Separating condenser hose from evaporator?

[jangell]

I decided to replace the AC system before tuning and test driving my 3.0L swap, and I’m starting by removing the three hoses.

I’m stuck on the one from the evaporator to the condenser. I got the nut off with a crows foot wrench, which was surprisingly easy. But I can’t actually get the hose to separate from the evaporator. The nut on the evaporator freely spins (with a wrench, anyway) and spins the attached threads with it, so it’s not friezes in place. I just cannot get the hose to release. I even tried prying with a pry bar against the accumulator fo leverage, but it will not budge.

Is there some trick to disconnecting this line?

Thanks!

— Joe

[DMC5180]

Are you replacing the hose and the evaporator or just hose?


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[jangell]

I’m going to convert to R134. I plan in replacing everything, but I wanted to keep the hose ends in case I have them made locally or need them for core swaps. I’m pretty sure everything in here is original. This weekend I’m just trying to get the hoses out.

I guess I could try to cut it out on the evaporator side, but I’m really curious about how to get these apart.

— Joe

[DMC5180]

I’m going to convert to R134. I plan in replacing everything, but I wanted to keep the hose ends in case I have them made locally or need them for core swaps. I’m pretty sure everything in here is original. This weekend I’m just trying to get the hoses out.

I guess I could try to cut it out on the evaporator side, but I’m really curious about how to get these apart.

— Joe

The Evap tube is aluminum, the hose fitting steel

If you can, carefully apply heat to the male nut. A heat gun or carefully placed propane torch flame. Put wet rags around the peripheral area. For protection.

If, you are going 134a, I prefer the modern barrier hose kit system supplied from DPI.

I also upgraded to the quieter Sanden SD7H15 Compressor.



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[jangell]

Worth a shot — thanks.

I just tried hitting it with a MAP torch briefly, before I realized how close the pressure switch harness was. A bit of melted rubber smell from that, but no damage. Might be worth trying again with more fire protection in there.

I also tried a heat gun, but it didn’t seem to do much I think I’m heating up the steel as much as the aluminum due to the space constraints. I might give it another try tomorrow. At worst, I’ll give up and cut it out. An A/C shop a few years back thought I had a leak at the evaporator anyway, which is why I’m doing all this in the first place (“while I’m in there...”)

But it should just come out, right? I just want to make sure I’m not missing something, like a lock or a spring release or something.

I’m definitely going to install barrier hoses. I don’t want to have to to keep recharging it all the time. I’ll be getting a compatible compressor as well, as I need something that works with the belts on the 3.0L engine.

Thanks!

— Joe

[DMC5180]

Worth a shot — thanks.

I just tried hitting it with a MAP torch briefly, before I realized how close the pressure switch harness was. A bit of melted rubber smell from that, but no damage. Might be worth trying again with more fire protection in there.

I also tried a heat gun, but it didn’t seem to do much I think I’m heating up the steel as much as the aluminum due to the space constraints. I might give it another try tomorrow. At worst, I’ll give up and cut it out. An A/C shop a few years back thought I had a leak at the evaporator anyway, which is why I’m doing all this in the first place (“while I’m in there...”)

But it should just come out, right? I just want to make sure I’m not missing something, like a lock or a spring release or something.

I’m definitely going to install barrier hoses. I don’t want to have to to keep recharging it all the time. I’ll be getting a compatible compressor as well, as I need something that works with the belts on the 3.0L engine.

Thanks!

— Joe

Use a wet rag to cool the steel tube.
You can also try some penetrating oil where the joint is.

Its just corrosion between the two causing them to be stuck together.

Frankly, there is no reason to try and save the steel hose ends. Try to put small vice grip up on the steel in the expanded diameter area.

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[Andrew]

There is no need to replace the evap coil when converting the system to 134a. They don't wear out. Frankly replacing the evap is a real PITA, thus, there is no reason that you shouldn't try to save it. Also the stock condenser provides good results with 134a. For example, On 5052 I'm running 134a in an otherwise stock system and I get 42 degrees at the vents.

I've used heat on the evaporator connections to get them apart, but if you use a torch be extremly careful as the fuel lines and tank are extremly close. Make sure to have a fire extinguisher or better yet a hose at the ready. It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it!

[DMC5180]

I agree, their is no reason to change Evaporator unless it has a leak or damaged Orifice tube pipe ( the one you are trying to get apart now )

You should at the very least drop the Blower motor out. Stick your phone up in the opening and take a photo of the Evaporator. You are looking too see how much debris has been deposited in there over the years.

Mine had quite a bit of ground up leaves and crud. The previous owner parked it outside a lot and had tall oak trees in his yard.


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[FABombjoy]

damaged Orifice tube pipe

Depending on your AC setup or how comfortable you are with deviating from stock, there are external orifice tube repair options, too.

Even damaged the orifice may still work, too. My tube is all gouged up (my own fault) but the O rings on the valve must have seated well enough as it cools without issue and doesn't freeze up.

[DMC5180]

Depending on your AC setup or how comfortable you are with deviating from stock, there are external orifice tube repair options, too.

Even damaged the orifice may still work, too. My tube is all gouged up (my own fault) but the O rings on the valve must have seated well enough as it cools without issue and doesn't freeze up.

My original was somewhat buggered up and had internal pit corrosion. I replaced it back in 2009.
A job I never wish to do again.


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