Bosch iBooster Retrofit

[powerline84]

"Tesla Tax". Lol funny cause it's true

[Josh]

My iBooster came in yesterday. Once again it is a GEN1 from a Honda CRV and can be had for much cheaper than any of the Tesla boosters, while being very similar.
I still have some work to do to mount the master cylinder to the booster and make the clevis rod but the booster itself is mounted.

Notes:
-Bolt pattern is on a 80mm x 60mm rectangle
-Pedal Clevis has M10x1.5 threads, it can easily be extended with a coupling nut, stud/rod, and a metric clevis.
-I will not be using it, but the CR-V master and reservoir fit under the trunk floor panel.
-I had a mild to moderate interference between the bottom of the ibooster and the top of the fuel tank. I tightened everything up and it is sitting where it needs to be but it is an item of concern. This is due to the mounting plate being lower profile than the tesla one. I think I may need to make a spacer. It is a flat plate for the CR-V, but a thick casting for the tesla.

Pictures:

[Reinsch]

Thanks for remarks and photos.

Do you recall clearance between stock Delorean booster and tank/frame before swap ?

In your opinion, knowing that iBooster gen2 (Tesla model 3/Y) is hanging lower by about 35mm to stock Delorean booster, does it have chance to fit?

Looking on photos and dimensions from previous posts, GEN1 sits slightly higher than GEN2, so considering your comments, I would conclude that chances are rather low, unless you tilt ibooster few degrees?

[RamblinDMC]

I installed my Ibooster yesterday. I still have to bleed the brakes but I'm looking forward to seeing how it changes braking performance.

Also I made a clevis/rod setup that seems to work really nicely. If anybody wants a clevis/rod, I ordered extra parts and I have enough to put together a couple more.

20201124_205930.jpg20201124_205911.jpg

[Josh]

Those electrical connections make me nervous. Also, it looks like you are using a 10mm clevis whereas the brake pedal box linkage accepts a 1/2" Pin.
I understand this all works, but imo brakes are not worth messing around with.

[Josh]

Thanks for remarks and photos.

Do you recall clearance between stock Delorean booster and tank/frame before swap ?

In your opinion, knowing that iBooster gen2 (Tesla model 3/Y) is hanging lower by about 35mm to stock Delorean booster, does it have chance to fit?

Looking on photos and dimensions from previous posts, GEN1 sits slightly higher than GEN2, so considering your comments, I would conclude that chances are rather low, unless you tilt ibooster few degrees?

I cant really answer much about the Gen2 booster as I never went this direction. But with the Gen 1 there is very little room in any direction.
I would not tilt the booster much more as it puts the pushrod off center.

[RamblinDMC]

The clevis pin is the correct size. It 1/2 inch.

[81dmc]

The Tesla unit is a perfect match for the DeLorean. The longer mounting plate allows the unit to clear the fuel tank. Refer to my picture below.
E954DC5E-AC1E-4B8E-869E-63D0EB233EC6.jpeg


Now look at Josh’s CRV booster picture below. The shorter mounting foot pulls the unit too close to the car which in turn, causes the unit to hit the fuel tank.
DD1737CC-E06E-4EA1-AA84-9CEED2AEE6E0.jpg


You can swap the mounting plate from a Tesla booster, but good luck finding one. The best thing I can recommend is making a spacer plate.

[Reinsch]

You can scrap both (bracket and adapter) and make one from scratch that is stiffer and offsets ibooster accordingly.

From what I've read, stock bracket and dash panel itself can flex under heavy braking (easy to check, just press brake pedal hard with ignition off and second person looking on booster). It is not complex part that can be easily fabricated to better standard.

[Josh]

The Tesla unit is a perfect match for the DeLorean. The longer mounting plate allows the unit to clear the fuel tank. Refer to my picture below.
E954DC5E-AC1E-4B8E-869E-63D0EB233EC6.jpeg


Now look at Josh’s CRV booster picture below. The shorter mounting foot pulls the unit too close to the car which in turn, causes the unit to hit the fuel tank.
DD1737CC-E06E-4EA1-AA84-9CEED2AEE6E0.jpg


You can swap the mounting plate from a Tesla booster, but good luck finding one. The best thing I can recommend is making a spacer plate.

That was sorted out rather quickly, good eye. Ill make up a spacer plate that uses the stock booster bolt pattern (M8, 90mm square), so no holes need to be drilled next time.

That being said Marek is right, the stock mount is pretty flimsy. A stronger one could be fabricated with relative ease. I see DPI makes a nice upgraded one, its substantially thicker. https://deloreanindustries.com/12-br...powder-coated/


If someone could measure the thickness of the Tesla adapter that would be VERY helpful. Jimmy?