat.

    Good luck.
    Dana

    Delorean status: Restoration finished. DMC's BRP program completed, and CECF 2017 & 2018 Platinum Award winner.

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  7. #17
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    Thanks for the pic -- it does help me understand what's going on in there. I usually like to take things apart after I have the replacement so that I can get a better idea of how everything goes together, but I don't have them yet.

    I'll try the heat-and-cold trick tomorrow. I could try oxyacetylene, but that's a bit overkill here. Although I am wondering if the ability to get a more focused flame would be outweighed by the much greater heat. I'm guessing I stick to MAP. That and I don't want to actually melt the aluminum, which I'd probably do with oxyacetylene.

    -- Joe

  8. #18
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    I don't remember the numbers, but MAPP burns hotter than Propane and it burns roughly 3 times aluminum's melting point.

    I'd suggest PB Blaster and the most important part, patience.

  9. #19
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    Thanks for the pic -- it does help me understand what's going on in there. I usually like to take things apart after I have the replacement so that I can get a better idea of how everything goes together, but I don't have them yet.

    I'll try the heat-and-cold trick tomorrow. I could try oxyacetylene, but that's a bit overkill here. Although I am wondering if the ability to get a more focused flame would be outweighed by the much greater heat. I'm guessing I stick to MAP. That and I don't want to actually melt the aluminum, which I'd probably do with oxyacetylene.

    -- Joe
    Yeah, weíre only talking 200-300 degrees. Aluminum expands quickly and you cook some of the corrosion too. But it can also melt the orifice tube. The trick is to heat it quickly, get them apart and quench the fittings right away with wet rags.

    Acetylene is fine, you just feather the flame at a distance or use a small welding tip.

    If you go to the beginning of Farrarís 3.0L thread there are more pictures and details about the A/C compressor including the QD head swap that was done.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  10. #20
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    Location:  Oklahoma

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    You are just fighting corrosion and "O" ring stickage. That hose just slides in there with the plastic orfice tube first. Did you try twisting the hose with a pair of channel locks at the strong flared section? No More than the cost of the orfice tube and hose i would order new. Does your low pressure compressor hose come out the side of the accumulator/dryer or from the bottom? If its the bottom then you are going to change the low pressure hose from the compressor as well. That is a early vin issue and i hope you dont have that to worry about.

    I think your biggest concern is the other 1 1/16" size accumulator nut. That is the big pain in the rear. Like stated before the dis-similar metal corrosion has done its job there for sure. Also soak the condenser lines before taking any lines off of it.

    I had to buy a small set of oxygen and acetylene bottles and heat the 1 1/16 size nut connection till i melted one flat on the accumulator before the darn thing broke loose.

    I would order a snap-on brand line wrench crows foot for this. WHATEVER YOU DO DONT ROUND OFF THE EVAPORATOR NUT. It will want to round off, just step back relax and try something different.

    This is a job for an advanced level wrench turner. You will have a feeling of accomplishment when you get done.

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