Rear carrier Hub / upper - lower link Questions

[Trstno1]

Hey guys -

As some of you know, I have been spending this winter rebuilding my rear suspension. Now that I have all of the parts back from being cleaned up I am ready for things to go back together. Though I have a couple of questions....

1. My rear hub carriers have new bearings pressed in. How do I get the outer drive shaft back in without destroying the new bearings?

2. How much and what sort of grease should I use on the upper/lower link bolts when re-installing the links?

3. Are there any tips or things I should know about when re-installing the new rear shocks/springs?

Thanks for all of your help!

[Josh]

The stub shafts also need to be pressed in. Ensure the nut it properly torqued to 270ft-lbs with red loc tite. I strongly recommend buying a new nut.

I dont use any grease, the bolt should slide right in if everything is lined up.

Installation of the rear springs and shocks is pretty straight forward, a spring compressor helps but not entirely necessary. MUCH easier than the front springs/shocks.

[Mark D]

Hey guys -

As some of you know, I have been spending this winter rebuilding my rear suspension. Now that I have all of the parts back from being cleaned up I am ready for things to go back together. Though I have a couple of questions....

1. My rear hub carriers have new bearings pressed in. How do I get the outer drive shaft back in without destroying the new bearings?

2. How much and what sort of grease should I use on the upper/lower link bolts when re-installing the links?

3. Are there any tips or things I should know about when re-installing the new rear shocks/springs?

Thanks for all of your help!

You'll most likely need a press to get the rear drive shafts installed into the hub carriers. I used a press on mine, supporting the inner race of the bearing from below and pressing the shaft in from the top.





The lower ring that supports the bearing is part of a ball joint press kit you can rent from most parts stores, or buy from harbor freight.





https://www.harborfreight.com/14-Pie...Set-62785.html

[Trstno1]

I guess I'll have to find a place to take them to get pressed in.

Thanks for the responses.

[SS Spoiler]

Did this 25 or so years ago replaced rear wheel bearings
on the car without removing the rear hub carrier. Removed
brakes, axles and calipers. Made a poor man bearing press
with an old garbage disposal housing, big washers and a long
threaded rod. Beings the bearings were bad I used a propane
torch to heat the carrier hub to expand it enough to drive the
stub axle and what was left of the bearing race out. using my
redneck press I eased the shell of the bearing out.
Now to assemble everything. I put the stub axles in the
freezer for two days, then I gently heated the bearings so it
would slip over the stub axle. Now I put the axle with the
bearing back in the freezer for two days. Then I heated the
aluminum rear carrier hub with the torch and slipped the cold
axle and bearing in with no problem. In all fairness I did ruin
one bearing before it was all done. Still running on them...

[Josh]

I would strongly discourage removing the bearing with heat. The hub carrier is not the best quality aluminum and 35+ years old, very risky.

a 20Ton press at harbor freight is very affordable and a great investment. I bought one to do my bearings and it has paid itself off many times over.

[dn010]

+1. I found this out the hard way by breaking the RH carrier a long time ago- they're even more expensive today to replace.

I would strongly discourage removing the bearing with heat. The hub carrier is not the best quality aluminum and 35+ years old, very risky.

a 20Ton press at harbor freight is very affordable and a great investment. I bought one to do my bearings and it has paid itself off many times over.

[Josh]

+1. I found this out the hard way by breaking the RH carrier a long time ago- they're even more expensive today to replace.

I had to replace a rear hub carrier with a hairline crack in it, I assume it is from the PO improperly changing the bearings.
The RH side is NLA, and the LH side is $500 I believe. So well worth taking your time and doing it properly.

[Mark D]

I guess I'll have to find a place to take them to get pressed in.

Thanks for the responses.

A small hydraulic press is a lot cheaper than you think and you'll be amazed at all the other uses you'll find for it once you have it. The 12 ton version I have was around 100 bucks at harbor freight when I got it 10 years ago. Looks like they are going for around 130 now but you can usually find a 20% off coupon online. The 20 ton version would have been nice but so far the 12 hasn't let me down on any of the car related projects I've worked on.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ydraulics.html

[dn010]

I find that the HF jacks are shit. I've been through two of their 20 ton jacks already. The press on the other hand is great though, it has handled everything I've thrown at it.