Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Where to get 3.0L engine bearings and oil pump?

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    617

    My VIN:    767

    Where to get 3.0L engine bearings and oil pump?

    Figured I'd split this out of the other thread:

    I tried to crank over my 3.0L engine conversion only to hear a loud squeaking sound. Upon disassembly, I found that all the oil was sitting in the pan, and that the rest of the engine was bone dry. There are scratches on the main bearings, but the crank itself is fine.

    At this point, I'm looking to replace:
    - The oil pump, or at least the spring for it (apparently the 2.8L spring works, but I don't have one)
    - Main bearings
    - Connecting rod bearings

    My searches absolutely so far have found nothing. I've been looking for:
    - ~1989 Eagle Premier, 3.0L
    - ~1992 Dodge Monaco, 3.0L
    - Renault Z7X engine

    I can find parts for the 2.5L pretty easily, but nothing for the 3.0L. I checked the usual suspects like RockAuto, NAPA, AutoZone, and bearing makers King and MAHLE, but nothing.

    Does anyone know where I can buy these parts? My worst case scenario is to buy another engine, if it comes down to it, but getting new bearings and a new pump would be a lot easier, faster and probably cheaper.

    Thanks

    -- Joe

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    617

    My VIN:    767

    I discovered that the 2.8L main bearings appear to be identical to the 3.0L ones -- I had one old 2.8L bearing to compare against, and they seem to be a perfect match. I'm guessing the same is true about the connecting rod bearings, too. Luckily, these are all readily available from DeLorean vendors. I'll be installing a complete set of 2.8L main bearings and connecting rod bearings this weekend, so we'll know for sure then.

    dn010 had a spare oil pump for me, so I'm good there too. I looked over my notes and found that I broke a bolt in the 3.0L oil pump and couldn't get it out, so I used the seemingly-identical 2.8L pump instead. Apparently they're not as identical as I thought (the gear is a bit longer on the 3.0L pump). I'll be installing that this weekend as well, and testing it to make sure it pumps properly before I put everything back together.

    -- Joe

  3. #3
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    1,558

    My VIN:    5003

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Glad I could help with the pump.

    From what I understand, the main bearings are the same from 2.8/3.0, but the rod bearings are different from 2.8 odd to 3.0...
    -----Dan B.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    617

    My VIN:    767

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    From what I understand, the main bearings are the same from 2.8/3.0, but the rod bearings are different from 2.8 odd to 3.0...
    Unfortunately, I didn't have any old 2.8L connecting rods to compare against -- just the one main bearing I hadn't recycled yet. Given the split journals I was wondering if the connecting rod bearings were different, but I figured I'd take the chance.

    I have no idea where I'd get 3.0L connecting rod bearings from, though -- the DMC ones were my best shot. I haven't looked at the connecting rod bearings in detail yet, so maybe they're not too bad and I can reuse them. It was $65 for a set of 2.8L bearings, so it's not a huge monetary loss if they don't work.

    Thanks

    -- Joe

  5. #5
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    1,558

    My VIN:    5003

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    According to the photo I have of my B280F rods I have for sale, they may still have the bearings on them. If all else fails and you are unable to find them anywhere, I can pull them. They look like the have some wear however...
    -----Dan B.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    617

    My VIN:    767

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    According to the photo I have of my B280F rods I have for sale, they may still have the bearings on them. If all else fails and you are unable to find them anywhere, I can pull them. They look like the have some wear however...
    The question is if they have more wear than mine. I'll see what I come up with this weekend, since I'll be pulling the crank and checking all the bearings for the first time then. To be honest, I'm starting to wonder if the wear on my existing bearings is enough to have warranted replacing them, given what I've seen searching the net. It seems to come down to "is it leaking oil?", and if it's not there isn't necessarily a need to replace the it.

    It would be nice if car parts were sold by dimension instead of by car, but I also understand why they do it the way they do.

    -- Joe

  7. #7
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    1,558

    My VIN:    5003

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    In a perfect world, you'd use new bearings regardless while you're in there, but when you're limited to what you can get, you gotta do what you gotta do in a pinch. Let us know what it looks like this weekend. I'm hoping for the best, good luck!
    -----Dan B.

  8. #8
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    6,681

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    In a perfect world, you'd use new bearings regardless while you're in there, but when you're limited to what you can get, you gotta do what you gotta do in a pinch. Let us know what it looks like this weekend. I'm hoping for the best, good luck!
    If you intend to reuse a bearing at least check clearances with Plasitgage and use assembly lube. Wouldn't hurt to also "mike" the crank and rub it with crocus cloth.
    David Teitelbaum

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

    Posts:    617

    My VIN:    767

    I picked up some Plastigage last night (at the insistence of my mechanic friend), and then googled around to figure out how it works. I also have assembly lube on the way. We'll be sure to go over the crank and prep it before re-installing everything. I'm not quite sure what "miking" is, but I'm guessing my friend does.

    Thanks!

    -- Joe

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2014

    Location:  West Sayville, N.Y.

    Posts:    1,348

    My VIN:    005058 000927

    Club(s):   (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    I picked up some Plastigage last night (at the insistence of my mechanic friend), and then googled around to figure out how it works. I also have assembly lube on the way. We'll be sure to go over the crank and prep it before re-installing everything. I'm not quite sure what "miking" is, but I'm guessing my friend does.

    Thanks!

    -- Joe
    Plastigauge is used on the rod and main bearings to determine tolerances. You lay a piece across the bearing and install the cap and torque to spec. Then you remove the bearing cap and measure the width of the flattened plastigauge with a calipers to determine if the bearing clearance is within specs.
    Rob Grady

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •