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Thread: Bosch iBooster Retrofit

  1. #11
    Customized Member 81dmc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oudevolvo View Post
    Wow, great job, impressive. Thanks for sharing. Now I want this in my Volvo Amazon too. Hope you can help me out by sharing some more details.
    What is the part number of the big ECU connector or perhaps even, do you have the links for purchasing the housing and crimp pins?
    Thanks in advance.
    No problem! Here's the info I gave to another asking the same question via PM.


    Quote Originally Posted by 81dmc
    Midsize pin for connector This pin needs to be trimmed to fit. I couldn't find the correct one.:
    https://m.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-BDK-2-8...S/132378925515


    Large pin for connector:
    https://nexelec.com/BOSCH-1928498807/


    Small pin for connector:
    https://nexelec.com/BOSCH-1928498705/


    And finally, the connector:
    https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32706325552.html
    Rodolfo
    VR6 Swap in Progress...
    Delorean.eu Roof Box, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster w/Cruise, QA1 Suspension.

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

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    This is really cool. I'd also like to do it at some point, but I have a few questions:

    Did you wind up sticking with the Chevy Volt reservoir, or going with another solution?

    You said you re-flared the brake lines. I'm curious what is involved with that, or if you could just get adaptors (I mean, since you had to get M10 to M12 adaptors anyway...).

    Do the stock brake lines happen to reach the iBooster as-is, or did you have to fabricate them to get them to where they needed to be?

    I'm also wondering about the pedal travel sensor; what did you do for that? I see you mentioned the connector, but I don't see anything about the sensor itself.

    I'm also curious about how you wired the connector to the car. It looks like the four wires for the travel sensor, and I guess all the "Fused B+" wires go to 12v, and the two ground wires to ground... and that's it? I assume the ignition control/start is to make sure your foot is on the brake when you start the car, similar to the start inhibit relay on automatic DMCs. And the rest looks like CANbus pins.

    Thanks!

    -- Joe

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

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    Responding to myself: I googled re-flaring and found out that double flare kits are inexpensive, and that it's pretty easy to bend brake line into whatever shape you need, as long as you're careful not to crease them or to bend them so far that they tear open. So that answers that bit.

    -- Joe
    Last edited by jangell; 08-06-2018 at 03:43 PM.

  4. #14
    Customized Member 81dmc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    This is really cool. I'd also like to do it at some point, but I have a few questions:

    Did you wind up sticking with the Chevy Volt reservoir, or going with another solution?
    I stuck with it for now, but it is unfortunately too tall. If I can eventually get my hands on a reservoir from a model 3, I will change it to that. (It is lower profile)

    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    You said you re-flared the brake lines. I'm curious what is involved with that, or if you could just get adaptors (I mean, since you had to get M10 to M12 adaptors anyway...).
    AFAIK, no one sells the necessary adapter to avoid reflare. Only way is the double flare and use the m10 to m12 adapter.

    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    Do the stock brake lines happen to reach the iBooster as-is, or did you have to fabricate them to get them to where they needed to be?
    I replaced the front brake line that comes from the tee fitting because it is accessible. As for the rear, I reused it, but it is tight! At least too much for my comfort. Going to replace that when I lift the body for the engine swap...

    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    I'm also wondering about the pedal travel sensor; what did you do for that? I see you mentioned the connector, but I don't see anything about the sensor itself.
    The travel sensor is integrated into the booster. You just have to wire it up to the big connector.

    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    I'm also curious about how you wired the connector to the car. It looks like the four wires for the travel sensor, and I guess all the "Fused B+" wires go to 12v, and the two ground wires to ground... and that's it? I assume the ignition control/start is to make sure your foot is on the brake when you start the car, similar to the start inhibit relay on automatic DMCs. And the rest looks like CANbus pins.
    All fused b+ pin are for 12v constant. The "run/start control output" is the 12v switched output wire from the ignition switch. I recommend using the run position 12v output. Chryslers diagrams have a weird name for switched 12v...
    Rodolfo
    VR6 Swap in Progress...
    Delorean.eu Roof Box, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster w/Cruise, QA1 Suspension.

  5. #15
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2018

    Location:  The Netherlands

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    Quote Originally Posted by 81dmc View Post
    No problem! Here's the info I gave to another asking the same question via PM.
    Thanks! I managed to get my hands on an iBooster with the original ECU connector still attached.
    That one has part number 1928405762
    If anyone is interested, here is the datasheet for that family
    https://gs-gsconnector-us.resource.b...1928A00508.pdf
    There appear to be three types:
    Bosch-iBooster-connectors.jpg
    Looking at those images the key-ing on the side is different.
    So actually I'm quite surprised the 1928405763 from Aliexpress actually fits.
    Good to hear that it does!

  6. #16
    Customized Member 81dmc's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2013

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    I know other vehicles have different keying, but the connector found on Aliexpress will work for sure with the Gen 1 Tesla ibooster.
    Rodolfo
    VR6 Swap in Progress...
    Delorean.eu Roof Box, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster w/Cruise, QA1 Suspension.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    597

    My VIN:    767

    Quote Originally Posted by 81dmc View Post
    I stuck with it for now, but it is unfortunately too tall. If I can eventually get my hands on a reservoir from a model 3, I will change it to that. (It is lower profile)
    Cool, good to know.

    AFAIK, no one sells the necessary adapter to avoid reflare. Only way is the double flare and use the m10 to m12 adapter.
    No problem -- I didn't realize how common and straight-forward reflaring is. Doesn't seem like much of a problem.

    I replaced the front brake line that comes from the tee fitting because it is accessible. As for the rear, I reused it, but it is tight! At least too much for my comfort. Going to replace that when I lift the body for the engine swap...
    I need to redo my brakes more fully at some point (weird thing where the first press of the pedal is soft, but works, and the next press is hard; after ~20 seconds of driving again, it resets and does the soft-then-hard thing again), so I was thinking of installing the iBooster at the same time.

    I guess that rear line runs between the body and the frame? That sounds like fun... And I just replaced my A/C lines, too.

    But the real question now is how you found an iBooster for $80 -- the ones I see on eBay are in the $700 range. It seems these are only used on the autopilot-capable Teslas, and a simpler (but larger) $200 one is used on basic package.

    The travel sensor is integrated into the booster. You just have to wire it up to the big connector.
    Ah, I see -- I'm guessing those wires were probably part of a larger Tesla harness, which is why it wasn't included with the booster. Makes sense. I was surprised it wasn't wired internally until I realized they literally just took two off-the-shelf parts and combined them into the same package.

    All fused b+ pin are for 12v constant. The "run/start control output" is the 12v switched output wire from the ignition switch. I recommend using the run position 12v output. Chryslers diagrams have a weird name for switched 12v...
    The "output" name threw me off for the switched 12v. I guess the 12v constant is so that you get the booster even if the car is off, and the switched tells it that it can do more active communication over CANbus or whatever.

    The pinout looked complicated at a glance, but it sounds like it's actually rather simple. I'm guessing all the "fused b+" pins are just to get enough current for the electric motor over the normally thin wires.

    Thanks!

    -- Joe
    Last edited by jangell; 08-07-2018 at 12:54 PM.

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