Door lock solenoid headache

[Kevin 02530]

Hey all,

I thought passenger door lock solenoid was junk so I replaced it and unfortunately that didn't solve my problem. My door locks function normally when they are locked manually. I can once in a while get the passenger door to lock from the drivers side with the key or the interior lock but it won't typically unlock it. The solenoid doesn't move very much when I try to lock/unlock. I don't think it's an adjustment issue at this point since it worked fine up until late in the season last year. Everything inside the door seems to be moving freely. Could this be a relay issue? Any advice appreciated.

[Elvis]

Hi Kevin,

first of all - please us the search- it's all out there.

Of course you have installed the 10A fuse, right ?
(and of course you have read and understood why and what it means when the fuse burns ?!)

you really use a new solenoid ?

you can open the door lock ECU and with both doors closed - kneeing on the passenger seat -
you can push the relays manually.
Not more than a second !
how do the locks / solenoids react ?

If a solenoid is too weak, it is either burned or there is an unwanted resistance somewhere.
The connector at the ECU could be a problem,
but most likely you have water and rust in your roof top under the T-panel - there are the
other connectors.

[DMC-81]

I wonder if your Bellcrank switches (100853) are corroded enough to make it flakey.

By the way, here's my door lock adventure in this thread if it helps any, as I had a similar problem: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...Assessing+lock

[Kevin 02530]

I wonder if your Bellcrank switches (100853) are corroded enough to make it flakey.

By the way, here's my door lock adventure in this thread if it helps any, as I had a similar problem: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...Assessing+lock

Great read! Thank you guys! Lots of helpful info in here.


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[David T]

The solenoid is driven directly from the door lock relay so dirty door switches won't cause a "weaK" solenoid. As Elvis said, it will be a burnt solenoid, a problem with the door lock module or the wiring between the module and the solenoid. One test would be swapping the door lock modules and see if the problem moves with the solenoid.

[DMC-81]

The solenoid is driven directly from the door lock relay so dirty door switches won't cause a "weaK" solenoid. As Elvis said, it will be a burnt solenoid, a problem with the door lock module or the wiring between the module and the solenoid. One test would be swapping the door lock modules and see if the problem moves with the solenoid.

David, the electrical switches activate the relay /DLM at the start of the process (like turning on a light), so even though the (opposite) solenoid is driven from the relay, it is prudent to clean the switches before looking for a wiring problem. As part of my troubleshooting process, I needed to do exactly that to get both solenoids to reliably fire (or short as the case was).

As there is only one DLM, I can't see how they can be swapped, unless you mean the solenoids, but Kevin said that he replaced the passenger solenoid and the problem still exists, so swapping them wouldn't help much in my opinion.

[Elvis]

complicated again...

open that module and push the relays while the doors are closed.

that takes 5 minutes altogether, opening the doors takes several hours !

[Kevin 02530]

complicated again...

open that module and push the relays while the doors are closed.

that takes 5 minutes altogether, opening the doors takes several hours !

So to simplify my understanding here is that I should first clean the wipe switch in the door, then inline fuse the red wire coming from the DLM with a 10 amp fuse. Then test the relays manually, if the fuse blows my solenoids are most likely junk or the relays could be shot as well? Thanks guys.


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[Bitsyncmaster]

So to simplify my understanding here is that I should first clean the wipe switch in the door, then inline fuse the red wire coming from the DLM with a 10 amp fuse. Then test the relays manually, if the fuse blows my solenoids are most likely junk or the relays could be shot as well? Thanks guys.


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If you manually press the relay, you may blow the 10 amps fuse. It depends how long you press the relay. Even with new solenoids your powering both sides at the same time and drawing more than 10 amps. Normally the DLM actuates the relays for less than one second so it's not enough time for the fuse to blow.

[Kevin 02530]

Thanks Dave!


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