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Thread: Adding new 12V power outlet

  1. #1
    Desert DeLorean Driver burch's Avatar
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    Adding new 12V power outlet

    Hi Everyone -

    I'm planning on adding a 12V (cigarette lighter type) power port near the parcel shelf in the back of 6631. I will have this switched via one of the dummy switches in the console.

    The only thing this will run in the back is a replica Flux Capacitor. I like the idea of having this switched at the console. Trying to figure out the best place to pull power for this. I could potentially tap into the existing 12V for the cigarette lighter in the console, could choose some other source, or run something new (with an inline 10 amp fuse). Any suggestions?

  2. #2
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    If I remember correctly, the existing cigarette lighter is always on, so you'll want to be aware of that. But that could be a feature if you want to be able to power the flux capacitor without having to turn the key to the the "run" position. I once thought of hooking up a flux capacitor to the speedometer, but it's probably a bad idea to have forward-facing flashing blue/white lights on while you're driving if you're not an emergency vehicle...

    I have a few extra accessories that I wanted to be accessory-switched, so I ran a wire from the accessory relay in the relay compartment to a new relay behind the driver's seat. This new relay switches power directly from the battery (via two new wires that I terminated with "O" connectors and attached with the main battery wires), although hooking it up to the 12v post where all the brown wires go behind the passenger seat probably would have been cleaner. The 12v post is a bit tough to get to, though (you need to use one wrench from inside the car and one wrench from the engine compartment at the same time, which you can do if you have long arms). I went this route because I wanted to ensure that any power I was drawing wasn't going to interfere with any other part of the car, and that I wasn't going to over-burden the existing wires. The output of this relay is hooked up to a new six-fuse box that I put near the electronics tray behind the driver's seat, and from there I ran more wires to other parts of the car (accessory-switched headlights, heated seats, cigarette/USB power outlets under the knee pads, that kind of thing).

    You should be able to run the wires from the parcel shelf to the dummy switch without removing the center console, but it may be easier if you do take it out. It'll also make it easier to run wires from the relay compartment to the dummy switch, if you decide to tap power from there.

    -- Joe

  3. #3
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    Does your car have a manual transmission? If it does, you could make use of the pair of wires that are meant for the light bulb underneath the PRND21 shifter plate in the automatics. Manual trans cars don't have the light bulb, but the wires are still there. They're about 3 inches in front of that dummy switch location so super easy to extend them into a switch that then comes out the other side and runs along with the other wires under the centre console back towards the coin tray. You could route them right along with the throttle cable across the parcel shelf board and then have them deke up at that back board and do with them as you please for connecting to the flux capacitor. That'd the simplest in my opinion and that power source is switched with the ignition so bonus there too.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  4. #4
    Desert DeLorean Driver burch's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys!

    Joe: Debating right now if I want this always-on like the existing outlet or not. Leaning towards always available, since it will be switched anyway.

    Jonathan: 6631 is an automatic, so no dice for me there. That would have been the perfect spot though!

  5. #5
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    The LGW wire for the selector lamp is switched. You can tap it and a ground wire at ether window switch right there...
    For always available, you could feed the port power from the back somewhere, then ground it with a window switch ground, through the new switch.

  6. #6
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    I setup something like this shortly after I got my car last year. I didn't want to do anything to the car that wouldn't be easily reversible, and I wasn't familiar enough with it at that point to take any risks messing with the wiring. I bought this battery powered flux capacitor on Amazon. It has LED lights powered by 3 AA batteries, so you'd have to run it for a few days to kill the batteries.

    I opened the flux capacitor case and wired in a quick-connect wire, and ran it through a hole I drilled in the back of the case. I just put it in line with the existing power switch. I ran the other end of the quick-connect to a spare window switch on the console. Now I can turn it on and off at the console and when I need to take out the flux capacitor I just pop the quick-connect and take it out. The best part is that there is no risk of bumping the switch and killing my car battery.

    For kicks I used a vinyl cutter to make an label for the switch (still haven't gotten around to making a new label for the defrost switch).

    switch.jpg

    The only downside is the switch is in a location where it's easy to unintentionally turn on. Get used to frequently thinking you're being pulled over

  7. #7
    Desert DeLorean Driver burch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    The LGW wire for the selector lamp is switched. You can tap it and a ground wire at ether window switch right there...
    For always available, you could feed the port power from the back somewhere, then ground it with a window switch ground, through the new switch.
    That might be the closest and simplest solution.

    I was also going to make a Flux label for my setup Yours looks great, CriticalB!

  8. #8
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    If your car has a retractable antennae the red power wire (after the in-line fuse) would be OK but it is powered all the time. Tap into it, run to a switch in the console, and then back to the outlet. You will also require a ground.
    David Teitelbaum

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