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Thread: Bad squeaky sound, probably bent crank (3.0L)

  1. #31
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

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    I have an update on the flex plate. My friend was able to mount it on a tire balancer, and recorded this video showing it wobbling. This suggests pretty strongly that the flex plate itself is bent.

    (in case that doesn't embed: https://youtu.be/Zo2_0gSt0cs )

    So it looks like I'm in the market for a new flex plate again ($400 for NOS from DMC, it seems). My friend only tested the one, but the fact that both plates were wobbling in the same way on the engine concerns me a little. I'm not really sure how it would have gotten bent, or if I have to worry that, say, the torque converter is somehow damaging it. Obviously I don't want to get a new one just to have it bend again.

    Thanks again. We'll be checking the oil pump out on Sunday morning. I hope to order all the new parts on Monday for installation next weekend.

    -- Joe

  2. #32
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    $.02
    The converter itself would be low in my list.
    I'd more suspect using the flexplate to hold the crank during dis/reassembly or a clearance problem while separating/joining the engine-trans.

  3. #33
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

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    I may well have damaged something during installation. I donít think I tried to tighten the main crank nut with this flex plate (I did that with the other, and bent it), but this was a (supposedly good) used one, and I may have still screwed something up. My much more experienced friend will be installing the new one when I get it.

    Thanks

    ó Joe

  4. #34
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    Location:  Norton, MA

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    The end of the crank has about 1/10000th of an inch variance in our dial indicator test, so it looks like I'm good there -- it's just the flex plate that's bent. I just need new bearings, and an oil pump rebuild kit (it probably is the spring; unfortunately, I don't have the old 2.8L oil pump anymore, so I can't salvage the spring from that).

    I thought I had found the main bearings and oil pump kit on NAPA's site, but it turns out they don't have a way to filter by engine, so I was looking at 2.5L parts, not 3.0L parts. My other searches for these parts haven't come up with anything useful.

    Does anyone where where I can buy main bearings, connecting rod bearings, and oil pump parts for the 3.0L engine? At worst, I'll have to get another entire engine and combine the good parts from the two to get one working engine, but if I can just get the parts I need it'll be a lot easier and cheaper.

    Thanks!

    -- Joe

  5. #35
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

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    Are the gears shot or do you just need a spring? I think I have a pump or two worth of parts, just no springs!
    -----Dan B.

  6. #36
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    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

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    I think the gears are OK, but I don't really know what I'm looking at. There are some marks on the metal behind where the gears sit, but they seem fine otherwise.

    IMG_0861.jpg IMG_0862.jpg

    There's a slight amount of play on the shaft that the sprocket attaches to the water pump, but I don't think that's a problem.


    Video of play: https://youtu.be/PiU-FduAdeY

    I'm going to swing by the garage tomorrow morning and take a look at the spring itself, just to make sure it's really bad. I'm going to pull some of the main bearings and many some connecting rod bearings to see how badly they're scraped, and if there are any identifying marks on them that I can use for a cross reference. I'm also going to see how close the 2.8L bearings are, since DMC sells everything I'd need, if they'll fit in the 3.0L. I think I still have some of the old 2.8L bearings in box that I keep meaning to send off to recycling, but never get around to. I'm not sure if the even fire/odd fire difference between the engines and the larger displacement and other factors rule out using 2.8L parts, but it'll be pretty obvious if they're the wrong size once I get in there.

    Thanks!

    -- Joe
    Attached Images

  7. #37
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    A couple of updates:

    It seems the 2.8L main bearings fit perfectly in the 3.0L engine. I had exactly one main bearing left over from when I tore down the 2.8L, and it seems to be an exact width, thickness and radius match for the 3.0L. It fits perfectly in the 3.0L carrier, too. Makes sense -- why engineer new bearings just to increase the bore size? There's a small notch on the 3.0L bearings, but I can't imagine that would matter here.

    The only possible issue might be if the split journals on the the 3.0L crank (to make it even fire) affect the size of the connecting rods, but if they used the same connecting rods it's not a problem. In fact, now I'm wondering if you can put the 3.0L crank in a 2.8L engine to make an even-fire 2.8L. Unfortunately, I don't have any 2.8L connecting rod bearings to test, but it seems likely they used the same ones here as well.

    I also got some numbers off the 3.0L bearings. Unfortunately, they seem to be serial numbers, since they're different on different bearings (E267265 vs E266219).

    2.8L bearing on the left in the picture (the dirtier one -- it was in a box of things to be recycled, so I wasn't concerned about keeping it clean for installation). the last pictures shows the 2.8L bearing in the 3.0L carrier.

    IMG_0872.jpg IMG_0873.jpg IMG_0875.jpg IMG_0883.jpg

    I also took apart the oil pump. The spring looks just fine, so I don't think that's the problem. The piston inside of it doesn't move all that freely, though. I had to tap it against the table a few times before it fell out. I'm wondering if it's simply supposed to move more smoothly, and that cleaning the bore will fix it up. My mechanic friend has experience with this and should be able to take care of that this coming weekend, assuming that is the problem.

    IMG_0901.jpg

    Thanks again everyone!

    -- Joe

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    The original 2.8 and 3.0 pumps are different, they cannot be interchanged unfortunately. Majority of the pumps Iíve taken apart had damaged relief springs.
    Well... crap.

    I was going through my website to re-familiarize myself with how to re-assemble of the engine, and noticed that I have some comment about breaking a bolt on the oil pump, and not being able to get the broken bolt out. Since the 2.8L pump looked identical to the 3.0L pump, I simply installed that.

    So I'm guessing that's the problem.

    I'm curious what makes the 2.8L and 3.0L pumps different. They look identical and mount up identically. I found an old picture I took of the two of them side by side. Of course that says nothing of the internals.

    IMG_8299.jpg

    So... anyone have a 3.0L oil pump they'd like to sell me?

    -- Joe

  9. #39
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

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    Bad squeaky sound, probably bent crank (3.0L)

    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    Well... crap.

    I was going through my website to re-familiarize myself with how to re-assemble of the engine, and noticed that I have some comment about breaking a bolt on the oil pump, and not being able to get the broken bolt out. Since the 2.8L pump looked identical to the 3.0L pump, I simply installed that.

    So I'm guessing that's the problem.

    I'm curious what makes the 2.8L and 3.0L pumps different. They look identical and mount up identically. I found an old picture I took of the two of them side by side. Of course that says nothing of the internals.

    IMG_8299.jpg

    So... anyone have a 3.0L oil pump they'd like to sell me?

    -- Joe
    The gears are different length . If you used the original D pump, I have there correct gears for you.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    -----Dan B.

  10. #40
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

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    My VIN:    767

    I didn't change the gears at all. I'll gladly buy those gears from you!

    -- Joe

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