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Thread: Diamond Select Flux Capacitor - window popped in

  1. #11
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
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    Now that I think about it, I probably wouldn't need to change how any of this is wired to reverse them. I could unscrew the LED boards, extend the wires, reverse the board orientation, and screw them back in place. I've been overthinking this problem!
    David Proehl

  2. #12
    Mr. Pickles-mobile Shep's Avatar
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    That's exactly what I was going to recommend when I saw that pic. Y-shaped boards are VERY wasteful and nobody wants to manufacture them (I've tried). Even if the spacing is off, videobob has the acryllic part the LED's countersink into that isn't drilled in any way for sale. I've bought them to make my own and it definitely looks the part, just drill a hole big enough to fit the LED's in being VERY careful to get exact centering and orientation (a center punch is crucial here). But I can't imagine they would space it differently for this, should be as simple as a screwdriver.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member Timebender's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidProehl View Post
    Now that I think about it, I probably wouldn't need to change how any of this is wired to reverse them. I could unscrew the LED boards, extend the wires, reverse the board orientation, and screw them back in place. I've been overthinking this problem!
    Yup!! Was just thinking that too. Would be nice though to add in a few more LEDs to get a smoother animation.

  4. #14
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
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    Agreed. 3 isn't nearly enough, it looks more like it is flashing rather than "fluxing." If you figure out a mod to do it, be sure to post a how to!
    David Proehl

  5. #15
    Mr. Pickles-mobile Shep's Avatar
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    New boards. With how cheap they are to make, you could probably use SMD components (including LED's) and have them made at a low quantity pre-assembled for cheap. Just use larger SMD components to avoid "complex assembly" fees and you'll be fine (that plus a $10 chip bit me in the ass the worst in my Bipolar Rectifier dud). You can even specify a wire lead usually and they'll do it no problem, gives you something to crimp on.

    People think it's expensive to do, remember that $20 per board number I listed? Order of five functional flux capacitor guys all at once right there, maybe even ten if you do it right. And that's assuming ten LED's off a 555/4017 circuit.
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  6. #16
    Mr. Pickles-mobile Shep's Avatar
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    Actually come to think of it, I can breadboard it out, I still have all the parts I think. Just need to find my original schematic and figure out what the 555 timer discharge capacitor values were. I've been thinking about this some more and I would imagine a 7-LED with a 3-gap approach would work best, no need for a reset. Why commit when you can test first?
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  7. #17
    Senior Member Timebender's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shep View Post
    Actually come to think of it, I can breadboard it out, I still have all the parts I think. Just need to find my original schematic and figure out what the 555 timer discharge capacitor values were. I've been thinking about this some more and I would imagine a 7-LED with a 3-gap approach would work best, no need for a reset. Why commit when you can test first?
    Iíd be interested in that.

  8. #18
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
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    No comment on the window, but regarding the LED direction, to be clear, this should only be an issue if you have the very early first release of the DST Flux capacitor. The first release included the center strobe light, and the lights cascaded the wrong direction. On DMCTALK.COM there used to be a full write up on how to reverse your light direction, though I'm sure it's lost to the depths of the internet.

    The flux capacitor that Timbender is showing in this thread is the second generation DST flux capacitor that only has the cascading light (no strobe) and the go from the outside inward as they should.

    For reference, this is an original (I think they only sold them for like 6 months to a year or so back around 2008 ). Notice the center stobe light (which commonly burned out), and if you look close it has 2 knobs.


    This is the Flux capacitor that was released a year later and has been sold since. No strobe; 1 knob:
    Last edited by Nicholas R; 04-23-2018 at 05:19 PM.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Timebender's Avatar
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    Interesting.
    I know mine is the second gen with just the one knob, but the LEDs do still move from the center out to the edges.
    Iíll try and shoot a video later - either itís doing that or maybe Iím visually dyslexic and Iím seeing them go the writing direction.

    In any case, I figured how to get the window back in. It wasnít easy, but once I got the hang of it, it went pretty smoothly.

  10. #20
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timebender View Post
    Interesting.
    I know mine is the second gen with just the one knob, but the LEDs do still move from the center out to the edges.
    Iíll try and shoot a video later - either itís doing that or maybe Iím visually dyslexic and Iím seeing them go the writing direction.

    In any case, I figured how to get the window back in. It wasnít easy, but once I got the hang of it, it went pretty smoothly.
    I wasn't going to argue with the previous post, but since you are I'll chime in again. You aren't visually dyslexic. I have the the 2nd gen one with a single knob, no center strobe, and the lights blink the wrong direction. Maybe late in the 2nd gen run they fixed it, but I know with 100% certainty at least some of them are blinking incorrectly. Still, the easy fix will be to reverse the LED boards. I still haven't gotten to it, but its on my list.
    David Proehl

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