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Thread: Car will not start, smell fuel......

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  New Jersey

    Posts:    187

    Ok....here is what I did today.
    1) Cut off all the wire connectors at the ballast resistor, and installed new connector terminals. I also cleaned the ballast resistor. Reinstalled the wires back on the resistor in the correct order. I still could not start car.

    2) Cut off blue/yellow wire connector at the starter. Installed new connector terminals and cleaned the starter terminals. There was also another wire there I installed new terminal and cleaned that one as well. I still could not start car.

    3) unplugged the cold start valve plug and used the plug from the warm up regulator. I still could not start car.

    4) I made a wire jumper with a alligator clip on both ends. I attached one end to the coil + lug and the other to the positive jump start lug. I still could not start car.

    5) I jumped the RPM fuel relay so the pump would run. I still could not start car.

    6) As a last resort I pulled the air filter box and sprayed 2-3 shots of starting fluid into the manifold. The car still would not start.

    Can someone please help me out as what to check next.....

    Thanks a million!!!

  2. #12
    Senior Member Jonathan's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Canada

    Posts:    4,161

    My VIN:    3937

    Quote Originally Posted by coreydmc View Post
    Can someone please help me out as what to check next.....

    Thanks a million!!!
    If you have an automatic, there is a start inhibit feature with the shifter if it is not all the way up into Park.

    Sounds like it could be a bad inertia switch. Does your switch have a white spot of paint on it noting it as a recall replacement?

  3. #13
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    My VIN:    03572

    Did it fire at all after you shot the either?
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  New Jersey

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    Car is a 5 speed manual. No it will not start at all even if I try ether in the intake.... Is there anyway to bypass the inertia switch?

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    111

    You said spark was there but it didn't seem terribly strong. This sounds like a hint. Obviously too much fuel that isn't getting burnt which would typically mean lack of spark or air to prevent ignition.

    Since you have fresh spark plugs, I would look at the source of the spark. Take apart and clean the distributor contacts and inspect the plug wires, also make sure good battery cables free of corrosion.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    6,923

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by coreydmc View Post
    Car is a 5 speed manual. No it will not start at all even if I try ether in the intake.... Is there anyway to bypass the inertia switch?
    If it did not fire at all with the ether, your problem is most likely ignition. Try pulling and installing the bulk head connectors to check if there is a bad connection there (that will somewhat clean the pins and move the wires a little). You may have a bad ignition coil or ignition ECU but my next guess would be the ignition pickup coil connector. That is a two pin connector on the wire coming off your ignition distributor in the engine compartment. Mine was so bad I just cut it off and soldered the wires.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Mar 2014

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    415

    My VIN:    04194: 5-Speed, Black Int, 79 Peugeot 604 Manifold, 05052: 5-Speed, Gray Int, 78 Peugeot 604 manifol

    Does it try to start with the ether? At this point it might be very badly flooded, which of course only gets worse as the starting attempts continue. This has happened to me in the past. Try pulling one of the more accessible plugs. If is soaked in gas, the engine is flooded. There are a few options:

    1. You can let the car sit overnight to let the gas evaporate and give it another try tomorrow. While you wait, put an automatic trickle charger on the battery to make sure it is fully charged. (A lot of problems can be solved this way. Never underestimate the benefit of walking away and taking a fresh look at it the next day. Yes, I know this is easier said than done, especially when you want it to run, NOW, but take my word, it really can work!)

    2. You can pull the plugs and inspect / clean / dry them.

    A spark plug wire puller and a long (9 inch or so) 3/8 inch extension should be in any K-Jetted Delorean owner's toolbox. Those two tools make replacing the plugs much easier.

    Also, check the vacuum hoses to the warm-up regulator. Back when I was running K-jet, I had an issue with the warm up regulator hoses that caused significant starting difficulties.


    If you still have the stock coil, you can temporarily bypass the resistor to gain additional spark strength for testing purposes. You can't run the car stock coil with the grid bypassed for an extended period as it will fry the coil, but it should be okay for testing. I have done the relatively easy HEI conversion on both of my Deloreans years ago and no longer have resistors in either. I did the HEI mod on 4194 at least 10 years and 20,000 miles ago and have run without a resistor with zero adverse effects. The HEI mod is well-documented elsewhere, so I won't digress here.
    Last edited by Andrew; 01-30-2018 at 05:56 PM.
    Andrew
    4194 Since 7/98
    5052 Since 7/14

    1972 Buick Riviera
    1974 Bricklin SV-1 177
    1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 (4.2 I6, 4 Speed)
    1983 Pontiac Trans Am (Knight Rider Conversion in progress)
    1985 Oldsmobile Toronado (daily driver)

    Solex carb and antenna television guru.

    "My carbon footprint is bigger than yours!" :-)

  8. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  New Jersey

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    I checked the ignition pick up coil wire and its in good shape. I cleaned it anyway. I also pulled all the bulk head connections and cleaned/re-installed them. I also have the battery on trickle charge. I am going to buy some new parts: ignition coil, ballast resistor, distributor cap and rotor, and ignition pick up coil. How hard is it to replace the ignition pick up coil? Do I need to pull the intake etc...? The distributor is in such a tight spot and I dont want to mess with the timing.

  9. #19
    Delorean Guru
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    Location:  Northern NJ

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    Quote Originally Posted by coreydmc View Post
    I checked the ignition pick up coil wire and its in good shape. I cleaned it anyway. I also pulled all the bulk head connections and cleaned/re-installed them. I also have the battery on trickle charge. I am going to buy some new parts: ignition coil, ballast resistor, distributor cap and rotor, and ignition pick up coil. How hard is it to replace the ignition pick up coil? Do I need to pull the intake etc...? The distributor is in such a tight spot and I dont want to mess with the timing.
    If you are able to start it during cranking it sounds like the ignition system is working as long as the starter is running. I would test the ignition circuit to see that you are getting full voltage from the ignition key. Refer to M:18:03 and make sure you get 12 volts on the W wire when the key is in the run position. If not, follow it back to the main relay, see M:18:02. A terminal could have backed out, the relay may be bad, or some other wiring problem. Do NOT throw parts at it. Sounds like the secondary ignition system is OK, at least for now. If the pick-up coil was bad you would not have any spark at all.
    David Teitelbaum

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