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Thread: Air Conditioning Fix

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2014

    Location:  Greencastle, PA

    Posts:    66

    My VIN:    Jan '82 #11153

    Air Conditioning Fix

    My air conditioning continually losses gas over about a month. I got a new compressor but the rest is original. Shops pull a vacuum test and can't find a leak. I think it my be the hoses. Also it has has been converted over to the other gas 134a.

    Is it possible to change out the 3 hoses with the body on?

    Do I really need to get a new condenser?

    Where is the best place to get the proper hoses?

    Thanks as always!!!

    Rick

  2. #2
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  CLE/PHX

    Posts:    2,359

    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Rick

    Our complete kit listed below is the only modern solution for the A/C system. Includes all hoses, connection points and required components for installation. Manufactured from materials allowing for the lowest permeation percentage possible. Also the only line kit that can be fed through the frame and required access points without adding additional leak prone connection points and or damaging the frame via prying on the body tub.

    Let us know if you have any other questions!

    http://www.deloreanindustries.com/a-...-kit-complete/

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

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    I was able to run the hoses though without separating the frame and body, although by "I" I mean "my friend who is a mechanic but not specifically one who works on DeLoreans". I used original-style hoses (so, single hoses, not split hoses with extra connectors) that DMC MW made for me to R134 spec.

    The trick is to jack the car up by the body, not the frame. This separates the frame and body JUST enough (without removing any bolts) to allow the hose connectors to slide through. However, many people have an aversion to jacking from the body for fear of damaging it or flexing something they shouldn't (I'm less concerned; I mean, there are jack points on the body, after all, but I admit I jack from the frame whenever possible). We didn't have to pry the frame, but we tapped the hose along with a mallet and a block of wood in a few places.

    DPI's kit would save you this trouble, I imagine, as they effectively come disassembled (you put he connectors on after you run the hoses through).

    -- Joe

  4. #4
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    I was able to run the hoses though without separating the frame and body, although by "I" I mean "my friend who is a mechanic but not specifically one who works on DeLoreans". I used original-style hoses (so, single hoses, not split hoses with extra connectors) that DMC MW made for me to R134 spec.

    The trick is to jack the car up by the body, not the frame. This separates the frame and body JUST enough (without removing any bolts) to allow the hose connectors to slide through. However, many people have an aversion to jacking from the body for fear of damaging it or flexing something they shouldn't (I'm less concerned; I mean, there are jack points on the body, after all, but I admit I jack from the frame whenever possible). We didn't have to pry the frame, but we tapped the hose along with a mallet and a block of wood in a few places.

    -- Joe
    + 1

    I didn't have to replace my hoses when I refurbed my original R12 system, but through my research, I know DMC makes new R134a barrier hoses to order. On their store, the 3 hoses just have an A after the part number, like so:

    1) compressor /accumulator hose: 100750A. $168.53
    2) compressor/condenser hose: 100748A. $162.36
    3) condenser evaporator hose: 110525A. $94.24
    Total: $425.13

    No crimping required to install the ends. I would suggest calling your nearest/favorite DMC location for details.

    I know a couple club cars installed one piece hoses without removing the body, just lifting by jack points like Joe said.

    Also, here's my refurb thread if it helps you out any with tools, other parts or techniques: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...rly-A-C-System
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  5. #5
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2018

    Location:  Haw River, NC

    Posts:    168

    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ricker View Post
    My air conditioning continually losses gas over about a month. I got a new compressor but the rest is original. Shops pull a vacuum test and can't find a leak. I think it my be the hoses. Also it has has been converted over to the other gas 134a.

    Is it possible to change out the 3 hoses with the body on?

    Do I really need to get a new condenser?

    Where is the best place to get the proper hoses?

    Thanks as always!!!

    Rick
    I recommend using Red Tek. Its compatible with R12 systems and works great. Thats what I have in my Delorean. You can get it on amazon and ebay

  6. #6
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2014

    Location:  Lebanon, Tennessee

    Posts:    323

    My VIN:    3294

    I'll second the recommendation of the new DPI hoses and fittings. I replaced all of my hoses two years ago with DPI's new one piece hoses, and they work fantastic. I had a leak in my system earlier this month, but it ended up being a loose fill cap on the compressor fittings not the new hoses.
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2015

    Location:  Novi, MI

    Posts:    219

    My VIN:    4665

    I agree on the DPI hoses, connectors, etc. No DIY instructions were included with my kit. Take good before photos of where all the connectors go and note the size of the hoses you are running and install them on the proper side of the car as they are not the same. I found all the installation information across several threads in this forum. bfloyd authored a thread here where I gleaned the most information.

    Did the work last spring, and was very pleased to find I still had AC when taking the car out of storage a few weeks ago. Success!

  8. #8
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

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    I'm using Rob Grady's hoses, simple to run up the frame and easy to install, nothing to crimp.
    -----Dan B.

  9. #9
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  CLE/PHX

    Posts:    2,359

    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Our lines do not require crimping.

  10. #10
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delorean Industries View Post
    Our lines do not require crimping.
    Josh, then what do you call the tool provided (with the green handles)? The point is that your solution requires the owner to attach the 2 barbed ends using 2 clamps per hose, whatever you want to call the clamping process. It is just semantics really.

    That’s fine, and to each their own, but I wouldn’t say that DPI has the “only modern solution”.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

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