Clutch replace

[Bitsyncmaster]

It took about 1.5 hours to get the transmission bolted back onto the engine. I could not find the torque spec for those 4 10mm bolts so I used 45 ft/lb. Those bolts are 10.9 rated so the torque may be a little more than 45 ft/lbs.

Note to others doing the transmission is you need to move the shift lever so you can push it in to clear the water pipes as you lift the transmission.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I forgot to mention that when I was installing the transmission, I had a problem pulling the last 3/8" inch up tight to the engine. What I did was install the four bolts (to the engine) finger tight and then "jiggle" the transmission just a little. I guess with the bolts installed it was enough to work the two guide pins into their holes.

[David T]

The main purpose of the guide pins is so you approach at the right angle. That last little bit is when you enter the pilot bearing and then the dowel pins. It also helps to put the transmission into gear so you can turn the input shaft to align the splines. The pilot tool centers the clutch plate but you must still align the splines into it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Went to install the brackets onto the rear of the transmission. The pivot bracket arm was very tight moving it so I took it apart. Looks like it was just the silver anti-seize grease that was causing the binding. I guess it's not a good idea to use that type of grease on a bronze bearing bolt.

Now how in the heck do those brackets install? The pivot bracket is easy to see where it mounts but the shift cable brackets don't make sense. I will try to find a drawing that shows the correct install.

[DMC-81]

Went to install the brackets onto the rear of the transmission. The pivot bracket arm was very tight moving it so I took it apart. Looks like it was just the silver anti-seize grease that was causing the binding. I guess it's not a good idea to use that type of grease on a bronze bearing bolt.

Now how in the heck do those brackets install? The pivot bracket is easy to see where it mounts but the shift cable brackets don't make sense. I will try to find a drawing that shows the correct install.

Dave,

Here are a couple pictures if they help any.





I used Rob Grady's recommended 50/50 mixture of moly grease and anti-seize on some transmission parts ( pivot ball, fork, TO bearing to input shaft tube, input shaft splines, Bellcrank ). Perhaps you can use it on the pivot bracket arm.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks. I did get all the brackets bolted down. It was the one that bolts with the long bolt that threw me.

Now for adjusting the shift cable. I guess I'm just going to have to hook it up and play with the adjustment till I get reverse and fifth gear. The push rod should not have change.

[DMC-81]

Thanks. I did get all the brackets bolted down. It was the one that bolts with the long bolt that threw me.

Now for adjusting the shift cable. I guess I'm just going to have to hook it up and play with the adjustment till I get reverse and fifth gear. The push rod should not have change.

Good to hear. Yes, that's a good approach.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got the transmission all bolted up. Think I stripped a starter bolt. Will need to pull the starter later and helicoil it. Need to put the parking brake cable back on, fill and bleed the clutch and put the axles back on (one needs a rebuild first).

[Bitsyncmaster]

I did a vacuum bleed on my clutch this morning. That just applies vacuum through a bottle to the slave bleeder until I got a few ounces of fluid in the bottle. Not sure how well it worked. Will test when I have the engine running.

When I press the clutch pedal by hand, it requires pressure and then about half way down the pressure required drops and the pedal moves easily to the floor. Not sure if this is normal because I've never really pressed it by hand before.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got the engine started and the clutch seems to work (no drive axles) so I can run through the gears......except reverse. So looks like I need to adjust the cable. Anyone know if it needs to be longer or shorter? I will find out if not.

Clutch seems to take hold close to the floor so I probably need to bleed it some more.

After the adjustment I only have to install the air deflectors and drive axles to finish the job. I should rebuild the one axle first. The other axle is new and I have the boots and grease for the old one.