Yes! I forgot about that completely. Same issue here and took a grinder to the back of the cover to fix it.
The interference was at the plug on the pump and I used a file on the corner of the plug body to help things fit but preserve the weatherpack design. This is the best pic that I have showing the mod:
Filed_FP_Connector.jpg
This was the situation after the July 1 car show:
Fuel_Sploosh.jpg
The offending hoses which started life completely flush against the hex section of the barbed fitting
Slipped_Fuel_Hoses.jpg
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Parker, TX
Posts: 731
My VIN: #1283
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4
http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com
I'm a fan of the original setup. It seems there are less parts than the new one that could potentially go wrong. I also have had great success with the original setup. I have over 216,000 miles on my car and am only on my 2nd fuel pump. On the flip side, I have replaced the fuel pump boot and cap about 3 times due to fatigue of the rubber and shinkage of the cap.
My first and original to the car fuel pump only buzzed on extremely hot days when getting down to a quarter tank. My replacement pump seems to buzz it normal temperatures but more so in the extreme heat.
Sometimes I get the seepage around the top of the boot and/or cap but that is usually due to over filling the tank and/or on hot to cold days where temps flux, the pressure expands the tank and it comes out at the weakest area. I have also had the tank leak out of the top one time removing it from winter storage out of the garage because of the pressure.
Shannon Y
www.ohiodeloreans.com
www.facebook.com/ohiodeloreans
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1st angle drive - 58,027 miles (20 years) -- original
2nd angle drive - 48,489 miles (21 years) -- original from donor
3rd angle drive - 26,572 miles (2 years 3 months) -- DMCH
4th angle drive - 21,988 miles (1 year 11 months) -- DMCH
5th angle drive - 7,137 miles (10 months 2 days) -- DMCH
6th angle drive - OVER 113,704 miles and counting (OVER 13 yr 1 month & counting) -- new Martin Gutkowski unit
over 245K miles
It's interesting people are having issues with the Gates Barricade fuel injection hose. I've been using it for a while now. I used to get this injection hose by Good Year, but O'reillys stopped carrying it. I have been using a GM fuel pump from AC Delco(#MU1777). It looks very similar to the unit that DMCH is using. My fuel sender is still good, so I am not using the built in float fuel sender. You can get the pump at AutoZone for around $180 with LIFETIME warranty. It seems to be holding up nicely. You will still need to buy a check valve, but you can get them for around $15.
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Last edited by Chris 16409; 07-11-2018 at 01:40 PM.
Chris Miles
For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California
Location: Mebane, NC
Posts: 346
My VIN: 06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a
Very interesting thoughts on both sides of the spectrum. Thank you!
Location: FL
Posts: 947
My VIN: Early
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3
I’m curious about the cause of this as well. How many times did you use Techron additive over the 2 years, or was it in Chevron fuel? These hoses are rated for bio fuels, but I wonder if the Techron is causing the issue?
I have been running the DMCH fuel module with Gates Barricade hoses since 2013 and, a new accumulator with these hoses since 2015 without any issues. However, I strictly use non-ethanol fuel.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
I bought a 6 pack of Techron in March 2016 and fed it in at high dosage levels (one per tank). A bad turbo rebuild led to prolonged oil injection. This was a long-term strategy after a very thorough top-end cleaning.
I'm sure there was fuel w/ techron sitting in the lines for prolonged periods.
Interesting here:
http://www.napabeltshose.com/~/media...20Brochure.pdf
So there it is - not recommended for barbed fittings.Q: What are the recommended clamps for fuel hose line?
A: J2044 is the SAE Quick Connect Coupling Specification for Liquid Fuel and Vapor/Emissions
Systems. Any quick connect, worm gear or spring-loaded mechanical couplings used
with Barricade should meet this spec. Beaded stems are recommended for rubber hose.
Barbed stems are for use with plastic tubing only, due to the sharp ferrules and serrated teeth
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection