Slow car...

[Bullitt]

The O2 sensor has one wire... But at the end of the wire at the ECU there is 2 wires coming out of the blue wire at pin 2 and 4?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

[QUOTE=Bullitt;233136]The O2 sensor has one wire... But at the end of the wire at the ECU there is 2 wires coming out of the blue wire at pin 2 and 4?

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I think that is normal. The sensor wire is shielded so it's common to just connect the shield on one end only (so no current flows in the shield). A common problem with the lambda is one of the grounds at the engine harness is not connected.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Note pin 22 and 23 on my bulkhead pdf. Yours should be the same on those two pins.

[Bullitt]

Note pin 22 and 23 on my bulkhead pdf. Yours should be the same on those two pins.

Thanks, will check tomorrow.

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[NckT]

It was

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Just to clarify, there is a permanent wire from the fuel lambda ecu plu gin that pic to the grey rubber bung at the firewall. Pull the grey rubber bung out of the firewall and there is a blade connection there that then goes to the oxygen sensor. It is at this point that the o2 sensor is disconnected or has fallen off. This is a single wire from the oxygen sensor that is the 'signal' wire. As Bitsyncmaster said, the 2nd cable is the outer cable that acts as the radio interference sordid and is usually connected at one side

[Bullitt]

Just to clarify, there is a permanent wire from the fuel lambda ecu plu gin that pic to the grey rubber bung at the firewall. Pull the grey rubber bung out of the firewall and there is a blade connection there that then goes to the oxygen sensor. It is at this point that the o2 sensor is disconnected or has fallen off. This is a single wire from the oxygen sensor that is the 'signal' wire. As Bitsyncmaster said, the 2nd cable is the outer cable that acts as the radio interference sordid and is usually connected at one side

Aa, got It. Will check today. Also double checking vacuum routing, fuel line routing. But judt curious... If I got the Dwell angle adjusted properly, and when I check CO at work, should I leave out adjusting for a better CO? If I understand corrcet, the Dwell angle adjustment is most important?

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[NckT]

You'll have to say if your car has got a catalytic converter on or not as this will affect the CO reading, as the purpose of the converter is to convert CO + HC + NO2 + N2O -> H2O + CO2 + N2 + O2 (thereabouts).

[Bullitt]

You'll have to say if your car has got a catalytic converter on or not as this will affect the CO reading, as the purpose of the converter is to convert CO + HC + NO2 + N2O -> H2O + CO2 + N2 + O2 (thereabouts).

It does not have catalytic converter.
Im out in the garage now. I used a mirror to check the vacuum hoses. I can see the that the hose for the solenoid and the wur is mixed up...

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[NckT]

If it helps with the vac pipes, I originally posted a test on:

http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4619

Vac pipes Vac pipes... the bain of DeLorean engines...
Incorrectly connected make the car run a bit rubbish......

To save time stripping the inlet manifold off and to save time, you can do the following to check that the vac pipes are connected the correct way around. There are 3 vacuum pipes come from the thermo-vacuum switch from under the inlet manofold.
1 to the T Piece on the Control Pressure Regulator
1 to the Distributor Solenoid (located between the Fuel Distributor and the fibreflass firewall/ bulkhead)
1 to the Inlet Manifold, on a small pipe stud on the Inlet Manifold nearest to the ceramic resistors

With a COLD enginer (i.e. one that has been left overnight), Blow down the pipes separately.
2 of the vacuum pipes should flow air through each other the other one feels blocked.
Label the blocked one as "Distributor Solenoid"

Run the engine until it is at normal running temperature ie coolant temp is +80c

You should be able to blow down the one marked distributor and out of one of the other pipes. Label this pipe "inlet manifold".
If you blow down the 3rd pipe it should feel blocked. Label this as the "Control Pressure Regulator".

Let the engine cool down (i.e. leave it left overnight),

Verification Test:

With a COLD enginer (i.e. one that has been left overnight),
Blow through the vacuum pipe labelled "Inlet manifold", Air should come out of the vacuum pipe labelled "Control Pressure Regulator".
The remaining vacuum pipe labelled "Distributor Solenoid" should be blocked.

Run the engine until it is at running temperature.
Blow through the vacuum pipe labelled "Inlet manifold", Air should come out of the vacuum pipe labelled "Distributor Solenoid"
The remaining vacuum pipe labelled "Control Pressure Regulator" should be blocked.

If your vacuum pipes pass the above test, connect them up, noting that the vacuum pipe from under the inlet manifold marked "Distributor Solenoid" connects to the CENTRAL Vacuum stub on the Distributor Solenoid. This too is also handed and affects the way the engine runs.

If test is NOT OK then but always follows the engine hot test, chances are your thermo vac switch is stuck in the "HOT" position.
Before you replace this, check that you are actually checking the correct vac pipes from under the inlet manifold.
I have noted on one car that the pipe from under the inlet manifold was actually connected to the hot water valve vacuum connection!

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You won't have a T piece on your CPR if you've got a volvo one on so dismiss this.

I hope this helps

[NckT]

It does not have catalytic converter.
Im out in the garage now. I used a mirror to check the vacuum hoses. I can see the that the hose for the solenoid and the wur is mixed up...

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By the way, if your car doesn't have a catalytic converter, you could just disconnect the oxygen sensor electrical connector and set the CO to between 1.0 to 1.5 %, and check that the HC is less than 250ppm