That was a bit of a rollercoaster ride lol. So why will the newer master cylinders not fit on the GEN1 booster?
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
That was a bit of a rollercoaster ride lol. So why will the newer master cylinders not fit on the GEN1 booster?
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Location: FL
Posts: 948
My VIN: Early
Roll coaster it was...Got all excited, then was let down considerably.
The base of the newer master is smaller in diameter, and the flanges are farther from center. The Gen 2 booster basically uses the same masters that bolt to some Bosch vacuum boosters.
The wonky setup is the Gen 1 iBooster... It uses a specific design of master cylinder I have never seen anywhere else.
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3
I have to give props to Marek. His gen 1 model s ibooster mount is a top notch piece. Significantly stronger then factory.
No fuss with having to drill holes. Proper angle. I booster slides right on. Mounts up to body like factory. Save yourself the hassle and just buy one of these.
PXL_20210623_235842504.jpgPXL_20210623_235844859.jpgPXL_20210623_235851012.jpgPXL_20210623_235847440.jpgPXL_20210624_000842883.jpg
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Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
[email protected]
lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Location: UK
Posts: 25
Tank from iBooster gen 2 will fit to iBooster gen1.
If model 3/Y tank is currently the best known solution imo.
I fitted gen2 tank from a Nissan, but only due to the level sensor that was missing from my Model S tank.
There is big chance that many thanks from Bosch masters will fit. Got another one to try on that is quite low.
Remember that Tesla Model S RHD has ports on a correct side. Few available on eBay in Europe. I bought mine from Lithuania together with harness connectors.
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Marek
Reinsch Engineering Limited (UK)
restomod #vin4454
Build HERE
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Posts: 3
Hello I have fitted the IBooster from a 2017 Honda CRV to my Ultima Evolution . The booster is working but I have a soft pedal. I used a professional pressure brake bleeder and I have no more air coming out the wheel bleed screws. Normally on a car with a vacuum booster the pedal would be rock hard after pressure bleeding. Do I have to bleed the brakes manually to get the air out. By manually I mean depress the brake pedal and then open a bleed screw, lock it release the brake pedal and replete over and over.
Ray.
Posts: 255
Location: UK
Posts: 25
in my particular case, I was dealing with all brand new and dry brake lines, also all rebuild calipers, so theoretically it should be harder to remove any air bubbles.
The first step was to "bench bleed" the master cylinder as per the photo - you basically run brake fluid back to the reservoir tank. It's quite important when dealing with the dry master cylinders.
You do it gently, but with full strokes, until you don't see any bubbles coming out in the tube (that's why it's good to have it transparent).
Once that was done I've connected my main lines, and vacuum bleed each caliper starting with those on the back.
After that, I've energized the iBooster and pumped the brakes many times including some time with the pedal pressed.
Vacuum bleed again after that for sanity.
The pedal is nice and firm. The test drive to be done in a few weeks as I finally have my custom muffler.
I run ibooster with its stock master cylinder.
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Marek
Reinsch Engineering Limited (UK)
restomod #vin4454
Build HERE
.
Posts: 3
Posts: 3