Thanks for the input guys! I have recently acquired the aluminum to make the pieces, need to get the lathe fired up and make the first version.
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
Thanks for the input guys! I have recently acquired the aluminum to make the pieces, need to get the lathe fired up and make the first version.
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
[email protected]
lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Location: UK
Posts: 25
possible issues :
- The iBooster stroke might be different then the stroke of the Delorean master cylinder - you better off with matched units otherwise you risk damaging the master cylinder especially during bleeding. There is also an issue of bore size matching. Someone previously wrote that pedal stroke is now shorter... In extreme condition you might run out of pedal travel (iBooster stroke) sooner than you utilize whole stroke of a DeLorean master cylinder (not using full potential of possible pressure-->clamping force). Note that iBooster master cylinder is much shorter.
- Pin/rod from iBooster is different length then pin/rod of stock booster, might be a pain to extend that. From looking it will be rather hard to replace the push pin as you need to take apart the iBooster. I did not see any adjustment there. Nowadays parts "just fit", no time to adjust anything on the assembly line, they are just precisely made.
Issue of reservoir tank can be solved easily in few ways previously mentioned:
- remote tank(s). either from other vehicle or you can machine fittings and move current unit to appropriate place and connect everything with hose. Tank needs to be located higher than the master cylinder (rather obvious). Clutch system is using a brake fluid too, so you might get a 3 section tank and locate it next to a fuel filler.
- find a tank that fits (anything that has Gen1 iBooster)
- brake bias - you can get a choking valve or verify if new 50/50 is actually OK.
For a future-proofing, you might actually want to have a new master cylinder, as they are more likely to still be on the market (and cheaper) then an old Delorean units in 10 years.
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Marek
Reinsch Engineering Limited (UK)
restomod #vin4454
Build HERE
.
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
The push rod does need to be extended, I have removed it with relative ease. Making a longer one.
There still is not a solution for a reservoir with the tesla or similar master cylinder. Changing out the master means fussing with brake fluid and bleeding the brakes etc. Makes the job messy when it does not need to.
As for travel, there is less because you have more of an assisted advantage with the ibooster. no need to push the pedal to the floor. This will not be a concern regardless of the master cylinder.
We should both get back to working on our cars, all this means nothing if you dont have it on a running driving car...
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
[email protected]
lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
Finally made a final version of my Ibooster concept. Once again this uses the Gen1 booster, which can be found from a few sources but most cost effectively a Honda CRV.
No re-drilling the booster extension, no adapting brake lines, no need to crack a brake line, rebleed the system etc. Fully reversible.
Here are the components required:
Fully Assembled:
Extended Pushrod:
Brake Clevis and extension mount, hooks up just like the stock vacuum booster:
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
[email protected]
lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
That is a thing of beauty.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 255
Nice!
My You Tube Channel
https://youtube.com/@timelesssteelga...fOpBaYJDtDlkQx
My Build
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...-s-20-year-nap
Location: UK
Posts: 25
I've decided to develop the bracket with a correct angle which is important to avoid premature wear of piston on ibooster bore. I've spoken with my colleague who is a brake engineer and told me that I should stay under 3 degrees (angle between push shaft and bore axis). The packaging looked also very tight, so I've decided to maximize clearance to the fuel tank.
Thanks to 3D scanning of the body, frame, and ibooster I was able to develop the correct bracket that fulfills all the above goals.
Body with the front of the chassis, look from top
Body view from under the vehicle
iBooster gen1 from RHD Model S
Fabricated bracket with iBooster mounted to my vehicle
Clearance to the body
Clearance to the fuel tank (Tank is covered with heat reflective material. My system in returnless due to the nature of my new engine)
Pedal box with new clevis and extended shaft
Engineering behind it
I will be making research on reservoir tanks, but will possibly try the model X one.
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Marek
Reinsch Engineering Limited (UK)
restomod #vin4454
Build HERE
.
Location: FL
Posts: 947
My VIN: Early
I’m really just amazed where this has gone. I started with a redneck retrofit, and now it’s being properly engineered into the car with CNC parts.
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3
Location: FL
Posts: 947
My VIN: Early
Just an update guys.
Looks like the new Model Y master cylinder will work better in the DeLorean. It has the ports on the correct side and a low profile reservoir.
pics are from eBay.
230F8CBC-EC62-4B12-A732-D5D8B0ADCA7D.jpgB48F3D68-F3A0-4DE0-8089-33FF7AA37A39.jpg
I’ll get my hands on one someday to install on my gen 1 ibooster.
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3