Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
New discovery:
I thought the roof box was all one piece, but apparently, it isn't. The area just behind the electrical access panel flexes easily enough for me to press it down (and then it springs back up). There's a seam there, and I can see the metal on one side of the seam moving and the area on the other side not moving.
Sealant is gooped over that seam, so I can't tell if there's any overlap. Can anyone enlighten me as to whether there's an overlap there? Should I worry about that flexing motion or leave it be?
Thanks in advance.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
I guess a photo would help...
Looks like the seam/join runs all the way across the roof box between the doors, right at the rear corners.
roof box join no flash.jpg
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,111
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
From what I understand, and correct me if I am wrong, there is a front piece, a rear piece and then the piece in the middle that overlaps the two. I am not sure how much integrity adding the glue would give, but it's definitely needed for weatherproofing. If you open the door and look at the middle piece, you should see the metal overlap at the sides/ends if there isn't a ton of sealant over it.
-----Dan B.
It's fine just seal it .
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Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Thanks for the info, everyone. I'll just remove any loose sealant, scrape away the rest, and have at it Dunmurry-style with new goop.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Well, I installed and tightened the nuts & bolts in the roof cage today and solved zero problems. The doors are still binding in the plastic at the front, and the passenger door still creaks like a horror-movie door and gets bound up on the rear striker pin.
At least I have the satisfaction of knowing that the roof cage won't raise in the rear anymore. I did see it move down slightly while I was tightening the fasteners.
And the clip pulled out of the headliner, so #2613 is now without rear headliner. Gotta love working on these cars: try to solve one problem, fail to do so and create a new problem. LOL
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
My doors did the same thing. There is nothing holding the leading edge of the doors except the seals which are collapsing under the weight. As that happens owners will start to adjust the striker pins lower to make a tighter seal. An so on. I bought a couple of hood bumper supports and installed them with a couple of blind nuts.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Thanks, Gary! I like that solution.
I finished the "roof cage fix" tonight, slowly tightening the fasteners until they wouldn't travel any more and covering them with black RTV (my tribute to Dunmurry water sealant). Closed both doors and locked them, so in the morning we'll see how they open. Seems like the doors latched and locked more easily, but it could have been placebo effect. If the passenger door still sticks shut, I will have to investigate another solution.
For the front of the doors dipping too low, I really like Gary's solution.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
I had forgotten that the torsion bars remaining installed would create some resistance while torquing down the fasteners. So I tightened them until they essentially bottomed out. Good results: doors are no longer binding into the plastic at the front (although to raise them slightly I like Gary's solution) and after adjusting the striker pins the passenger door is no longer sticking shut. Awesome sauce!
RTV applied.jpg
driver door front gap.jpg
passenger door front gap.jpg
3.0L, automatic, carbureted