Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 50

Thread: Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

  1. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    596

    My VIN:    767

    I have an early Ď81 (VIN 767) with the hose coming out of the bottom of the accumulator. I plan on upgrading to the 82-83 style and adding a high pressure switch, as well as converting to R134. Iíve been talking with DMC MW about getting everything to do this.

    I tried oxyfuel with my small welding tip, and managed to start a very small fire in the plastic or whatever it is where the evaporator pokes through the firewall. It was quickly put out with wet rags, once I managed to stuff them in there. I think Iíll skip anything more than a heat gun going forwards, especially after I spotted the fuel lines and saw just how close they are.

    I tried channel lock pliers and vice grips to twist the wide part of the hose near the connector, but itís still solidly in place.

    I also tried to disconnect the hose at the bottom of the accumulator, without much success. Iím covering everything with Kroil (and picking up some PB Blaster; the Kroil isnít a spray), and Iíll try again next weekend after it has had time to sit. If that still doesnít work, Iíll cover everything with PB Blaster and try again the next day.

    Since I plan on replacing the entire AC system, including the evaporator and condenser, I might just resort to cutting everything out rather than spending the time to carefully disconnect the old hardware. Iíll give it a few more tries before giving up. Its a bit of an unusually luxury to be able to just destroy these bits and tear them out without worry. The evaporator box is expendable as well, due to the high likelihood of a leak there.

    I did get the bottom hose off the compressor, so at least something is going well.

    Thanks again everyone!

    ó Joe

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Oklahoma

    Posts:    107

    My VIN:    1058

    i disagree with replacing the evaporator. That took me hours....HOURS to change, but i had a leak. I would however check for a leak with a sniffer before thinking its toast. With a evaporator leak you would usually loose your charge very fast unlike a hose and "O" ring leak which would be a slow leak down. With a evaporator being a crack in a piece of metal the freon rushes out. You are on the right path using wet rags but also rap them with several layers of foil. You will not get this done without acetylene however. You most likely will need some extreme heat. I know this sounds scary but the heat/fire can be directly applied to the area really fast then removed before anything else gets hot. A heat gun applies heat slow and in-directly, getting everything hot.

    This sucks that you also have a early vin with the old style accumulator. You wont be able to get the suction hose ran down the length of the car without cutting it in two. I cut it where it would be hidden, under that shield back by the rear end frame bolt. Some owners bolt them together but i used a hose barb with hose clamps. Hose barbs are at the end of every connector anyways so adding a fancy pressed on threaded coupler seems like to much for the job. I just did all of this last summer and it is still fresh on my mind. Give me a call if you want. I will PM you

  3. #23
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,738

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

    I was going to suggest using Kroil. Its my favorite penetrating oil. Glad to here you already had some on hand.

    Why is the Evaporator box expendable? Yes, New Evaporators are available, but the box/housing not so much. In fact you really want to take great care when dismantling it. Based on my experience of removing it. Do not even try to separate the two halves until it is completely out of the car.

    Sadly there is no detailed procedure spelling out the HVAC housing removal. You just need take it a step at a time and investigate.

    Things that I recall doing.

    Remove blower assembly, there are fasteners up inside that hold it to the under side of the dash.

    Remove glovebox insert.

    I donít recall if it was necessary to remove the Air Recirculating door assembly before the housing is out.

    Remove the Center duct housing assembly. This also gives you access to the defroster ducting for its removal.

    Disconnect the Vacuum servos lines.

    I think thereís a support bracket under the housing with a couple fasteners.

    Disconnect the temperature control cable.

    Drop the blower resistor out of the housing, if the connector is heat corroded too it. You can deal with it after things are in the open.

    This is most of what I can remember doing.

    There maybe more but this is what I can recall from doing it 9 years ago.

    Also the black sticky caulking is readily available at most auto parts stores.

    Its a 3M product known as black strip caulk.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by DMC5180; 01-28-2018 at 01:06 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #24
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    4,524

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    ^I agree -- Save the evaporator (where is, if it is at all possible)...
    Since you are going to wait until the weekend to actually try it, hit it with the PB when you come in each day to keep it wet.
    If all else fails, I would cut the hose end off (the hose shops have the fittings) leaving enough to peel it out...

  5. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111

    Posts:    748

    My VIN:    2691

    evaporator box

    It is possible to remove the evaporator core from
    beneath the dash. I did this 28? years ago when I could
    still maneuver my body into impossible places. Take the
    seat out for more room. Mine wasn't leaking but I twisted
    those same fittings clean off not knowing the nut was not
    happy about turning. Like Dave Swingle says your not going
    to get all those screws back in place on the box joint....

    have fun

  6. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    596

    My VIN:    767

    Quote Originally Posted by Ratrace427 View Post
    i disagree with replacing the evaporator. That took me hours....HOURS to change, but i had a leak. I would however check for a leak with a sniffer before thinking its toast. With a evaporator leak you would usually loose your charge very fast unlike a hose and "O" ring leak which would be a slow leak down. With a evaporator being a crack in a piece of metal the freon rushes out.
    A few years back (last time the car was in the road) I had my AC recharged, and within 3 months it was empty. I brought it back to the AC shop, and they recharged it again and put dye in the system. When I came back to check for leaks, the shop couldnít find anything. He guessed the leak was at the evaporator. Thatís why Iím planning on replacing it. Iíd rather do everything now, even if itís a PITA, than have to spend even more time do it later.

    You are on the right path using wet rags but also rap them with several layers of foil. You will not get this done without acetylene however. You most likely will need some extreme heat. I know this sounds scary but the heat/fire can be directly applied to the area really fast then removed before anything else gets hot. A heat gun applies heat slow and in-directly, getting everything hot.
    Iíll try next week after Iíve let the penetrating oil soak in and failed to simply pull it free. Using foil sounds like a good idea to protect the fiberglass and other plastics and harness.

    This sucks that you also have a early vin with the old style accumulator. You wont be able to get the suction hose ran down the length of the car without cutting it in two. I cut it where it would be hidden, under that shield back by the rear end frame bolt. Some owners bolt them together but i used a hose barb with hose clamps. Hose barbs are at the end of every connector anyways so adding a fancy pressed on threaded coupler seems like to much for the job. I just did all of this last summer and it is still fresh on my mind. Give me a call if you want. I will PM you
    You mean the hose from the accumulator to the compressor? Yeah, I figured Iíd just cut that in half to pull it out, and then Iíll convert to the later style. I donít actually have the shields on my car (not sure I ever had them), so I donít have to worry about them.

    Iíve done so much with the engine swapnoverbtheblast few years that some of these things seem almost simple by comparison.

    Thanks for the offer to call you ó if I get stuck again next weekend, I may well take you up on that.

    ó Joe

  7. #27
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    1,636

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    I have an early Ď81 (VIN 767) with the hose coming out of the bottom of the accumulator. I plan on upgrading to the 82-83 style and adding a high pressure switch, as well as converting to R134. Iíve been talking with DMC MW about getting everything to do this.
    Cool. Here's my thread on refurbing and updating my early system in case it helps. I realize that you are upgrading the accumulator and converting to R134, but perhaps other aspects will help:

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...efurbing+early
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  8. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    596

    My VIN:    767

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    I was going to suggest using Kroil. Its my favorite penetrating oil. Glad to here you already had some on hand.
    Unfortunately, the Kroil I have is in the form of a can that you pour onto the part, and it's 3/4 empty and I couldn't get it into a position that I could get it onto these parts. I wound up getting some PB Blaster and liberally coated all of the fasteners with it, but I do like Kroil.

    Why is the Evaporator box expendable? Yes, New Evaporators are available, but the box/housing not so much. In fact you really want to take great care when dismantling it. Based on my experience of removing it. Do not even try to separate the two halves until it is completely out of the car.
    Sorry, terminology problem from me mostly learning as I go. I mean the evaporator CORE is expendable, since I plan on replacing it, but the BOX I intend to keep.

    Sadly there is no detailed procedure spelling out the HVAC housing removal. You just need take it a step at a time and investigate.

    Things that I recall doing.
    Thanks for the tips. I've been Googling around a bit seeing what I could find. I already have the center console, radio and knee pads out (while trying to chase down an electrical issue that was nowhere near there, and after I had just reinstalled it all). I had seem that the globe box and blower motor have to come out, and the hot/cold air mixer door, that support brackets you mentioned, and the passenger seat (which I had out recently as well, of course, and then put back in) for easier access and carpets so you don't ruin them with coolant from the heater core.

    I seen anything about the vacuum servos or defroster ducting. Removing all this will be useful practice for me, since I want to replace the vacuum system with electric actuators with the goal of putting in a more moaner climate control mechanism with a thermostat and possibly separate passenger/driver temperatures (mostly as a project, not because there's a specific need to do it, since the vacuum controls work fine).

    Also the black sticky caulking is readily available at most auto parts stores.
    Its a 3M product known as black strip caulk.

    I'll hunt it down. I think I have some of that in my garage, actually, but I never knew what it was called. Thanks!

    -- Joe

  9. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    596

    My VIN:    767

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Cool. Here's my thread on refurbing and updating my early system in case it helps. I realize that you are upgrading the accumulator and converting to R134, but perhaps other aspects will help:

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...efurbing+early
    Great -- thanks! I stumbled onto this thread in my earlier searches, too, and thought I should get that tool you used for the orifice tube as well, and it's only $12 (part 27004) on Amazon. The step-by-step photos you have are going to be a great help.

    I also found this page when I was googling around, but unfortunately all the images links are broken.

    I haven't tried disconnecting the evaporator from the accumulator yet -- just the hose from the evaporator to the condenser at the evaporator, plus the other end of that hose that I successfully disconnected from the condenser today. I hosed it all down with PB Blaster for an attempt next weekend, after I get the aforementioned hose loose... I also got the impression that the evaporator/accumulator connection might be easier from the trunk after removing access cover, but I haven't taken that off yet (it's another piece that I JUST put back in a few weeks ago, too).

    And while I'm here, does anyone have any recommendations for a compressor for a 3.0L car? Apparently at some point I did some and decided a Sanden SD709 or SD7H15 (I think they're the same thing; mentioned in this thread) compatible is what the 3.0L needs, but I'm not sure about brand, or if there are differences I need to worry about, or anything like that.

    Thanks again!

    -- Joe
    Last edited by jangell; 01-28-2018 at 07:11 PM.

  10. #30
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,738

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    3M strip-calk p/n 051135-08578. (Black)

    Comes in 12Ē peel apart strips. Blue box.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •