No spark

[Gruffalo]

Hi!

Installed the Ignition tester light between a spark plug and the wire from distributor.
Cranked the egnine. No spark, except from when I shut of the ignition. (On one of the two plug wires I checked)

I’ve read about that exact same symptom in a different “no spark” thread here on dmctalk. Or maybe on the eurotech forum.

Sadly I don’t remember what the cause was...


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[Bullitt]

Checking spark from coil to distributor:
https://www.facebook.com/sveinapelan...382510259/?t=0

Checking spark on plugs:
https://www.facebook.com/sveinapelan...393000259/?t=0

Connected a test light between negative post on coil and battery positive post to see if light flashes on and off, meaning Pickup and ECU should be ok:
https://www.facebook.com/sveinapelan...399200259/?t=0

[DMC5180]

Did you ever get spark to jump from the coil tower to a ground or neg post on the coil?


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[Ron]

Either coil should spark according to those readings....try the test I posted above to confirm if the below doesn't help.

If the battery will crank the engine over ok by itself, it is hot enough for spark.

...
Put a Ignition tester light between distributor and wire from coil to distributor, and it glows while I crank.
I pull off the distributor cap and inspect the rotor an cap, and find some oxidation. (I am going to buy new ones, but I don't have them at hand right now)
i brushed off the oxidation and cleaned them up. Checked that the rotor in fact turns while I crank.
Put the rotor and cap back on.
Installed the Ignition tester light between a spark plug and the wire from distributor.
Cranked the egnine. No spark, except from when I shut of the ignition. (On one of the two plug wires I checked)
Hoped the cleaning of the cap and rotor should give me some spark in the test light.....

Read somewhere that if you put an ice pick light tester on the negative post on coil and on to the positive battery cable post, the light should go off and on while cranking,
It did, but I would not say it went off, but rather that the light dimmed off and on..... If this happend that meant that the ECU should be good, as the TACH reading also said.

Mesured the resictance in the pick up coil, which fluctuated while I was cranking, mening that the pick up coil should be good as well. (I read somewhere....)

Keep in mind I disconnected the RPM relay to stop fuel pump while cranking. (Or does the RPM relay have anything to say on the ignition?


Any input?

Sparking only when you shut the ignition off suggests that the coils trigger circuit is always grounded. (It would fire whichever plug the rotor happened to be pointed at when the key was turned to OFF.) But if that were the case, the ignition tester (and tach) shouldn't be indicating continuous spark while you crank it over.
So, the only thing I can think of that may fit is a cap with its coil terminal shorted to the plug terminal feeding the only plug you are seeing fire...

=====

No. The ignition doesn't need the RPM relay.
If there are no shorted wires etc. between them it doesn't matter WRT no spark. The relay uses the tach signal to know it is ok to supply power to the fuel pump and CPR.

P.S. Your Facebook links require an account....

[Bullitt]

Either coil should spark according to those readings....try the test I posted above to confirm if the below doesn't help.

If the battery will crank the engine over ok by itself, it is hot enough for spark.

Sparking only when you shut the ignition off suggests that the coils trigger circuit is always grounded. (It would fire whichever plug the rotor happened to be pointed at when the key was turned to OFF.) But if that were the case, the ignition tester (and tach) shouldn't be indicating continuous spark while you crank it over.
So, the only thing I can think of that may fit is a cap with its coil terminal shorted to the plug terminal feeding the only plug you are seeing fire...

=====

No. The ignition doesn't need the RPM relay.
If there are no shorted wires etc. between them it doesn't matter WRT no spark. The relay uses the tach signal to know it is ok to supply power to the fuel pump and CPR.

P.S. Your Facebook links require an account....

Hey!

Sorry Ron, I totally missed your earlier post.
I will try that today.

Ill post the videos here.

[Bullitt]

Testing Distributor from negative terminal to battery positive post Delorean
https://youtu.be/oHRR7ZB-ufs

Testing spark from coil wire to distributor cap Delorean
https://youtu.be/bmkuDlzQZ0A

Testing spark from sparkplug wire to sparkplug Delorean
https://youtu.be/x3NxgwJnDpI

[minispeedstar]

Was the king lead from the coil to the distributor ever changed? Or is it still the old red one?

[Bullitt]

Was the king lead from the coil to the distributor ever changed? Or is it still the old red one?

Well... Its barely used, but bought 8 years ago. Thinking of the condition the cap and rotor is in, I ordered new wires and plugs with the cap and rotor.

Last time it would not start it was exactly this I had to change. This was right before I started the restoration.

[minispeedstar]

Original NOS? As I've found they don't age well if it's an original red type lead.

[Bullitt]

Original NOS? As I've found they don't age well if it's an original red type lead.

Nope, it was black.. That is all I know!