Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: 5 Speed Transmission Removal Q's

  1. #1
    DMC Noob Extraordinaire AirmanPika's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Denver, CO

    Posts:    236

    My VIN:    5087

    5 Speed Transmission Removal Q's

    So I'm in the process of removing the transmission from my car but a few things are not making sense as I go through the manual and look at the car itself.

    In steps 4-6 it mentions removing the brackets. There are 3 bolts on the rear case holding the bracket in but I can't figure out how to access the upper bolt. The hole in the bracket doesn't give direct access and maybe my imagination isn't cooperating but I can't see any angle bit fitting either.

    Also, in 10-11 there is the protective flywheel shield and magnetic pickup plate. Access to these seems marginal also.

    Any advice on how to get these items pulled? I did some research but couldn't find any good references.

  2. #2
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    1,719

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I'm assuming you mean the crossgate bracket (106653). Yeah, for that hard to reach top bolt I used a 1/4" drive 13 mm socket, 2 extensions separated by a knuckle and a ratchet... And a small mirror to help me guide it in.

    image.jpg
    That is almost the worst bolt on the gearbox.

    (After 4 times removing the transmission or rear cover, I didn't need the mirror anymore.)

    For the magnetic pick up plate (101075) , remove the crossover pipe first and you'll have enough room to use a 11mm socket for the 2 7mm bolts. I doubt you have the flywheel inspection plate (101073), if you don't you can feel the flywheel directly with your fingers inside the bottom edge of the clutch housing. If you do have it, I believe you have to lift the engine slightly to remove the 4 7 mm bolts.


    Here's my gearbox thread in case it helps any..http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...ght=speed+flaw
    Last edited by DMC-81; 05-02-2018 at 07:10 PM.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  3. #3
    DMC Noob Extraordinaire AirmanPika's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Denver, CO

    Posts:    236

    My VIN:    5087

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    I'm assuming you mean the crossgate bracket (106653). Yeah, for that hard to reach top bolt I used a 1/4" drive 13 mm socket, 2 extensions separated by a knuckle and a ratchet... And a small mirror to help me guide it in.

    image.jpg
    That is almost the worst bolt on the gearbox.

    (After 4 times removing the transmission or rear cover, I didn't need the mirror anymore.)

    For the magnetic pick up plate (101075) , remove the crossover pipe first and you'll have enough room to use a 11mm socket for the 2 7mm bolts. I doubt you have the flywheel inspection plate (101073), if you don't you can feel the flywheel directly with your fingers inside the bottom edge of the clutch housing. If you do have it, I believe you have to lift the engine slightly to remove the 4 7 mm bolts.


    Here's my gearbox thread in case it helps any..http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...ght=speed+flaw
    Thanks for the reply. I agree the bolt you mentioned is a pain but that one I actually figured out. I'm actually trying to figure out the top bolt on the L/R mounting brackets 106341/106342. I do still have the flywheel plate on mine though it seems odd you'd need to lift the engine. That said might just be a good opportunity to go ahead and replace the engine mounts at the same time.

  4. #4
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    1,719

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by AirmanPika View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I agree the bolt you mentioned is a pain but that one I actually figured out. I'm actually trying to figure out the top bolt on the L/R mounting brackets 106341/106342. I do still have the flywheel plate on mine though it seems odd you'd need to lift the engine. That said might just be a good opportunity to go ahead and replace the engine mounts at the same time.
    Oh I see. Yes, for these, for the top bolt, I used a 17 mm combination wrench on the hard to reach inside and a 17 mm socket /ratchet on the outside.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  5. #5
    DMC Noob Extraordinaire AirmanPika's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Denver, CO

    Posts:    236

    My VIN:    5087

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Oh I see. Yes, for these, for the top bolt, I used a 17 mm combination wrench on the hard to reach inside and a 17 mm socket /ratchet on the outside.
    Thanks I must have gotten frustrated and gave up too soon. That was exactly the trick. The left bracket was a pain thanks to a bolt on the base of the casing but I just used the open end at a different attack angle and it worked. Both brackets are now out.

  6. #6
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    1,719

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by AirmanPika View Post
    Thanks I must have gotten frustrated and gave up too soon. That was exactly the trick. The left bracket was a pain thanks to a bolt on the base of the casing but I just used the open end at a different attack angle and it worked. Both brackets are now out.
    Excellent!
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  7. #7
    DMC Noob Extraordinaire AirmanPika's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Denver, CO

    Posts:    236

    My VIN:    5087

    Well got back to wrenching today. Luckily a prior owner only used 2 bolts on the flywheel cover so I only had to endure the harrowing work between the lifted engine and frame for a few minutes. I got everything else disconnected and technically the thing is now free but as has come up in prior threads the sucker is stuck hard to the engine. I've been reading up on what folks have done prior to get the thing disconnected but I'm open to anything anyone can toss out too. Also, any other recommendations on work to do while the transmission is out? Right now a new rear main seal, fuel filter, and general cleanup are on the books. The clutch should be good as it only has about 4000 or so miles on it.

  8. #8
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    1,719

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by AirmanPika View Post
    Well got back to wrenching today. Luckily a prior owner only used 2 bolts on the flywheel cover so I only had to endure the harrowing work between the lifted engine and frame for a few minutes. I got everything else disconnected and technically the thing is now free but as has come up in prior threads the sucker is stuck hard to the engine. I've been reading up on what folks have done prior to get the thing disconnected but I'm open to anything anyone can toss out too. Also, any other recommendations on work to do while the transmission is out? Right now a new rear main seal, fuel filter, and general cleanup are on the books. The clutch should be good as it only has about 4000 or so miles on it.
    I would check to make sure everything is disconnected (starter, brackets, linkages, etc.), then be sure that the transmission is supported absolutely level (not tilted down in the back, etc.). Also, make sure the engine is securely supported. For example, I used a 4x4 against the rear lip of the oil pan for this. Once that is checked, you should be able to wiggle the rear of the transmission a bit to loosen up the 2 alignment pins.

    As for other work to do, assuming you are not going to break apart the gearbox, I would suggest:

    - check/replace the pilot bearing. Rob Grady sells a good quality Nachi bearing
    - check/rebuild CV joints
    - check replace the throw out bearing. (if this was recently replaced, you should be good)
    - check the rubber cup seal on the pivot ball (behind the clutch fork) Rob Grady sells these
    - grease the pivot ball with 50/50 mixture of moly grease and antiseize

    Here is the seal:
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  9. #9
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    6,681

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Get a new breather plug for the transmission. They all are crumbling now so the one you have is probably gone. While apart recheck the diff adjustment. Worry about all of the internal stuff, you can always go back and do the external stuff. Not easy but you don't have to pull the tranny to do it. If the clutch slave is questionable do it now, it is a LOT easier when you have the tranny out. if you still have the plastic hose replace it with the S/S braided one. Make up the 2 alignment pins, it makes it easier to remove and install the tranny. If you do the clutch you need the alignment tool so you can put it all back together. Sometimes you just have to pry things apart but only force them when you KNOW you have removed EVERY bolt and the transaxle is not cocked, it MUST be straight to slide apart.
    David Teitelbaum

  10. #10
    DMC Noob Extraordinaire AirmanPika's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Denver, CO

    Posts:    236

    My VIN:    5087

    Well the transmission bellhousing is loose from the engine but it is still stuck somehow. I can rotate the transmission a bit when I loosen the jack a bit so its not stuck at the pins. Also I know it is disconnected from the protective plates and starter. Those move away freely (and again the ease of rotating the case). I'm guessing it is stuck somehow at the clutch/input shaft but attempting to adjust angles to free it up have had no impact. Am I missing something?
    Last edited by AirmanPika; 05-13-2018 at 06:21 PM.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •