Just bought a barn find, need some guidance.

[DMC-81]

Here are close up of that area. It's not por. Its oil and dirt. I just took a rag to it anf it wiped off. New paint under it.

I found this does a good job cleaning the frame.

[Jonathan]

More info on the front end recall here: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a78/f...hat-is-it.aspx

It looks like you are missing the strengthening brackets (Dana, are you missing those too?).

The link to the DMC Houston Knowledge Base of articles references the recall kit and a link to the PDF write-up of what it includes. There were a few things like this on the car. I would recommend getting yourself a copy of the manuals for the car, which includes the workshop manual, parts manual, bulletins binder and owner's manual.

You mentioned a leak being near the speedo connection in the rear. What did you mean by this? The speedo cable connects to the front left wheel, in through the front firewall at the driver's feet and then up into the instrument cluster. You can see a cable hanging down slightly in one of your photos just behind the auto trans fluid pan and that is one of the two parking brake cables going to the rear wheels.

[YJK]

Thanks for the info. It looks like i need to do a search on recalls. Stupid question, if something has not been updated are parts available for the updates.

I need a wash bay with a lift. But will fun cleaning the underside without it.

[YJK]

More info on the front end recall here: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a78/f...hat-is-it.aspx

It looks like you are missing the strengthening brackets (Dana, are you missing those too?).

The link to the DMC Houston Knowledge Base of articles references the recall kit and a link to the PDF write-up of what it includes. There were a few things like this on the car. I would recommend getting yourself a copy of the manuals for the car, which includes the workshop manual, parts manual, bulletins binder and owner's manual.

You mentioned a leak being near the speedo connection in the rear. What did you mean by this? The speedo cable connects to the front left wheel, in through the front firewall at the driver's feet and then up into the instrument cluster. You can see a cable hanging down slightly in one of your photos just behind the auto trans fluid pan and that is one of the two parking brake cables going to the rear wheels.

Ill add the bracket to the list to check on. The leak is at the rubber boot at the rear of the trans, above the pan on pass side. I just guessed this was the speedo connection. Have not had a chance to look up what all the connection points are yet. Igot a workshop manual with the car, still reading it.

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the info. It looks like i need to do a search on recalls. Stupid question, if something has not been updated are parts available for the updates.

I need a wash bay with a lift. But will fun cleaning the underside without it.

Front end recall kit here: http://store.delorean.com/p-10229-fr...ecall-kit.aspx

Throttle/de-ice kit recall here: http://store.delorean.com/p-10210-de...ecall-kit.aspx

Inertia switch replacement as per recall: http://store.delorean.com/p-7047-inertia-switch.aspx

Fuse and relay kit upgrade (and specifically the fan fail spot): http://store.delorean.com/p-10219-relay-update-kit.aspx

Ill add the bracket to the list to check on. The leak is at the rubber boot at the rear of the trans, above the pan on pass side. I just guessed this was the speedo connection. Have not had a chance to look up what all the connection points are yet. Igot a workshop manual with the car, still reading it.

That leaking connection is probably a portion of the shift computer harness. It is the 1st item on this parts page: http://store.delorean.com/c-293-4-5-...modulator.aspx

Which also serves as a good introduction to Houston's parts store. DMC Houston obtained pretty much the entire inventory of parts when the original company went belly up in the 80s. There are about 2,500 parts that make up the car and they still have inventory on 90% of them (a bit of a guess on my part on that). The parts pages on the website are set-up in the same sequence as the parts manual pages, by system. Fuel, engine, transmission, body, etc. You can learn a lot just clicking around to see what is what. You'll also see prices and whether it is in stock. I would suggest calling Houston (or one of their franchises if you're closer to Midwest, California or Florida) and not placing an "add to basket" order initially. I say that just to make sure it is clear what you need vs ask for. They are good like that. You might think your oil pan is leaking but not realize it is the oil pressure sender above it that is actually leaking, for example.

There are other vendors of legit DeLorean parts too, either NOS or brand new/redesigned as well including locations that were franchises but are not anymore. Northwest is one and so is the one in Holland. PJ Grady in NY and DPI in Ohio/AZ. SpecialtyT Auto in Texas and DeLoreanGO and DeLorean Europe in the UK. Lots to pick from. Most things generally fit, but not always, so ask questions before you buy. There were some pretty odd production changes in the 9,000 cars and so it wasn't the most consistent thing ever made. They went bankrupt after making 9,000 or so cars and had intentions (and inventory) to make 20,000+ per year (but never did). That's more or less why there are so many parts available still. GM wants $93 for a pair of wipers for my Pontiac G8 and yet a pair of DeLorean wipers is $10. Go figure.

[dodint]

To dovetail onto the recommendation for acquiring workshop manuals, do check out this thread specifically: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?28...Engine-Manuals and the 'Resources' section of the forum generally. That thread has .pdf versions of the Workshop and other manuals. I have both, but it's handy to be able to page through the workshop manual and bulletins on a tablet or computer without lugging around the binder.

[David T]

The cross/over lists are getting old. Many of the cross/over parts are NLA now too because the cars they cross to are old and many of the vendors that used to make the parts either are out of business or they stopped making those parts. Your best bet to get the parts is to put together a list and order it from one of the vendors. The more you order the better the deal you can get. You know the parts will work and fit right because they use the parts in their service work themselves. In some cases the parts are better than what was originally available. Figure you will rebuild the brakes, cooling system, new tires, battery, wiper blades, any recalls and updates, tune-up, master water pump kit, A/C hoses and the fuel system. Change ALL of the fluids and filters. That will get you going and then you will find what else is broken or not working. My advice is to concentrate on the mechanicals before you start working on any cosmetic items.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The cross/over lists are getting old. Many of the cross/over parts are NLA now too because the cars they cross to are old and many of the vendors that used to make the parts either are out of business or they stopped making those parts. Your best bet to get the parts is to put together a list and order it from one of the vendors. The more you order the better the deal you can get. You know the parts will work and fit right because they use the parts in their service work themselves. In some cases the parts are better than what was originally available. Figure you will rebuild the brakes, cooling system, new tires, battery, wiper blades, any recalls and updates, tune-up, master water pump kit, A/C hoses and the fuel system. Change ALL of the fluids and filters. That will get you going and then you will find what else is broken or not working. My advice is to concentrate on the mechanicals before you start working on any cosmetic items.

Everything we sell at least has been installed and tested and rejected if it obviously or will potentially not Rwork. You might be surprised by the fact that few others..if anyone..goes through that extra trouble. We always will because the mission is always to be the best.
Rob

[DMC-81]

More info on the front end recall here: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a78/f...hat-is-it.aspx

It looks like you are missing the strengthening brackets (Dana, are you missing those too?).

The link to the DMC Houston Knowledge Base of articles references the recall kit and a link to the PDF write-up of what it includes. There were a few things like this on the car. I would recommend getting yourself a copy of the manuals for the car, which includes the workshop manual, parts manual, bulletins binder and owner's manual.

You mentioned a leak being near the speedo connection in the rear. What did you mean by this? The speedo cable connects to the front left wheel, in through the front firewall at the driver's feet and then up into the instrument cluster. You can see a cable hanging down slightly in one of your photos just behind the auto trans fluid pan and that is one of the two parking brake cables going to the rear wheels.

Hi Jonathan. Correct. I restored the first recall kit (substituting longer bolts) originally because that's what came on the car, but I have the bracket /2nd recall kit in my parts bin to install soon. (For the OP, it's not required to get the car running, but should be done shortly thereafter. I would definitely prioritize fuel, cooling, and braking systems etc. first.)

Good call on suggesting getting the manuals.

[bfloyd]

Did you have to from it setting that long, or did you do it just to make sure everything was working. Anything done that you wouldn't have done today or things that you should do?

When I bought mine in November of 2014, it had been sitting since 1995. Because everything on the car was factory original, many of the things had just deteriorated over time. Fuel pump was corroded and rusted, fuel lines were hard and brittle. The brake calipers were seized and locked up on me the first time I tried to drive it around the block. The front brakes clamped down on the rotors and would not let go. I literally drug it home with my truck via a tow strap with the front wheels not rolling. Once I got to my driveway, I used my floor jack to lift up the front end off the ground and drove it up my concrete driveway using the wheels of the floor jack. I did the whole "valley of death" refurbishment thing and it became one of those "while you're in here you might as well...." Be careful of rusted and seized bolts on the Y-pipe, they snap way too easily.

Everything I've done so far I would consider a necessity. Doing it again, I would go ahead and replace the factory cooling fans with the newer versions while I had the radiator out, the fuse box still needs replacing, and the trailing arm bolts probably need replacing at some point. I'm taking my car back up to DMC-Midwest in the fall to have them replace the springs and shocks, so I may have them replace the TABs while it's there.