Is this for the door lock actuator conversion? If so, contact Toby. He used to make an additional harness adapter that would plug between the stock lock module and car harness (it's been a few years so I don't know if he still makes it). He didn't include it in the standard kit though to keep costs down. But if you don't want to modify the stock harness, then this is the way to go as it becomes a plug/play operation. Or you can just get a digital controller as well which will work with either the solenoid or actuator without the need for additional relays.
Those pins and connectors are 3M brand from British wiring. The connectors seem to mate OK with Lucas connectors but the pins don't work well installing the 3M pins into Lucas connectors.
Got it, so you are saying that if I use a Lucas connector, I'll need to make the pins that are already in it work for my needs.
Originally Posted by dn010
Would this work for you?
Yes! That looks good, although you are right about not having a lot of wire on the ends. Per Dave's post I'd have to solder my new wires onto those existing short leads. I'm looking for 2 sets, do you happen to have another as well? I can PM you to discuss more.
Is this for the door lock actuator conversion? If so, contact Toby. He used to make an additional harness adapter that would plug between the stock lock module and car harness (it's been a few years so I don't know if he still makes it). He didn't include it in the standard kit though to keep costs down. But if you don't want to modify the stock harness, then this is the way to go as it becomes a plug/play operation. Or you can just get a digital controller as well which will work with either the solenoid or actuator without the need for additional relays.
No, I'm good with connector at the door lock module itself. I have an adapter for that I think will work already from years ago when I did my door locks. I said the connector was behind the parcel shelf in my earlier post, but technically I think it is behind the speaker panels, but you can access it after removing the parcel shelf.
If you jump to 3:06 in the below video (not my video), you'll see what I'm talking about
Update:
Dan's connectors arrived! Thanks Dan! I used a razor to expose the ends and have soldered on longer leads to make my short bridge. I have another set of used connectors being shipped from Toby with my wings-a-loft order that is enroute. Now I can freely cut, tap, pull pins, or otherwise modify this bridge and if I ever want to go back to the stock config it will be as simple as disconnecting the modified portion and reconnecting the stock connectors back together.
Just wanted to post a final "thank you" on this thread, the bridge worked great! I was able to plug it into the original harness, easily cut out the wire I needed to use for the actuator (brown wire in the photo)! I was able to source a second set of plugs from Toby at DeLorean Northwest. The full wings-a-loft install isn't quite done as I still need to put the interior back together and sort out a sticky door seal, but it is now working with no modifications to original wiring...just a couple custom wiring adapters!
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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Dave M vin 03572