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Thread: Clutch replace

  1. #81
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    That’s says .020 step. I can’t imagine .004 less causing a significant issue.
    Me either.
    .004 sounds more like a few teenager burnouts

    fwiw, I only posted the link because I didn't see an OEM spec in the thread...

  2. #82
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Me either.
    .004 sounds more like a few teenager burnouts

    fwiw, I only posted the link because I didn't see an OEM spec in the thread...
    I'm glad you found that spec. It's the only one that is documented.

    I ordered a hydraulic force gauge (used on Ebay) for $147 shipped. It's just a low profile cylinder/piston with a gauge calibrated to read in pounds (0 to 10,000 lbs.). You just place it between the press and unit to test and read the result. Not that I really need this but I love to test things. Anyway I can compare the centerforce static clamping force with the new pressure plate. Will also compare the force required to release the clutch.

    Would probably be a useful tool for the V8 guys testing their clutch components.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #83
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I'm glad you found that spec. It's the only one that is documented.

    I ordered a hydraulic force gauge (used on Ebay) for $147 shipped. It's just a low profile cylinder/piston with a gauge calibrated to read in pounds (0 to 10,000 lbs.). You just place it between the press and unit to test and read the result. Not that I really need this but I love to test things. Anyway I can compare the centerforce static clamping force with the new pressure plate. Will also compare the force required to release the clutch.

    Would probably be a useful tool for the V8 guys testing their clutch components.
    So what you are saying is, once you do your test, it will be for sale.


    Back to your original issue. You stated that it felt like the transmission went into to neutral. Did it stay like that all the way to a rolling stop, or did you by nature push on the clutch at some point? I've been trying to run through my head other possible scenarios. I can only think of 2 extremely remote possibilities. 1. partially stripped teeth on the input shaft coupler. 2. partially stripped outer axle stub shaft to hub assembly. The effect of the second one would disconnect or decouple one drive wheel, having an open differential will cause the disconnected half shaft to speed freely and the other wheel will see no power to it. It would be as if you shifted into neutral. Dave Swingle posted a photo several years back of car they got in the shop that suffered this bizarre failure, the teeth on the hub flanges were rusted and wore off.

    I had something like that happen on my 85 Audi Coupe. I was headed to work one early morning many years and all of sudden I lost power to the wheels with the car in gear. I pulled over to stop and investigate. With the car stopped and in gear idling, I get a look under the car and the Right half shaft was turning will the car sat motionless. Something let go in the outer CV joint assembly.
    Last edited by DMC5180; 08-04-2018 at 04:50 PM.
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    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #84
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    So what you are saying is, once you do your test, it will be for sale.


    Back to your original issue. You stated that it felt like the transmission went into to neutral. Did it stay like that all the way to a rolling stop, or did you by nature push on the clutch at some point? I've been trying to run through my head other possible scenarios. I can only think of 2 extremely remote possibilities. 1. partially stripped teeth on the input shaft coupler. 2. partially stripped outer axle stub shaft to hub assembly. The effect of the second one would disconnect or decouple one drive wheel, having an open differential will cause the disconnected half shaft to speed freely and the other wheel will see no power to it. It would be as if you shifted into neutral. Dave Swingle posted a photo several years back of car they got in the shop that suffered this bizarre failure, the teeth on the hub flanges were rusted and wore off.

    I had something like that happen on my 85 Audi Coupe. I was headed to work one early morning many years and all of sudden I lost power to the wheels with the car in gear. I pulled over to stop and investigate. With the car stopped and in gear idling, I get a look under the car and the Right half shaft was turning will the car sat motionless. Something let go in the outer CV joint assembly.
    Yes I would probably sell the force gauge after I play with it. I guess you could use it also to measure springs but your would need a safe fixture to to do that testing.

    I tried to shift into other gears but it never got any power to the wheels. After a short stop every worked fine for a mile or two going through all the gears normal and it all happening again. I really don't want to open the transmission if I don't have to since there are no leaks.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #85
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    All gears or no gears would indicate a single point failure. Either one of the two I mentioned fit that definition.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #86
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    I still can't imagine anything but the clutch system that would disengage and then engage that many times w/o raising hell.
    Anything else either has teeth, where at least one toothed part has to move off center for it to disengage, which you would hear and probably feel, OR, are permanent/solid, and once 'broke', would never look or act right again.

  7. #87
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Yup, hence the reason I said, “extremely remote possibility “

    Just spit balling ideas. I’m still with you on the clutch master piston seal covering the reservoir port. Either that or there is some weird obstruction blocking the vented reservoir cap the not allowing the system to breath.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  8. #88
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Yup, hence the reason I said, “extremely remote possibility “

    Just spit balling ideas. I’m still with you on the clutch master piston seal covering the reservoir port. Either that or there is some weird obstruction blocking the vented reservoir cap the not allowing the system to breath.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I welcome all ideas. I was also thinking if a gear or coupling was worn then I would have heard or felt noise and it would not return to normal. I did replace the seals in my master but don't remember if I had made a long trip after that. I also don't think I ever checked the pedal play after driving the car but would not think that would change. I'm planning on getting a new master after I get the car back together.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #89
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Yup, hence the reason I said, “extremely remote possibility “

    Just spit balling ideas. I’m still with you on the clutch master piston seal covering the reservoir port. Either that or there is some weird obstruction blocking the vented reservoir cap the not allowing the system to breath.
    I was with you brother.


    Dave, when you bled the slave, assuming it was right after coming to a stop and no one was pressing the pedal, did the fluid shoot out, or ??

  10. #90
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    I was with you brother.


    Dave, when you bled the slave, assuming it was right after coming to a stop and no one was pressing the pedal, did the fluid shoot out, or ??
    It was still a little dark but I think it just dripped a little when I opened the "bleeder". I have the Hervey extended bleeder so that could be done on the road.

    By the way here is a photo of my engine hold bar. So far this has worked out good because it keeps the engine right where it should be and no blocks under the car to get in the way. Also shown is how high it's jacked up. This did let me slide the transmission out the back.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 08-05-2018 at 05:08 PM.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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