Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: 10 year ownership. Time to do a major going over. What all would you do? LONG POST!!!

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Columbia SC

    Posts:    266

    My VIN:    1597

    10 year ownership. Time to do a major going over. What all would you do? LONG POST!!!

    1597 has been mine for 10 yrs this month. Pretty much everything gas or electricity touches has been replaced at one time or another. A very experienced mech and owner is the only reason she runs as well as she does. If you had the time and money what all would you have done? The below are estimated times and work done. At the BOTTOM are things IMO which need to be done. I also included SUGGESTIONS that I want to know if they are worth it.


    iNITIAL WORK DONE 2007.
    Ac serviced
    oil change/filter every spring. Drive approx 200 miles a month if that.
    Replaced steering bushing
    New front calipers
    Tail lights replaced with PJs
    Replaced heater valve
    New starter-
    Replaced all water hoses
    Replaced fuses,relays
    Cleaned all grounds.
    New plugs
    Replaced WUR
    Replaed rv mirror with wider one. Rv mirrors replaced with convex
    Airbox cover,cold air induction.
    Removed Exhaust manifolds
    Removed Exhaust manifold studs
    Drilled out broken manifold studs
    Installed new manifold studs
    Installed new exhaust manifold gaskets
    Installed exhaust manifolds
    Installed new SS starter heat shield
    Installed crossover pipe with new gaskets
    Replaced Oxygen sensor
    Installed CAT with new gaskets
    Straightened muffler brackets
    Exhales.....Takes breath
    Installed Muffler
    Installed new otterstat
    Repaired otterstat wiring
    Installed third brake light
    Tested fuel injector spray
    Installed new fuel injectors
    Installed SS fuel injector lines
    Installed new fuel filter
    Installed new supply line from filter to distributor
    Inspected fuel pump compartment
    Installed ignition cap & rotor
    Installed 8mm ignition wires
    Installed SS braided coil wire
    Installed new coil
    Installed slave cylinder
    Bled clutch hydraulics
    Adjusted clutch linkage, reverse now works
    Cleaned out valley
    Installed new vacuum solenoid
    Installed new vacuum hoses
    Installed new water pump
    Installed new water pump hoses
    Installed new Alternator
    Installed new alternator belt
    Installed new A/C belt
    Pressure tested coolant system
    Installed new emergency brake pads
    Installed new springs in rear, after Hervey shocks failed
    Installed new springs and shocks in the front
    Installed new tie rod ends
    Installed front end recall kit
    Removed rear foam.Dynamated rear wall,rear floor.
    New fuel pump kit. Johns kit
    Tabs replaced
    All new tires,balanced.
    New headliner kit from DMC. Waiting-DONE
    SS Throttle shield. SS door step outline full-DONE
    SS louver support
    Shift isolator installel. Also added dynamat.
    New Dmc GAS CAP
    15 POUND ss coolant cap.
    Spring
    Accumulator w/new flexible lines
    Gear oil change -
    replaced missing exhaust bolts, checked/tightened exhaust hangers, upper coolant hose bracket, otterstat, fill and bleed - 2hrs
    lower coolant bracket
    idler pulley bearings

    SUMMER 09
    A/C Compressor replaced.Hgh/low lines replaced. Accululator replaced.New orfice tube.Evacuated,recharged R134A.
    Fuel filter K&N filter Bosche Plat 4+ plugs. Cold start valve. Freq Valve.
    BF Goodrich Radial T/A 235/60/15 for the rears and 195/60/14 for the fronts.Rot/balance.
    Front tie rod ends. Front end align. Hood weather stripping.Fuel pump cover resealed/painted.

    Ron Fall 09 10/20

    INSTALLED KYB rear shocks with aluminum collars by Marty Maier - wingd2@aol.com
    Emergency brake fixed. Cable replaced,l&r pads checked and adjusted.Bulb replaced in dash.
    Angle drive "speedometer" replaced.
    Fuel distributor replaced with NEW rebuilt form SpecialT.
    Engine was tuned with fluke meter. Fuel pressures tested. Resting pressure testing performed.F injectors tested for spray pattern.
    Cold start valve tested ok.Timing tested.
    Fall - Door lights replaced with DMC LED lights.
    Front trunk wood floor added. Cut to size and painted with rubberised underbody paint "Lowes".
    DMC cold air induction hose added.

    12/9/09-Replaced Master cylinder. Hooked up antenna wire to windshield antenna which had been cut. Right front speaker wires were crimped down. They easily come loose so check if speaker does not work.
    12/28/09- Replaced front 2 speakers,unplugged rear 2 and wired up 2 box speakers.Unplugged non working windsheild antenna and hooked up "tune trapper" antenna.

    Rebuilt a/c mode switch. Replaced rubber seal. Used screw instead of plastic tack. NOTE- Any loss of vent air,hissing,check mode switch which may be unplugg

    THIS IS NOT A FULL LISTING BUT A IDEA.

    TIRES- Need new ones 10 yrs old. Spark plugs are at least 8 yrs old. Car accelerates strong and NO stalling. Car has ALWAYS had hot start issues when it's 90-100+ when sitting on black top. Fuel DIST CHANGED 3X, ACCUMULATOR 2X, still a mystery.
    Belts-5+ yrs old.
    Trans level replaced and checked last year 2017.
    a/c works normally.
    Anything else to CHECK FEEL FREE TO ADD...

    QUESTION.......... Is the dmc stage 1 or Josh's cosmetic or is it Worth the money. Realistic gains?? How about the EFI?

    SO if you had some money to spend what would be the things you would concentrate on. Sure, performance gains and handling are nice but most important is the car being SAFE and reliable.
    Sorry for the mini book but I have been recovering from major back surgeries and been putting this off WAY WAY to long. Thanks, Jim in SC.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by JIMJAM; 02-01-2018 at 11:53 AM.
    "Owning a Delorean is like frying bacon naked."

  2. #2
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,029

    My VIN:    03572

    iYour hot start issue sitting on the black top on 100 deg day would probably be fixed if you jumper the solid state RPM relay to "HOT START FIX". I had the same problem (three hours sitting and would not start). My RPM relay jumpered fixed that.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,215

    My VIN:    3937

    Things to do to keep it safe and reliable?

    ...well, what is the first thing to come to mind that you think might leave you stranded? What concerns you the most, either nuisance or otherwise?

    Sounds like the hot start issue is the top of that list from what you've said.

    If you don't have any lights, switches or features known to be broken, then you're looking for proactive stuff. I have mixed feelings about this as I've encountered more problems trying to replace something on my car proactively, then it would have been had I just left it alone.

    You might consider going into the valley, not just for the heck of it, but to clean things up, inspect and assess. Look for coolant sitting in there potentially rotting the top of the block. Confirm the electrical connections are good and clean and tight. If you go so far as to remove everything for that access, you could then replace those spark plugs quite easily. Perhaps too a new set of fuel lines. Most of the ones on top of the engine are very straight forward to replace. The ones underneath going between the accumulator, filter and engine are a little trickier.

    Trailing arm bolts (TABs) get lots of publicity for needing to inspect them and change them out. You might add those to your list of possible jobs for good car health and longevity.

    Other than that, what comes to mind the same way for cosmetic stuff? Like at a show or when a friend sees your car? What do people see immediately that needs attention? Or maybe it only grabs your attention and no one else really notices? Tears in the leather? Worn out dash or knee pads? Stereo head unit needs updating? Dents or scratches in the stainless?

    I just passed my ten year mark with the car too and have a similarly short list. Crucial stuff that is. Mostly the things I'm doing now are not terribly important and not safety related. Not directly anyway.

    What about a portable frying pan that runs off a 12 volt adapter that you could make BLTs on while out and about??


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,215

    My VIN:    3937

    Dave S. shared this with me years ago and not long after I got my car. Probably asking questions like "what should I do to my car?"

    I hope he won't mind me sharing it here with you.

    YEAR 1
    Rebuild the brakes including the master cylinder and the caliper hoses.
    Rebuild the fuel system (pump, accumulator, filter) unless it actually runs OK, at least replace all the rubber tank parts, filter and accumulator
    Rebuild the cooling system including clean out the valley. New radiator highly recommended. Metal coolant tank highly recommended. Water pump optional but recommended while you are in there.
    Auto trans governor, flush everything, seal up all the leaks.
    Clean all the grounds
    Tires less than a decade old. Newer is better.
    Clutch master/slave/SS line
    Relay/Fuse Update Kit, clean fuse sockets
    Alternator
    Metal Door Handles

    YEAR 2 - Anything else that is "deferred maintenance"
    30K maintenance aka tune-up/valve adjustment
    Transmission Leaks
    Door adjustments/alignments etc.
    Air Conditioner
    All the little broken things that don't work, but don't keep you from driving the car.
    Window Motors
    Battery

    YEAR 3 - Lower on the list but good to have
    Shocks and Springs, sway bar bushings.
    All the little appearance things that you see at car shows but nobody else notices
    Headliners
    Stereo
    Power Door locks

    WHENEVER - At the bottom of the list after you do everything else:
    Door launchers
    Thumping stereo
    Thumping Engine
    Lights under the car


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Columbia SC

    Posts:    266

    My VIN:    1597

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    iYour hot start issue sitting on the black top on 100 deg day would probably be fixed if you jumper the solid state RPM relay to "HOT START FIX". I had the same problem (three hours sitting and would not start). My RPM relay jumpered fixed that.
    I have had hot start issues from day one. You should know. How many countless hours have we spent. Vitons, 3 fuel dist, 2 of which were bad. All new f injectors, basically everything gas touched. Bottom line is the car HATES summer.

    I am sure I got one of your rpm relays but that was very early on. I have no clue what version I have or what you have now. Guess I need to check and also don;t remember a jumper. That said I NEVER fool with the relays unless I have no choice. I simply avoid that area if nothing is wrong.
    Last edited by JIMJAM; 02-01-2018 at 01:08 PM.
    "Owning a Delorean is like frying bacon naked."

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,029

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by JIMJAM View Post
    I have had hot start issues from day one. You should know. How many countless hours have we spent. Vitons, 3 fuel dist, 2 of which were bad. All new f injectors, basically everything gas touched. Bottom line is the car HATES summer.

    I am sure I got one of your rpm relays but that was very early on. I have no clue what version I have or what you have now. Guess I need to check and also don;t remember a jumper. That said I NEVER fool with the relays unless I have no choice. I simply avoid that area if nothing is wrong.
    I do remember you have my RPM relay. All versions had the "HOT START FIX". Just pop the case off it an look if the jumper is on the end terminal or moved in one pin.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #7
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2011

    Location:  Frisco, TX

    Posts:    656

    My VIN:    #1283

    Club(s):   (SCDC) (DCUK)

    I can see that you replaced fuses and relays but have you taken a look at your fuse block itself? I didn't realize how bad mine was until I lost my headlights one evening.
    VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
    Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU
    http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Columbia SC

    Posts:    266

    My VIN:    1597

    After 3 back surgeries my days of hunched over the engine much less that fuse area are over. Yes its a mess but leave well enough alone.

    As of now I posted a thread recently about what tires are popular as mine are 10 yrs old so I need to make a decision and order those.
    Brakes work well but hands off and hitting em hard the car does pull to the left.
    After running hard and restarting its running rich. I hot and in the sun it stumbles and if really hot will not start. Must take of breather and hit it with start fluid.
    The fuel pump is from Special T and at least 8 yrs old of not 10.
    Headlights are 10 yrs old and I have new ones still unopened but heard replacing them is a major PITA.
    Other than that I really just need to get under and make sure nothing is about to fall off, replace the belts, clean grounds,rotors are probably in bad shape.
    But before I do anything I need to stop putting off ordering tires and deal with that. Thanks for the replies so far.
    "Owning a Delorean is like frying bacon naked."

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

    Posts:    219

    My VIN:    4665

    Keep us updated on which tires you finally choose. I need to get my swapped out this year as well.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.

    Posts:    1,486

    My VIN:    0934

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    A few more things

    Good lists so far. Here are some more items, a few of which need to be checked from time to time.
    Sorry if any of these are dupes:

    SAFETY
    - Brake hoses (if original check for cracking, swelling, abrasion; if in doubt replace)
    - Ball joints - inspect and replace as needed
    - Throttle cable inspection at motor end - check for breaks in any of the cable strands because they only get worse and the broken strand kind of 'blossoms' until the throttle sticks open.

    RELIABILITY
    - Make sure that both of the rear door hinges do NOT touch their respective torsion bars. If there is contact then insert appropriate shim/spacer so as to avoid possible surface nicks in the bar which may lead to bar failure.
    - Add a light switch relay kit, the upgrade that reduces the current thru the OE light switch so it can't melt/fail.

    Left off maintenance items like angle drive lube, brake fluid flush/fill. Looks like you're on top of that.
    Last edited by Rich; 02-02-2018 at 08:06 PM.
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •