No spark

[Bitsyncmaster]

Does the engine fire at all. I guess every assumed no because you said no start.

[Jonathan]

Sequence is correct.

As far as I remember the car started after swapping relays. Then it stood for a few days and would not start again.

25 for low beam, 30 for high beam.

Ok, got it. The description that is. As for troubleshooting though, very few things would up and fail on a car that is "just sitting" there. A dead battery comes to mind, but not much else.

So, if it isn't a battery issue or some other idea someone might have about issues that could arise from a few days of sitting, then I'd assume we missed something that happened or was misinterpreted.

I still think it would be helpful if you posted some photos of the fuse and relay area, engine bay area including specific focus on the ballast resistor as well as the ignition coil, and perhaps the instrument cluster when you have the key turned to accessories (but not all the way to start the engine).

Oh, also, what changes were needed to accommodate these upgraded sealed beam headlights?

[David T]

Just to verify, you are checking the voltage on the WY wire, the wire that goes from the ballast resistor to the + terminal on the coil. You are getting less than 6 volts there with the key on, NOT cranking, and the battery voltage (with everything off) is over 11 volts. Try it with the other wire on the coil, the WS wire connected and not connected. If you do not get enough voltage to the coil you will not get any spark. Also recheck the connections to the ballast resistor. There is a schematic in your Service Manual at M:18:03. If you have sufficient voltage to the coil, and it is a good coil, the problem will be either in the wiring to the ECU module, the pick-up coil, or a problem in the distributor. Rare for the ECU to fail and the pick-up coil most often fails when it gets warm, not when it is cold. Wiring problems, especially at connectors, seems to be the most often cause for electrical problems.

[Bullitt]

Just to verify, you are checking the voltage on the WY wire, the wire that goes from the ballast resistor to the + terminal on the coil. You are getting less than 6 volts there with the key on, NOT cranking, and the battery voltage (with everything off) is over 11 volts. Try it with the other wire on the coil, the WS wire connected and not connected. If you do not get enough voltage to the coil you will not get any spark. Also recheck the connections to the ballast resistor. There is a schematic in your Service Manual at M:18:03. If you have sufficient voltage to the coil, and it is a good coil, the problem will be either in the wiring to the ECU module, the pick-up coil, or a problem in the distributor. Rare for the ECU to fail and the pick-up coil most often fails when it gets warm, not when it is cold. Wiring problems, especially at connectors, seems to be the most often cause for electrical problems.

Hmm.. Now i get 8,5 Volts on the + terminal. - terminal is just under 12 after cranking a few times

[Bullitt]

Ok, got it. The description that is. As for troubleshooting though, very few things would up and fail on a car that is "just sitting" there. A dead battery comes to mind, but not much else.

So, if it isn't a battery issue or some other idea someone might have about issues that could arise from a few days of sitting, then I'd assume we missed something that happened or was misinterpreted.

I still think it would be helpful if you posted some photos of the fuse and relay area, engine bay area including specific focus on the ballast resistor as well as the ignition coil, and perhaps the instrument cluster when you have the key turned to accessories (but not all the way to start the engine).

Oh, also, what changes were needed to accommodate these upgraded sealed beam headlights?

Will take photos. The change from sealed beam wss already done when I bought the car. But now I have a new main harness with standard fuses

[Bullitt]

According to manual if voltage between terminal 1 on coil and ground shows less than 0,5V there is a short circuit in ECU module. Mine shows 4,5V.... (Battery Voltage over 12V)

I Meant 0,45V...

[Bullitt]

Things got a little mixed up..

Terminal 1 - on coil has 0,45V to ground with ignition on.

Terminal 15 + on coil has 4,5V to ground with ignition on

Terminal 1 - on coil has 12V to battery + post with ignition on

Terminal 15 + on coil has 8,5V to battery + post with ignition on

Both terminals have 0V to ground with ignition off

Both terminals have 12,6V to battery + post with ignition off

[Bullitt]

Photos...
DSC_0030.jpgDSC_0020.jpgDSC_0021.jpgDSC_0022.jpgDSC_0023.jpgDSC_0024.jpgDSC_0025.jpgDSC_0026.jpgDSC_0028.jpgDSC_0029.jpgDSC_0019.jpg

[Bullitt]

The tach moves when I cranck up the car. I read somwhere that was a give away that the ECU was not bad.

I connected a test light to the plug for the distributor pickup coil, and had someone cranking the car. No pulsing light... Does that mean it is the pickup coil then? If i did this right...

[DMC5180]

If you don’t have a functioning pick up coil your RPM relay would not work either. The RPM relay relies on the pick up coil signal too turn the fuel pump on. Have verified the FP is operating? Or, that you at least you get a strong fuel smell from the exhaust after cranking.


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