Slow car...

[Bullitt]

I disconnected the vacuum hose for the brake booster, brakes are good for now. Gonna drive it a little bit more to be sure. So guess the brake booster is shot. Probably some crap clogging up the valve inside.

Sent fra min F5321 via Tapatalk

[Bullitt]

Adjusted the CO today... HC is through the roof. Runs "fine" but has slow acceleration, backfires, sputters, smells gas and use alot of gas. As I said, I suspect that the company that rebuilt my engine got the timing chain screwed up. Easiest way to check this? Performed a compression test a while back, and that was not too bad, so I don't think any valves are screwed up. Take a look at the pictures, the one that reads 1,5 CO is the right bank, and the 1,48 CO is the left bank.

Sent fra min F5321 via Tapatalk

[NckT]

You might have to get a fuel pressure gauge and take some readings to make sure the CPR/WUR you have is within spec and take it from there. The fuel pressure gauge should be compatible for k/ ke jetronic and have the isolator valve in line with the fuel pressure gauge's hoses...

[Bullitt]

Changed the brake booster today, so my brakes are good again!

Sent fra min F5321 via Tapatalk

[Bullitt]

A while ago I replaced the brake booster, and sorted out the timing Chain. Guess it was wrong, it did go alot faster afterwards, but engine sputtered more.
I got the correct CPR yesterday and installed it. Now I am able to get it in closed loop and adjust the dwell. Ran the car until it was hot and the fans kicked inn. Adjusted the dwell. But somehow I got it in my mind that the value should be centered around 45 degrees and adjusted accordingly. When I checked the forum today I have an understanding that the value should be centered around 40 degrees.
I will adjust it correctly today, and also check timing again to be sure.
The car ran alot better, but it still smelled rich and sputtered som when I hit the Accelerator pedal. Maybe that will sort itself out when I adjust it again today.
(When I set it around 45 degrees yesterday, the Frequency valve only buzzed sometimes. Is that correct or should it Buzz all the time? It used to Buzz all the time when I could only get it to run in open loop)

[Bitsyncmaster]

The FV should be running all the time. The minimum is about 15% and maximum is around 95% duty cycle. So if your using a stethoscope you would hear it but the loudest buzz is around 50%. So you may not hear the buzz if it is running near the max or min.

Your dwell meter should always so a value other than 0 or 90 deg.

[Bullitt]

A couple of new spark plugs did the trick. It runs like a dream now. Gonna double check the timing and dwell tomorrow to check if everything is okay. The plugs were not old, but has probably seen some hard times!

Sent fra min H8324 via Tapatalk

[David T]

If it has been running rich for a while it often contaminates the O2 sensor. Depending on how long and how bad, the sensor could clean itself eventually. Recheck the duty cycle after running it for a while. You can also try a bottle of Techron if you can get it (or some other good fuel injector cleaner). I have gotten "bad" sensors to work by cooking them with a propane torch for a while but they are never good. Best is to just replace it. Might as well check the valve clearances and reset the Lambda counter.