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Thread: How to replace Radiator

  1. #1
    Senior Member Silverbullet's Avatar
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    How to replace Radiator

    Ok, I have replaced a lot of radiators on other cars, but I was looking for tips on replacing on the DeLorean. Best way to drain, any tips on getting in and out, and how to fill it back up, since it is way upfront... Any help or tips you have to offer would be appreciated

    Thanks,
    Craig

  2. #2
    Senior Member EdR5150's Avatar
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    I used some rope to weave in and out of the condenser, and in and out of the rock screen. That suspended the condenser nicely while swapping out the rad.
    Check that both fans are working while you're in there. It's also a good time to replace any original hoses.

    Jack up the rear end of the car when refilling, and bleeding the system. Bleed it by removing and reconnecting the hose at top passenger side of the radiator, and at the bleed screw at the water pump. There might be a small hose installed from the water pump that runs to the expansion tank, which eliminates the bleed screw, and auto-bleeds the system.
    Last edited by EdR5150; 07-04-2018 at 07:57 PM.
    ~Eddie, VIN 16908

  3. #3
    Daily Driver ssdelorean's Avatar
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    I've done this a couple times and it is way easier to remove the front sway bar and drop the radiator with the fans & shroud attached then to disconnect them and leave them there. Having a buddy there with you (one on each side of radiator to disconnect, lower & re-install) is also way easier than by yourself. I also tied the condenser up so it would not fall down while sitting overnight.

    You may want to shoot all of the bolts (shroud, air dam, radiator, etc.) with PB Blaster & let sit a while.
    Shannon Y
    www.ohiodeloreans.com
    www.facebook.com/ohiodeloreans
    ---
    1st angle drive - 58,027 miles (20 years) -- original
    2nd angle drive - 48,489 miles (21 years) -- original from donor
    3rd angle drive - 26,572 miles (2 years 3 months) -- DMCH
    4th angle drive - 21,988 miles (1 year 11 months) -- DMCH
    5th angle drive - 7,137 miles (10 months 2 days) -- DMCH
    6th angle drive - OVER 113,704 miles and counting (OVER 13 yr 1 month & counting) -- new Martin Gutkowski unit
    over 245K miles

  4. #4
    Senior Member Silverbullet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssdelorean View Post
    I've done this a couple times and it is way easier to remove the front sway bar and drop the radiator with the fans & shroud attached then to disconnect them and leave them there. Having a buddy there with you (one on each side of radiator to disconnect, lower & re-install) is also way easier than by yourself. I also tied the condenser up so it would not fall down while sitting overnight.

    You may want to shoot all of the bolts (shroud, air dam, radiator, etc.) with PB Blaster & let sit a while.
    Thanks, I am replacing the fans and shroud with 2 new lower amp 11" fans with shroud so the old ones have to come out as well.

    Did you have to jack up the rear end to re-fill fluid?

    Craig

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    You really should have a cooling system pressure tester to test for leaks and bleed the air. You can buy it or some stores lend them out. Dropping the sway bar allows you to remove the rad with the shroud and fans attached. Still have to disconnect the condenser coil and you will have to hold it up with some rope. Figure you will break most of those little bolts even with PB Blaster. If the coolant hoses are old and brittle you should replace them.
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    I second having a buddy to help. I also put anti-seize on all bolts so if I have to do this again in the future, hopefully everything will come apart a little bit easier. Oh, and you will absolutely break the rock screen bolts (if it's original). I thought I could soak them down in PB Blaster and slowly work them off a bit then back on. It seemed to work at first then they just broke off one by one. Had to buy a new rock screen.

  7. #7
    Daily Driver ssdelorean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverbullet View Post
    Thanks, I am replacing the fans and shroud with 2 new lower amp 11" fans with shroud so the old ones have to come out as well.

    Did you have to jack up the rear end to re-fill fluid?

    Craig
    The last time, no. It may help when re-filling depending upon how high you have your front end up on jacks/ramp. After re-filling I ran it up to temp and checked for leaks, then dropped down to ground and checked level in overflow tank when cool. I have the self bleeder add-on hose above the water pump so sitting level air bubbles will work their way out.


    Quote Originally Posted by Nate88 View Post
    I also put anti-seize on all bolts so if I have to do this again in the future, hopefully everything will come apart a little bit easier.
    Crap. I forgot to do that!

    Quote Originally Posted by Nate88 View Post
    Oh, and you will absolutely break the rock screen bolts (if it's original). I thought I could soak them down in PB Blaster and slowly work them off a bit then back on. It seemed to work at first then they just broke off one by one. Had to buy a new rock screen.
    I ended up snipping off a small vertical segment in my rock screen every where one of those bolts are located. That way I can get a small wrench/needle nose plyers thru the screen to hold on to the bolt head when removing/putting back on.
    Shannon Y
    www.ohiodeloreans.com
    www.facebook.com/ohiodeloreans
    ---
    1st angle drive - 58,027 miles (20 years) -- original
    2nd angle drive - 48,489 miles (21 years) -- original from donor
    3rd angle drive - 26,572 miles (2 years 3 months) -- DMCH
    4th angle drive - 21,988 miles (1 year 11 months) -- DMCH
    5th angle drive - 7,137 miles (10 months 2 days) -- DMCH
    6th angle drive - OVER 113,704 miles and counting (OVER 13 yr 1 month & counting) -- new Martin Gutkowski unit
    over 245K miles

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