Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
Results 21 to 30 of 30

Thread: doors binding in plastic trim

  1. #21
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Quote Originally Posted by powerline84 View Post
    Any kind of eurothane sealant
    Awesome. Thanks!
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  2. #22
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    New discovery:

    I thought the roof box was all one piece, but apparently, it isn't. The area just behind the electrical access panel flexes easily enough for me to press it down (and then it springs back up). There's a seam there, and I can see the metal on one side of the seam moving and the area on the other side not moving.

    Sealant is gooped over that seam, so I can't tell if there's any overlap. Can anyone enlighten me as to whether there's an overlap there? Should I worry about that flexing motion or leave it be?

    Thanks in advance.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  3. #23
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    seam/join in roof box

    I guess a photo would help...

    Looks like the seam/join runs all the way across the roof box between the doors, right at the rear corners.

    roof box join no flash.jpg
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  4. #24
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    1,568

    My VIN:    5003

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    From what I understand, and correct me if I am wrong, there is a front piece, a rear piece and then the piece in the middle that overlaps the two. I am not sure how much integrity adding the glue would give, but it's definitely needed for weatherproofing. If you open the door and look at the middle piece, you should see the metal overlap at the sides/ends if there isn't a ton of sealant over it.
    -----Dan B.

  5. #25
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  NY

    Posts:    535

    My VIN:    2706

    It's fine just seal it .

  6. #26
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Thanks for the info, everyone. I'll just remove any loose sealant, scrape away the rest, and have at it Dunmurry-style with new goop.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  7. #27
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Well, I installed and tightened the nuts & bolts in the roof cage today and solved zero problems. The doors are still binding in the plastic at the front, and the passenger door still creaks like a horror-movie door and gets bound up on the rear striker pin.

    At least I have the satisfaction of knowing that the roof cage won't raise in the rear anymore. I did see it move down slightly while I was tightening the fasteners.

    And the clip pulled out of the headliner, so #2613 is now without rear headliner. Gotta love working on these cars: try to solve one problem, fail to do so and create a new problem. LOL
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  8. #28
    Never mind Gary's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2014

    Location:  Battle Ground. WA.

    Posts:    68

    My VIN:    4018

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Try this

    My doors did the same thing. There is nothing holding the leading edge of the doors except the seals which are collapsing under the weight. As that happens owners will start to adjust the striker pins lower to make a tighter seal. An so on. I bought a couple of hood bumper supports and installed them with a couple of blind nuts.
    Attached Images

  9. #29
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    Thanks, Gary! I like that solution.

    I finished the "roof cage fix" tonight, slowly tightening the fasteners until they wouldn't travel any more and covering them with black RTV (my tribute to Dunmurry water sealant). Closed both doors and locked them, so in the morning we'll see how they open. Seems like the doors latched and locked more easily, but it could have been placebo effect. If the passenger door still sticks shut, I will have to investigate another solution.

    For the front of the doors dipping too low, I really like Gary's solution.
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

  10. #30
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Plantation, FL

    Posts:    4,444

    My VIN:    02613

    I had forgotten that the torsion bars remaining installed would create some resistance while torquing down the fasteners. So I tightened them until they essentially bottomed out. Good results: doors are no longer binding into the plastic at the front (although to raise them slightly I like Gary's solution) and after adjusting the striker pins the passenger door is no longer sticking shut. Awesome sauce!

    RTV applied.jpg

    driver door front gap.jpg

    passenger door front gap.jpg
    DeLorean status: It's complicated.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •