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Thread: Hervey's Fuel Pump

  1. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Orlando

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    I replaced mine with the tuna can, shorten my hose, and run it straight down to the fuel tank. Now my fuel pump is running quite, not as hard and no kinking problem either.

  2. #12
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2011

    Location:  Las Vegas

    Posts:    2,503

    My VIN:    6585

    Quote Originally Posted by stevedmc View Post
    Not if your baffle is a tuna fish can or whatever it is Hervey is using.
    Between the two, stick with the Tuna Fish Can. It functions way better since it drains fuel out of the baffle slower, and it remains in place using the stock bolt in the fuel tank. If you don't get Hervey's baffle in perfectly, or ESPECIALLY if you over-tighten the large clamp on the Fuel Pump Boot & Cap you can tend to have starvation issues if you run the tank down low and take corners too hard (see below for more related details on this).

    The stock baffle is ideal however since it locates the pickup of fuel to the exact center of the tank. Move it back directly below the pump, and if you were low enough on fuel, and had the car at an extreme enough of an angle going downhill, you would encounter starvation issues. An extreme example sure, but one none the less.

    That's a great video, Martin. Though there is an even quicker and easier way to install the baffle. Assemble the Baffle until 1:40 into the video. Then just squeeze the sides and pop the bottom of the baffle off, but leave it in place attached to the tongue. Squeeze the whole assembly as shown to get it into the tank, and then just reach in with one hand to position the baffle and bottom and press it down against the bottom of the tank with the palm of your hand. Everything will snap right into place. Then all you've got to do is skip ahead to 4:06 and you're done.

    Also, DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE LARGE CLAMP THAT HOLDS THE FUEL PUMP BOOT & COVER IN PLACE! As you tighten the clamp, the boot & cover tend to pinch near the top, and the clamp creeps up. Once it barely starts doing this, as long as the boot and cap are snugly in place, you're done. You won't feel as much tension on the Hose Clamp Screw as you do when tightening a fuel or coolant line because there is so much more pliable rubber than normal. Aside from damaging your boot and cover, you may not get a 100% perfect seal in the summer time leading to fumes and wasted fuel. Of course if you go WAY too tight you'll just cause the clamp to pop-off right then and there. Just be mindful of this part and you won't have any worries.

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