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Thread: Diamond Select Flux Capacitor - window popped in

  1. #1
    Senior Member Timebender's Avatar
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    Diamond Select Flux Capacitor - window popped in

    Anyone know how to get the window back in on the Diamond Select Flux Capacitor? I accidentally pushed it in when working in the fuse box and now canít figure out how to get the rubber window seal to fit - do I put it in the window first or around the opening?

  2. #2
    Mr. Pickles-mobile Shep's Avatar
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    Pictures? I don't have one myself but I or someone else might have some insight if we can see how/where it popped in.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Timebender's Avatar
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    I'll post when i get home.

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    Senior Member Timebender's Avatar
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Timebender's Avatar
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    Fixed it by first taking out the bead, then putting the seal on the metal, and rolling it back a little to get the plastic in. Then I put the bead back in with a screwdriver to open the channel and work the bead in.

  6. #6
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
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    Good to know, thanks for posting a follow up. It certainly is a tight fit.

    A little off topic, but has anyone figured out how to make the lights on the Diamond Select flash in the correct direction (outside to center rather than center to out)? This bugs me more than it should.
    David Proehl

  7. #7
    Mr. Pickles-mobile Shep's Avatar
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    I don't think it's as easy as flipping a switch, but if you want to rebuild the circuit entirely, it's actually not a complicated one. Look up "chaser circuit" online, the most robust ones use a 555 timer linked to a 4017 decade counter. I have made a few such circuits myself. I'm sure I can dig up the schematic and parts list if you're interested.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
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    I'm fine with doing some rewiring and soldering, I was just hoping someone else had already done it and had a photo of their rewired board and it was as easy as desoldering and resoldering a few wires. Maybe it isn't that simple. Just looked like a simple board when I opened it up.
    David Proehl

  9. #9
    Mr. Pickles-mobile Shep's Avatar
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    Were there any wires on the board? I have occasionally heard of (and seen) circuitboards where a trace is cut and a wire is soldered onto it. This would probably work well here given the low current involved, but success depends on the trace widths involved, spacing from other traces, soldering tools/skills, and how steady of a hand you have.

    Practicing this technique on other junked electronics wouldn't hurt and is free if you find the right dumpster (apartment complexes), but this isn't a job for the faint of heart. Cutting the wrong trace means you have to repair that trace too.

    I've found medical scalpels readily available on Amazon are amazing, the one shaped like a scythe is immensely useful for this task and its shape means hand steadiness isn't quite as important. Far cheaper than X-acto knives, comes with a cap and in individual sterile bags, just be careful as they are, well, scalpels and can cut deep VERY readily (I am still learning this lesson apparently).

    EDIT: Actually if you have pics, mind sharing them? Particularly interested in the backside of the LED's and the "logic" section.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
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    Below is a photo of the backside. The green wires are my own addition to repair the white wires that I had cut at one point. I did so when I first bought the unit I tried playing with swapping their order as I had read somewhere (don't recall where now) that they could be used to reverse the direction.

    20180409_145637.jpg
    David Proehl

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